https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=62.253.32.4&feedformat=atomDIYWiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T10:02:44ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.35.9https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Guttering&diff=2809Talk:Guttering2007-04-03T00:53:54Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>I've made some changes based on my recent experiences of, safely and easily, single-handedly removing rotten cast-iron gutter from my 1938 house and replacing it with plastic. (Maybe Victorian gutter was sterner stuff?)<br />
<br />
<br />
--[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 14:48, 31 March 2007 (BST)<br />
<br />
Some people have tried to remove gutter single handed and nearly landed themselves in hospital, so surely pointing this out is only wise.<br />
[[User:NT|NT]] 17:18, 31 March 2007 (BST)<br />
<br />
Sure: the article says<br />
:Gutter sections can be deceptively heavy, and care is needed in removal.<br />
- which I hope strikes the right balance between a heads-up warning and nannying "kids don't try this at home".<br />
<br />
--[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 17:35, 31 March 2007 (BST)<br />
<br />
<br />
Reason I changed the wording is that some iron gutters can simply knock a person clean off a ladder, which can be nasty. And I didnt think that take care really conveyed the potential problem. Hopefully whats there now will do.<br />
[[User:NT|NT]] 07:23, 2 April 2007 (BST)<br />
<br />
: Shouldn't be working off a ladder anyway! :-) --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 16:09, 2 April 2007 (BST)<br />
<br />
Sure, but IRL some will do so.<br />
[[User:62.253.32.4|62.253.32.4]] 01:53, 3 April 2007 (BST)</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Plumbing&diff=2246Plumbing2007-02-01T15:08:56Z<p>62.253.32.4: Copper plated steel & minor</p>
<hr />
<div>The art or science of conveying stuff around using pipes. Sometimes metaphorically cf.Internet Plumbing.<br />
<br />
The name derives from the Latin ''plumbum'' through OFr ''plomb'' meaning '''lead''' [ref SOED]. Nowadays lead is almost completely absent from pipework, although part of the traditional plumbing craft training is sheet leadwork.<br />
<br />
== Water ==<br />
In general ''''Plumbing'''' refers to hot and cold water systems.<br />
<br />
=== Hot Water ===<br />
Is made from cold water by <br />
[[Domestic Hot Water Systems]]<br />
=== Cold water ===<br />
is best for drinking<br />
<br />
== Gas ==<br />
Plumbing for Gas is more commonly referred to as ''''Gas Fitting'''' or ''''Gas Installation''''.<br />
It is regulated by law: specifically the Statutory Instrument known as the<br />
[http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1998/19982451.htm Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998]<br />
== Pipework ==<br />
=== Copper ===<br />
* Copper pipes are joined by soldering, using a compression fitting, or pushfit connectors. Some fittings for soldering come ready locaded with solder these are known as Yorkshire or Solder ring fittings.<br />
* Chromium plated copper pipe can connected either by removing the chromium or by using compression fittings which are also sold chrome plated. <br />
* When copper comes into damp cement, concrete or mortar it may be liable to corrode. This would seem to be related to the composition of the concrete etc: the [http://copper.org Copper Development Association] in an article "[http://copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/problem_embedding_copper_concrete.html Is There A Problem With Embedding Copper Tube In Concrete?]" states:<br />
<blockquote>According to the Portland Cement Association the interaction of copper with both dry and wet concrete should not cause a corrosion concern. However, copper should be protected when it comes in contact with concrete mixtures that contain components high in sulfur, such as cinders and fly-ash, which can create an acid that is highly corrosive to most metals including copper.<br />
</blockquote><br />
For this reason it is good practice to wrap the copper in PVC or grease impregnated (aka "Denso") tape. Specific [[regulations]] apply to copper pipe used for carrying gas under the [http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1998/19982451.htm Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations (1998)], and pipes buried in floor screeds.<br />
* Long runs of copper pipe in concrete are liable to break due to differential thermal expansion.<br />
* When cemented or plastered over, "Denso" tape or other flexible wrapping should be used to avoid expansion stresses.<br />
==== Fish ====<br />
* Fishtanks should not be filled with water from newly fitted copper piping, as water copper levels from new piping are generally high enough to kill fish.<br />
<br />
=== Plastic ===<br />
<br />
==== MDPE ====<br />
'''Medium Density PolyEthylene''' is coloured blue for water services or yellow for gas. Black MDPE is also found in older cold water service installations. It is available in inside diameters of 20, 25, 32mm and larger sizes. It is intended to be buried and should not be used for permanent installations where it is exposed to sunlight as UV will degrade the material (although blue MDPE is often run on the surface for temporary installations on building sites etc.) It is usually used for incoming services. It is not suitable for hot water. It is invariably supplied in rolls of various lengths.<br />
<br />
==== PEX and PB ====<br />
'''cross-linked polyetheylene (PEX)''' and '''Polybutylene (PB)''' are made to the same outside diameters as copper pipes (but have a smaller inside diameters). It is commonly available in diameters of 15mm and 22mm, with 10mm and 28mm also found. <br />
<br />
PB is less springy than PEX, though some makes are more flexible than others. <br />
<br />
It can be used for hot and hold water services including central heating.<br />
<br />
'''Barrier''' pipes have a metallic film sandwiched between inner and outer PB or PEX layers to reduce permeability of the pipe to gases, especially oxygen which is responsible for corrosion in heating systems. See [[Central Heating]] for further discussion.<br />
<br />
They are usually supplied in a coil but some can be bought in straight lengths.<br />
<br />
MDPE, PEX and PB pipes require the use of the correct support stiffeners (some are stainless steel others are plastic) at every end. These keep the pipe from pulling out of fittings.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== ABS and PVC ====<br />
<br />
'''Acetyl Butyl Styrene''' and '''Poly Vinyl Chloride''' pipes are used in 'solvent weld' systems for overflow, waste and drainage pipes. Waste sizes are nominally 32mm, 40mm and 50mm but are actually larger than nominal and not interchangeable with push-fit (although compression fittings can be used with either type). ABS and PVC are also used for rainwater and soil, vent and drain pipes. Soil, vent and drain sizes are interchangeable with push-fit pipe. Overflow (21.5mm nominal) is sometimes found in slightly larger sizes in old pipework which can make extension of existing overflow systems with new materials difficult.<br />
<br />
==== PolyPropylene ====<br />
<br />
Polypropylene is not solvent-weldable. It us used in overflow, waste and soil, vent and drainage pipework. PP waste pipes are made to actual sizes of 32mm, 40mm and 50mm, to be joined by push-fit or compression fittings.<br />
<br />
=== Iron/Steel ===<br />
* These are used for compressed air and still used for gas supply pipes, and for heating pipework in larger commercial and industrial systems. They are usually only found in wet pipework in older domestic installations.<br />
* They are installed by cutting stock tube to length and then threading the ends with a die. <br />
* A selection of fittings are available for joining the threaded ends together. <br />
* The threads conform to an international standard that is a metric adoption of the imperial British Standard Pipe. <br />
* The letter R designates this so R0.75 means a 3/4" BSP thread. <br />
* The threads can be cut onto a slightly tapered pipe end or parallel. <br />
* Cast Iron is used for older waste and drainage pipes. <br />
<br />
=== Stainless Steel ===<br />
This is available in different sizes and thicknesses:<br />
* A direct substitute for copper pipe (but can only be joined with compression fittings). This is found in some domestic installations dating from the time of a copper shortage during the late 1970s.<br />
* Equivalent to mild steel pipe. Used when greater strength or corrosion resistance than steel is required. Used when food grade hygiene standards are needed.<br />
<br />
===Copper plated Steel===<br />
Formerly used as copper pipe substitute in the 70s. The finish is copper but the pipe is magnetic.<br />
<br />
=== Lead ===<br />
<br />
Lead piping is no longer installed although some is still found in service. It is found particularly in water pipes in pre-1960 houses, often in the pipe from the street to the main indoor stopcock, and sometimes in tails to taps and WCs etc. It is also sometimes found in connections into and/or out of gas meters.<br />
<br />
==== Health ====<br />
Water running in lead pipe can [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leaching leach] the metal producing significant levels of lead in the water, causing a heaalth hazard to those ingesting the water (through drinking it or using it for cooking). Naturally occurring chemicals in some sources of water can exacerbate this problem. It used to be common wisdom to run the water for a minute or so first thing in the morning after water had been standing in the pipes overnight, before filling a kettle (or otherwise drawing the water for drinking). <br />
<br />
In [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water hard water] areas however scale usually forms inside the pipes and prevents water contacting the lead directly, reducing leaching to low and generally not problematic levels.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Plumbing]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Shelves&diff=2245Shelves2007-02-01T14:57:32Z<p>62.253.32.4: asstd minor</p>
<hr />
<div>As the stereotypical subject of the occasional DIYer, shelving can not be overlooked on a DIY wiki.<br />
<br />
Shelving is divided into 3 main sections:<br />
<br />
<br />
==Materials==<br />
===Chipboard===<br />
Also known as particleboard<br />
* 12mm<br />
** cheap<br />
** liable to sag<br />
<br />
* 18mm<br />
** stronger than 12mm chip,<br />
** less sag prone<br />
<br />
===Laminated chip===<br />
eg formica, melamine, imitation woods<br />
* Most popular choice<br />
* Available in white & imitation wood finishes, and occasionally in black & some other plain colours.<br />
* Prone to sag over time<br />
* Edge and corners of veneer prone to lift or break off in time<br />
* Not likely to last a lifetime.<br />
<br />
===Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF)===<br />
Smoother finish than "raw" chipboard especially on cut edges.<br />
MDF has little strength for a given weight so spans have to be short and sections of the material have to be thick to reduce sagging, or edges can be reinforced with thicker wood to give rigidity. The fine dust produced by cutting and especially sanding this material may be irritating to the lungs. MDF is available in veneered finishes.<br />
<br />
MDF is quite vulnerable to water damage, placing cups on it with the odd drip is enough to ruin the surface over time.<br />
<br />
===Natural Wood===<br />
e.g. pine, oak, etc.<br />
* Good looking, though not everyone likes wood<br />
* Good wear characteristics<br />
* To avoid staining it needs finishing with varnish, wax, oil or paint.<br />
* Wood plank is prone to cupping<br />
* Shelving made from alternately oriented narrow strips glued together more or less eliminates the risk of cupping. Sold as pineboard, and preferable to plank wood.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Blockboard===<br />
<br />
Veneered Blockboard<br />
<br />
===Ply===<br />
A strong and stable shelving material, but more cost than the above options.<br />
<br />
Birch ply with many laminations of equal thickness is better suited for shelves where the edges are likely to be visible. It is more expensive than normal construction-grade ply e.g. £33 for 2400 * 1200 * 18mm compared to about £25 for the same size fair-faced WBP ply.<br />
<br />
If not painted, ply may have the striped edge stained darker to make the striping less noticeable.<br />
<br />
===Sheet Metal===<br />
<br />
===Plastic===<br />
Sheet plastic makes a weak shelving material, requiring support on all 4 sides, and is not recommended due to poor strength to cost ratio and uninspired looks.<br />
<br />
===Hollow Doors===<br />
Lightweight veneered interior doors make effective large shelves or desktops. The corrugated cardboard core gives them a relatively high strength per weight.<br />
<br />
However they are large, and are not simple to cut down to lesser shelf depth (door width) without causing significant damage or loss of strength.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Fixing==<br />
===Fixing types===<br />
See [[Brackets]]<br />
====Metal Brackets====<br />
====Wood Brackets====<br />
====Adjustable Brackets====<br />
====Wood frame====<br />
====Suspension====<br />
<br />
===Span===<br />
The wider the span between supports, the less load the shelf will support, and the more likely it is to sag.<br />
<br />
===Reinforcement===<br />
====Back Bar====<br />
A strip of wood under the back edge of the shelf provides support for a 3rd side of the wood, increasing overall strength and reducing sag.<br />
====Front Bar====<br />
<br />
<br />
==Size & Sag==<br />
A deflection of 1/32 inch per foot or more is noticeable.<br />
<br />
A loaded bookshelf may support in the region of 10kg per foot of length.<br />
<br />
Wood and chipboard typically sag 50% more than initial sag over time.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Calculating Sag===<br />
[http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm Sagulator sag calculator]<br />
<br />
link to a more accurate calculator<br />
<br />
<br />
==Unusual shelves==<br />
===Yardstick===<br />
A yardstick makes an unusual shelf, suitable for displaying cards etc.<br />
<br />
===Gutter===<br />
A strip of plastic guttering can be used as a shelf. Making it look good might be a challenge!<br />
<br />
===Cardboard===<br />
Cardboard strip is folded 3 times to make 4 long sides, and folded so 2 sides overlap, giving a stiff triangular section strip.<br />
<br />
Not the most elegant solution, but free lightweight shelving strip is useful for some, and may be painted with oil based paints to make it look ok.<br />
<br />
===4mm shelf===<br />
A pretty shelf may be made from 4mm pine 4" deep supported by small decorative brackets every 18". Such shelves are obviously very lightweight and should only be used for light objects. Books would be too heavy for a 4mm shelf.<br />
<br />
These nicknack shelves can go where there is not enough space to warrant a larger shelf, and are quickly made from leftovers.<br />
<br />
Such shelves may also be used for storage of the smallest and lightest of diy supplies.<br />
<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
[[Brackets]]<br />
[[Shelving Racks]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Keywords: shelf shelves shelving<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Storage]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]<br />
[[Category:Wood]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Shelves&diff=2244Shelves2007-02-01T14:46:05Z<p>62.253.32.4: MDF vulernable to water</p>
<hr />
<div>Shelves<br />
<br />
<br />
As the stereotypical subject of the occasional DIYer, shelving can not be overlooked on a DIY wiki.<br />
<br />
Shelving is divided into 3 main sections:<br />
==Materials==<br />
===chipboard===<br />
Also known as particleboard<br />
<br />
====12mm====<br />
* cheap<br />
* liable to sag<br />
<br />
====18mm====<br />
* stronger than 12mm chip,<br />
* less sag prone<br />
<br />
===Laminated chip===<br />
eg formica, melamine, imitation woods<br />
* Most popular choice<br />
* prone to sag over time<br />
* edge and corners of veneer prone to lift or break off in time<br />
* not likely to last a lifetime.<br />
<br />
===Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF)===<br />
Smoother finish than "raw" chipboard especially on cut edges.<br />
MDF has little strength for a given weight so spans have to be short and sections of the material have to be thick to reduce sagging, or edges can be reinforced with thicker wood to give rigidity. The fine dust produced by cutting and especially sanding this material may be irritating to the lungs. MDF is available in veneered finishes.<br />
<br />
MDF is quite vulnerable to water damage, placing cups on it with the odd drip is enough to ruin the surface over time.<br />
<br />
===Natural Wood===<br />
e.g. pine etc.<br />
* good looking, though some don't like wood much<br />
* good wear characteristics<br />
* To avoid staining it needs finishing with varnish, wax, oil or paint.<br />
* Wood plank is prone to cupping<br />
* Shelving made from alternately oriented narrow strips glued together more or less eliminates the risk of cupping. Sold as pineboard, and preferable to plank wood.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Blockboard===<br />
<br />
Veneered Blockboard<br />
<br />
===Ply===<br />
A strong and stable shelving material, but more cost than the above options.<br />
Birch ply with many laminations of equal thickness is better suited for shelves where the edges are likely to be visible. It is more expensive than normal construction-grade ply e.g. £33 for 2400 * 1200 * 18mm compared to about £25 for the same size fair-faced WBP ply.<br />
<br />
===Sheet Metal===<br />
<br />
===Plastic===<br />
Sheet plastic makes a weak shelving material, requiring support on all 4 sides, and is not recommended due to poor strength to cost ratio and uninspired looks.<br />
<br />
===Hollow Doors===<br />
Lightweight veneered interior doors make effective large shelves or desktops. The corrugated cardboard core gives them a relatively high strength per weight.<br />
<br />
However they are large, and are not simple to cut down to lesser depth without causing significant damage or loss of strength.<br />
<br />
==Fixing==<br />
===Fixing types===<br />
====Metal Brackets====<br />
====Wood Brackets====<br />
====Adjustable Brackets====<br />
====Wood frame====<br />
====Suspension====<br />
<br />
===Span===<br />
The wider the span between supports, the less load the shelf will support, and the more likely it is to sag.<br />
<br />
===Reinforcement===<br />
====Back Bar====<br />
A strip of wood under the back edge of the shelf provides support for a 3rd side of the wood, increasing overall strength and reducing sag.<br />
====Front Bar====<br />
<br />
<br />
==Size & Sag==<br />
A deflection of 1/32 inch per foot or more is noticeable.<br />
<br />
A loaded bookshelf may support in the region of 10kg per foot of length.<br />
<br />
Wood and chipboard typically sag 50% more than initial sag over time.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Calculating Sag===<br />
[http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm Sagulator sag calculator]<br />
<br />
link to a more accurate calculator<br />
<br />
<br />
==Unusual shelves==<br />
===Yardstick===<br />
A yardstick makes an unusual shelf, suitable for displaying cards etc.<br />
<br />
===Gutter===<br />
A strip of plastic guttering can be used as a shelf. Making it look good might be a challenge!<br />
<br />
===Cardboard===<br />
Cardboard strip is folded 3 times to make 4 long sides, and folded so 2 sides overlap, giving a stiff triangular section strip.<br />
<br />
Not the most elegant solution, but free lightweight shelving strip is useful for some, and may be painted with oil based paints to make it look ok.<br />
<br />
===4mm shelf===<br />
A pretty shelf may be made from 4mm pine 4" deep supported by small decorative brackets every 18". Such shelves are obviously very lightweight and should only be used for light objects. Books would be too heavy for a 4mm shelf.<br />
<br />
These nicknack shelves can go where there is not enough space to warrant a larger shelf, and are quickly made from leftovers.<br />
<br />
Such shelves may also be used for storage of the smallest and lightest of diy supplies.<br />
<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
[[Brackets]]<br />
[[Shelving Racks]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Keywords: shelf shelves shelving<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Storage]]<br />
[[Category:Projects]]<br />
[[Category:Wood]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Rewiring_Tips&diff=1993Talk:Rewiring Tips2007-01-09T15:39:54Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>Whew - a lot to digest in one page!<br />
<br />
How about splitting it into sections, maybe<br />
<br />
* general layout of installation (CU, rings, radials, outside feed etc)<br />
* power - how many sockets to install etc<br />
* lighting - choice of types etc<br />
<br />
Just my £0.02'orth :-) --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 12:46, 18 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
Will think about that one later.<br />
<br />
Have changed the outdoor MICC sentence, as all outdoor cables are prone to failure from water ingress, the difference with MICC is its hygroscopic, ie will suck water vapour in out of the air if it gets the chance.<br />
[[User:NT|NT]] 15:47, 4 January 2007 (GMT)<br />
<br />
Categorising sounds like good formatting in principle, but what when something falls into 2 or more categories?<br />
[[User:NT|NT]] 08:48, 5 January 2007 (GMT)<br />
<br />
I know, that's bound to crop up. I guess you just put it in one and have a link from another. --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 13:22, 5 January 2007 (GMT)<br />
<br />
Or perhaps have another section (eg 'misc') for pieces that are relevant to more than one category, and a link from each of those cats to misc.<br />
[[User:NT|NT]] 06:56, 6 January 2007 (GMT)<br />
<br />
Why the didactic "dimmed PIR lights are a gross waste" statement. This is surely opinion ?<br />
<br />
Dimmed PIR lights: May I suggest we discuss it on uk.d-i-y, because then what we say will be subject to input, correction, etc from other regulars. I'm happy to support my belief that they are a truly bad idea, but would rather others had the opportunity to correct if I'm wrong etc. Would sooner this article represent considered input of many members instead of mine and yours alone.<br />
[[User:62.253.32.4|62.253.32.4]] 15:39, 9 January 2007 (GMT)</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Thermal_Stores_and_Heat_Banks&diff=1804Talk:Thermal Stores and Heat Banks2007-01-01T02:04:12Z<p>62.253.32.4: Category DHW or domestic hot water</p>
<hr />
<div>Created article<br />
<br />
Need better pictures and to expand text.<br />
<br />
[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 04:31, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
== Category DHW or domestic hot water ==<br />
<br />
Maybe we should decide on one name for this category. The category 'Domestic Hot Water Systems' is already in use in several other articles, DHW is not. DHW will be found using the search box, so I'm not sure we need DHW as a category.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Level&diff=1803Level2007-01-01T02:00:01Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Levels''' are used to accurately determine horizontal, vertical and other angles.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Level Types=<br />
<br />
==Spirit Level==<br />
The most common and well known level of all.<br />
<br />
Only one DIYer is known to be unfamiliar with this common tool, Mr Nseowo.<br />
* http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/shropshire/3142762.stm<br />
* http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&rls=en&hs=JXB&q=nseowo+extension&btnG=Search<br />
<br />
It is possible for a knock to misalign the vials, so a spirit level should be tested if dropped.<br />
<br />
Spirit levels are also available with several vials, enabling reading of various angles close to horizontal, eg 1 degree, 2 degrees etc<br />
<br />
<br />
==[[Card Level]]==<br />
An uncommon but versatile level capable of finding all angles.<br />
* Determines all angles<br />
* Easily improvised<br />
* Light weight and compact<br />
* Affected by wind<br />
<br />
<br />
==Plumb Bob==<br />
The Plumb bob is a simple weight on a string. The weight has a pointed bottom, and indicates the vertical.<br />
* Affected to wind<br />
* Does not settle instantly<br />
* Easily improvised<br />
<br />
<br />
==Laser Level==<br />
A laser level can project a vertical or horizontal line of light onto the workpiece. This makes level visible without needing a hand to hold the level, and without marking the workpiece.<br />
<br />
However this does not necessarily make things easier or quicker due to setup time. IME a long spirit level is often quicker to use.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Other one==<br />
Set square with mini plumb bob in it, I forget the name<br />
<br />
<br />
==Water Level==<br />
This is a flexible tube containing water. Wherever the ends of the tube are placed, water at both ends will settle at the same height.<br />
<br />
Useful for finding level over a long distance.<br />
<br />
May be improvised using either clear tubing or a hosepipe with a short distance of clear tube or a funnel at each end.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Line Level==<br />
A line level is a spirit level vial that is hooked onto a horizontal line. The level must be attached at the centre of the line otherwise considerable errors are introduced. Uneven line surface can also affect accuracy in some cases. For these reasons it is not as accurate as rigid spirit levels.<br />
* Spans long distances<br />
* Accuracy variable<br />
* Indication is generally far from where the line ends are being held<br />
<br />
<br />
==Post Level==<br />
This is a 3 vial L-shaped spirit level that determines all 3 axes of level for vertical posts. Used for fencing.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Testing a Level=<br />
==Spirit Level==<br />
Spirit levels dont always read correctly. How to test:<br />
<br />
Place level on a surface that is level or close to level. For precision, adjust or pack the surface so it reads level.<br />
<br />
Turn the level round. It should read the same each way round. If it does, it reads correctly. <br />
<br />
If it doesn't indicate the same each way, the vial position can usually be adjusted. Meanwhile the correct indication is halfway between the 2 spirit level indications.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Card Level==<br />
The same approach is used as with a spirit level, take a reading, turn the card round and read again. Both readings should be identical. If not, the card can have a corner snipped to level it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Plumb Bob==<br />
A plumb bob will always read level providing the weight is symmetrical. Improvised plumb bobs are the only ones in need of testing.<br />
<br />
There are 2 ways to test plumb bobs.<br />
# Determine vertical level by another accurate means, and compare the plumb bob's reading<br />
#Set the plumb bob weight to slowly rotate without it swinging. This is done by twisting the string so that horizontal swing settles before rotation settles. Once swing has settled, the indication should not move at all with rotation.<br />
<br />
<br />
=See also=<br />
[[Card Level]]<br />
<br />
[[Cateogry:Tools]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Adhesive&diff=1801Adhesive2007-01-01T00:47:35Z<p>62.253.32.4: tidying up categories, adhesive -> adhesives</p>
<hr />
<div>For a general and scholarly article about Adhesives see Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adhesives<br />
<br />
= Adhesives By Purpose =<br />
<br />
== Wood ==<br />
* PVA<br />
* Animal<br />
* Resin<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* Acrylic<br />
see [[Wood glues]]<br />
<br />
== Metal ==<br />
* Epoxy<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* Contact<br />
<br />
== Plastics - PVC, ABS ==<br />
* Solvent glues<br />
* Solvents<br />
* Household gloss paint will glue pvc<br />
<br />
== Plastics - hard ==<br />
* Epoxy<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== Plastics - polyethylene, nylon ==<br />
* no glue can stick these directly<br />
* flamed polythene and nylon can be glued<br />
* melting the surfaces together also works, if both materials being joined are the same substance.<br />
<br />
== Fabric ==<br />
* Latex, eg Copydex<br />
<br />
== Paper & Card ==<br />
* PVA<br />
* Gum<br />
* Glue sticks (eg Pritt-stick) ([[PVA]] or PVP)<br />
* Spray-type photo fixing etc<br />
* Wallpaper paste<br />
* Starch<br />
<br />
==Oil lines==<br />
* Red hermetite<br />
<br />
==Plaster==<br />
to consolidate & stabilise loose plaster:<br />
* dilute PVA<br />
* limewash<br />
<br />
= Adhesives By Type =<br />
<br />
== cyanoacrylate (superglue)==<br />
== 2 part epoxy ("Araldite" etc)==<br />
* Tough<br />
* chemical resistant.<br />
* Some types are heat resistant, some not. The ones that aren't may claim they are on the basis that they survive heat, even if they do lose all strength when hot.<br />
* Car accessory shops sell tougher epoxies than Araldite.<br />
* Available as liquid resin tubes, putty sticks, or in standard building cartridges with automatic mixing nozzles.<br />
* Heating the mix (in tinfoil on a low ring) until runny makes it set very much faster. Don't overheat it.<br />
* vulnerable to uv<br />
<br />
== hot-melt glue==<br />
* Almost instant setting <br />
* Handy for creating structures where glue needs to set at each stage before the next can be glued<br />
* not the strongest most durable glue<br />
<br />
* Most common hot melt glue stick chemistry is amorphous polypropylene plus tackifiers and fillers. Several other chemistries also exist.<br />
* Polyethylene requires temperatures above those of standard retail glue guns to work, if you put polythene in an ordinary glue gun it will just soften enough to block it.<br />
<br />
Pdf hot melt glue datasheets:<br />
http://www.bostik-us.com/products/index.asp?fa=categories&divisionId=3&categoryId=54<br />
<br />
== [[PVA]]==<br />
[[PVA]] has a wide range of uses in building and DIY.<br />
<br />
* There are White and yellow types of PVA<br />
<br />
* A good wood glue<br />
<br />
* Reduces permeability of cement mortar & increases adhesion<br />
<br />
* Use as a plaster size<br />
<br />
* softens when wet<br />
<br />
* Exterior grade PVAs available, but are not waterproof<br />
<br />
== Acrylic mastic type==<br />
(e.g. "solvent-free Gripfill/No-more-nails/etc")<br />
==Caulk==<br />
Caulk is a flexible acrylic formula<br />
<br />
Paint sticks to caulk<br />
== Solvent based building adhesives==<br />
(Gripfill etc)<br />
== ? type==<br />
"Sticks like SH!T" etc<br />
== Polyurethane==<br />
== Polyester resin==<br />
* tough<br />
* sticks a wide range of materials<br />
* used in fibreglass work<br />
* available in clear or colours<br />
* car body filler is polyester resin plus fillers<br />
<br />
== Silicone==<br />
* Silicone sealant is a satisfactory glue in shear, but has little strength in tension.<br />
* Silicone is used to glue glass aquaria together, but this is a tougher formula than builders' silicone sealant.<br />
* Building silicones are RTV, room temperature vulcanised.<br />
<br />
== Solvent cements==<br />
eg perspex in acetone<br />
== Tile adhesives==<br />
* Cement based most popular<br />
See BAL Adhesives guide for information on different types<br />
<br />
==Wallpaper Paste==<br />
how long will it store once mixed?<br />
==Starch==<br />
* Glue for wallpaper, card & paper.<br />
* To make starch glue, boil some starch (eg flour, oats, etc) until it changes from white to semi-clear. Add a little alum to prevent mould if you're not using it immediately.<br />
* To make a starch gluestick, parboil a potato. Suitable for gluing paper, just wipe with the potato and press together. Will not store.<br />
<br />
=Adhesive Selector Grid=<br />
Which adhesive is best for any 2 given materials?<br />
<br />
http://www.elessar.org.uk/adhesives.pdf<br />
<br />
http://www.thistothat.com/<br />
<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
In the great majority of cases, to obtain a good bond surfaces should be prepared so they are:<br />
* clean<br />
* dry<br />
* loose or flaky material removed<br />
* degreased<br />
<br />
<br />
=Moulding tools=<br />
Sometimes adhesives need to be moulded.<br />
<br />
Fugee & Fugenboy<br />
<br />
PTFE<br />
<br />
Polythene<br />
<br />
=Fillers=<br />
Fillers are used in gapfilling adhesives to reduce cost. They do affect the adhesive properties to some extent.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Suppliers=<br />
* Builder's merchants<br />
* diy sheds<br />
* car accessory shops<br />
* http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
[[PVA]]<br />
<br />
Book: 'On boat construction' by Gougeon Brothers is an expert guide to use of epoxies.<br />
<br />
BAL Adhesives tables<br />
<br />
[[Category:Adhesives]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Papercrete&diff=1798Papercrete2006-12-31T15:06:49Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Papercrete''' is a fairly new low cost mortar mix for making blocks, panels, poured walls, roofs, plasters, renders, pond liners, etc<br />
<br />
A good starting point, with lots of pretty pics is here:<br />
<br />
http://www.livinginpaper.com/</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Carpet&diff=1794Carpet2006-12-30T17:13:21Z<p>62.253.32.4: asstd</p>
<hr />
<div>=Carpet Types=<br />
<br />
==Backing types==<br />
* foam rubber<br />
** feels soft underfoot<br />
** non-shrinking<br />
** a layer of newspaper stops it sticking to the floor<br />
* hessian<br />
** prone to shrink during cleaning<br />
** prone to rot in damp locations<br />
** benefits from underlay<br />
* felt<br />
** a lower cost backing<br />
* sheet plastic<br />
** waterproof, found on 'bathroom' carpets<br />
<br />
<br />
==Pile types==<br />
* wool<br />
* wool/synthetic blend<br />
* synthetic<br />
* loop<br />
* cut pile<br />
* shag<br />
<br />
Axminster<br />
<br />
Wilton<br />
<br />
Axminster & Wilton are manufacturing methods, not brand names.<br />
<br />
Flotex<br />
<br />
carpet tiles<br />
<br />
<br />
=Quality=<br />
Quality of carpet depends on<br />
* Pile density<br />
** the more...<br />
* pile material mixture<br />
** 70/30 and 80/20...<br />
** 100% synthetic can generate static in summer<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
<br />
=Buying carpet=<br />
==New==<br />
Beware of the travelling sellers that show good quality specimens then fit cheaper carpet, claiming its what you ordered and paid for.<br />
==Used==<br />
==Offcuts==<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet fitting=<br />
* gripper rod<br />
** Method of choice for most carpet fitting jobs<br />
<br />
* tacks<br />
** cheapie method<br />
** results in uneven carpet edges<br />
** small chance of tack impaling a wire or pipe<br />
<br />
* adhesive<br />
<br />
* stair rods<br />
** a known risk factor for stair falls<br />
<br />
* stretching<br />
** not needed for most domestic carpets<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet and Downlighters=<br />
Mixing downlighting with carpets is a recipe for very poor energy efficiency. The darker the carpet, the worse the result.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet Styles=<br />
When you wish to create a certain style<br />
<br />
*Arabic<br />
<br />
*Minimalist<br />
<br />
* Practical<br />
** soft patterns, never plain<br />
** pile is mixed colours rather than areas of single colour<br />
** mid to light colours in dull rooms<br />
** fairly dark colours if very heavy use anticipated<br />
** 70/30 wool synthetic blend for minimum wear<br />
<br />
*Victorian<br />
**deep reds, blues, <br />
** Flower patterns<br />
** Geometric patterns<br />
** Fine but fairly bold repetitive patterns<br />
** Rugs and runners rather than fitted carpets<br />
** Uncarpeted wooden floor borders often painted black<br />
** Brass stair rods<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet in Vehicles=<br />
* vehicle carpet is prone to condensation<br />
* Hessian backing does not last as well when damp is enountered<br />
* synthetic pile is most tolerant of damp.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet in Bathrooms=<br />
Unpopular due to hygiene issues<br />
<br />
If you want bathroom carpet, a carpet cleaner would be a good idea too.<br />
<br />
Pick a non-shrink backing<br />
<br />
Waterproof backing for suspended timber floors<br />
<br />
Permeable backing for masonry floors with no dpc<br />
<br />
<br />
=[[Carpet Cleaning]]=<br />
<br />
<br />
=Repair & Maintenance=<br />
==Areas of flattened pile==<br />
Spray with water. Brush vigorously until pile stands up. Leave to dry<br />
==Fraying or shedding edges==<br />
===To stop deterioration===<br />
* hoover clean<br />
* cut away stragglers<br />
* apply latex glue to backing, eg Copydex.<br />
===To repair===<br />
* cut out a rectangle of damage<br />
* cut a replacement piece of carpet from somewhere inconspicuous, eg under a sofa<br />
* Fix patch to trimmed damaged area using carpet tape<br />
* Or glue patch in place using latex<br />
* Apply latex to all cut edges to prevent fraying.<br />
<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
[[Cleaning FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Carpet cleaning thread on ukdiy</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Carpet&diff=1793Carpet2006-12-30T16:53:39Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* See Also */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Carpet Types=<br />
<br />
==Backing types==<br />
* foam rubber<br />
** feels soft underfoot<br />
** non-shrinking<br />
* hessian<br />
** prone to shrink during cleaning<br />
** prone to rot in damp locations<br />
* felt<br />
** a lower cost backing<br />
* sheet plastic<br />
** waterproof, found on 'bathroom' carpets<br />
<br />
<br />
==Pile types==<br />
* wool<br />
* wool/synthetic blend<br />
* synthetic<br />
* loop<br />
* cut pile<br />
* shag<br />
<br />
Axminster<br />
<br />
Wilton<br />
<br />
Axminster & Wilton are manufacturing methods, not brand names.<br />
<br />
Flotex<br />
<br />
carpet tiles<br />
<br />
<br />
=Quality=<br />
Quality of carpet depends on<br />
* Pile density<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<br />
Pile density<br />
<br />
=Buying carpet=<br />
==New==<br />
Beware of the travelling sellers that show good quality specimens then fit cheaper carpet, claiming its what you ordered and paid for.<br />
==Used==<br />
==Offcuts==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet fitting=<br />
gripper rod<br />
<br />
tacks<br />
<br />
adhesive<br />
<br />
stair rods<br />
<br />
<br />
stretching<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet and Downlighters=<br />
Mixing downlighting with carpets is a recipe for very poor energy efficiency. The darker the carpet, the worse the result.<br />
<br />
=Carpet Styles=<br />
When you wish to create a certain style<br />
<br />
*Arabic<br />
<br />
*Minimalist<br />
<br />
* Practical<br />
** soft patterns, never plain<br />
** pile is mixed colours rather than areas of single colour<br />
** mid to light colours in dull rooms<br />
** fairly dark colours if very heavy use anticipated<br />
** 70/30 wool synthetic blend for minimum wear<br />
<br />
*Victorian<br />
**deep reds, blues, <br />
** Flower patterns<br />
** Geometric patterns<br />
** Fine but fairly bold repetitive patterns<br />
** Rugs and runners rather than fitted carpets<br />
** Uncarpeted wooden floor borders often painted black<br />
** Brass stair rods<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet in Vehicles=<br />
=Carpet in Bathrooms=<br />
Unpopular due to hygiene issues<br />
<br />
If you want bathroom carpet, a cleaner would be a good idea too.<br />
<br />
Pick non shrinking backing<br />
<br />
Waterproof backing for suspended timber floors<br />
<br />
Permeable backing for masonry floors with no dpc<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Carpet Cleaning]]<br />
<br />
=Repair & Maintenance=<br />
==Areas of flattened pile==<br />
Spray with water. Brush vigorously until pile stands up. Leave to dry<br />
==Fraying or shedding edges==<br />
===To stop deterioration===<br />
* hoover clean<br />
* cut away stragglers<br />
* apply latex glue to backing.<br />
===To repair===<br />
* cut out a rectangle of damage<br />
* cut a reaplcement piece of carpet from somewhere inconspicuous, eg under a sofa<br />
* Fix patch to trimmed damaged area using carpet tape<br />
* Apply latex to all cut edges to prevent fraying.<br />
* Or glue in place using latex<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
[[Cleaning FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Carpet cleaning thread on ukdiy</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Paint&diff=1792Paint2006-12-30T16:41:52Z<p>62.253.32.4: plastics</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Paint''' can transform appearance, it can make a style, it can emphasise desired features and partially obscure others.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Types of Paint=<br />
<br />
==Emulsion==<br />
* Popular low cost matt and semi-matt wall paint<br />
* Prone to mild discolouring if used on radiators<br />
* Water based<br />
<br />
==Household gloss==<br />
* Oil based gloss for woodwork.<br />
* Produces fumes during application and for a few days afterwards.<br />
* May also be used for walls & ceilings where easy cleaning and hard wearing are required, but good ventilation during and after application must be provided.<br />
<br />
==Eggshell==<br />
* Oil based matt paint<br />
* harder wearing than emulsion<br />
<br />
==Masonry paint==<br />
* For exterior use only<br />
* Not for use on old non-cavity walls<br />
* The term covers more than one formulation of paint<br />
<br />
==Limewash==<br />
* Lime putty & water<br />
* Dead matt finish<br />
* Limewash looks very thin on initial application, but bodies up both through drying and through carbonation over several days after application<br />
* When extra stick is needed a tiny amount of linseed oil may be mixed in. Don't add too much.<br />
* The term is also sometimes used to describe distemper or milk paints.<br />
<br />
==Distemper==<br />
* The forerunner of modern emulsion<br />
* Distemper can be washed off with hot water and detergent<br />
* Dead matt finish<br />
* Well suited to intricate mouldings, as its easy removal avoids paint build up over time obscuring detail.<br />
* not available in dark colours due to chalk content<br />
<br />
==Stove enamel==<br />
* A hard thick coating<br />
* Possibly the toughest of all paint finishes<br />
* Used on cookers, some cookware, and some goods with long life expectancy<br />
* Relatively expensive<br />
* Heated after application<br />
<br />
==Powder coat==<br />
* Tough finish for metal goods<br />
* Heated after application.<br />
<br />
==Whitewash==<br />
* Whiting (chalk powder) and water soluble glue.<br />
* Short lived<br />
* Useful for temporary applications, such as greenhouse shading<br />
<br />
==Water based gloss==<br />
* A semi-gloss household paint mainly used for woodwork<br />
* Durability not comparable to oil based gloss paint<br />
<br />
==Pliolite==<br />
* Matt<br />
* Synthetic resin<br />
* Pinholes heavily<br />
* Longer lived than budget masonry paints<br />
<br />
==Linseed oil paint==<br />
* Takes days to dry<br />
* Nice smell while drying<br />
* Non-toxic<br />
* Soaks into woodwork<br />
* Driers (chemicals) speed up drying time but shorten paint life<br />
<br />
==Hammerite==<br />
* For metal<br />
* Pinholes badly<br />
* --- is better<br />
<br />
==Enamel==<br />
* Enamel is not one specific type of paint. It simply means a paint with a hard finish. <br />
* Suited to rigid metalwork.<br />
* Not suitable for wood<br />
<br />
==Car paints==<br />
===Acrylic===<br />
===Cellulose===<br />
<br />
==Japan black==<br />
* A high durability low cost black paint.<br />
* Very popular during the early part of the 20th century.<br />
<br />
==Clay paints==<br />
* Only dark colours possible<br />
==Silicate paints==<br />
==Vinyl Dye==<br />
* For painting plastics<br />
* Penetrates the surface of the plastic for a more durable finish<br />
* Stinks<br />
<br />
==2 part polyurethane gloss==<br />
* Marine grade paint<br />
* Super tough<br />
* Currently around £40 per litre, plus cost of primer<br />
* For wood, GRP, steel and light alloy<br />
* Correct primer also required<br />
* Complete stripping normally required before application<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
==General==<br />
It is possible to paint directly onto almost any household surface, but a little preparation helps ensure consistently good results.<br />
* Remove any flaking or bubbling paint<br />
* Clean the surface<br />
<br />
==New plaster==<br />
New plaster is very absorbent, and needs extra water for the first coat of paint. There are 2 ways to do this.<br />
===Piss coat===<br />
* Paint with a 50/50 mix of emulsion and water.<br />
===Water coat===<br />
# Paint the wall with a coat of water. There is no need for any particular care with this, so it can be done very fast.<br />
# Wait 5 minutes<br />
# Paint with normal strength emulsion.<br />
* This method is quicker and no paint mixing is involved.<br />
* Gives a full strength coat rather than a thin coat.<br />
<br />
=Paints by purpose=<br />
==Ceilings==<br />
* Emulsion<br />
* Distemper<br />
* Limewash<br />
* Gloss if a shiny easy clean finish is desired<br />
<br />
==Walls==<br />
* Emulsion<br />
* Distemper<br />
* Limewash for walls subject to light wear<br />
* Gloss for a tough easy clean finish. Not as attractive as matt paints.<br />
<br />
==Woodwork==<br />
* Gloss<br />
* Waterbased gloss<br />
* Emulsion can be used but tends to not wear well<br />
* Distemper to preserve fine detail where the woodwork is not subject to heavy wear<br />
* Linseed oil paint<br />
<br />
==Asbestos==<br />
* Emulsion<br />
* Household gloss<br />
<br />
==Wood floors==<br />
* Paint not recommended,<br />
<br />
==Concrete floors==<br />
* Concrete floor paints<br />
* Epoxy paints<br />
<br />
==Exterior==<br />
* Masonry paints for cavity walls<br />
* Limewash for old non-cavity walls<br />
<br />
==Iron & steel==<br />
<br />
==Fireplaces==<br />
<br />
==Plastics==<br />
* Vinyl dye<br />
===PVC===<br />
* Household gloss topcoat, no undercoat or primer<br />
* This chemically bonds to the pvc, giving much longer paint life than on wood.<br />
<br />
=Solvents=<br />
Water<br />
<br />
White spirit<br />
<br />
Turps substitute<br />
<br />
Cellulose thinners<br />
<br />
=Paint Effects=<br />
Woodgraining<br />
<br />
Ragrolling<br />
<br />
Marbling<br />
<br />
Sprayed fades<br />
<br />
Colourwash<br />
<br />
=Paint Styles=<br />
A few familiar styles...<br />
<br />
==70s==<br />
* Weird, fantasy based and suggestive of anything other than a house<br />
* Drug induced decor schemes.<br />
* Psychedelic<br />
* Overbearing purples and oranges<br />
* Earthy brown & beige based schemes<br />
* Simple detailless flower shapes, often in oranges yellows and browns<br />
<br />
<br />
==Earthy==<br />
* Fairly deep red, deep brown. light brown. cream<br />
* Colours often used in panels with all colours in one room<br />
<br />
==Medieval==<br />
* White limed walls.<br />
* Woodwork was not painted black, this is a more recent fashion.<br />
* Black ironwork<br />
<br />
==Minimalist==<br />
* White.<br />
* More white.<br />
<br />
==Victorian==<br />
* White glossed woodwork<br />
* Dark brown woodwork<br />
* Generally garish colours for the interior - this was an era in which people played with colourwashes. For example paris green interior woodwork was once fashionable. Subtlety and what we would think of as more developed taste was not the style of the time.<br />
* Exterior woodwork black, brown, green or broken white, but not white.<br />
* Colour washes applied to a white lime paint base.<br />
* Floorboards sometimes painted black around the perimeter.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Troubleshooting=<br />
* A cracked paint finish is generally due to use of paint that was too thick.<br />
* Failure to adhere may be due to surface contamination, eg with oil or grease<br />
* Lime rendered exterior walls should be painted with porous paints if paint is wanted.<br />
* Brickwork on old houses with no dpc should be painted with porous paints if at all.<br />
* Stain appearance is due to an underlying stain that is (partly) soluble in the paint being used. Use another paint based on a different solvent to block the stain. If this doesn't work try a stain block paint.<br />
* When putting water based paints over gloss, paint the gloss first with a coat of matt oil based paint. Another option is to lightly sand the old gloss first.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Alternatives to paint=<br />
<br />
==For Wood==<br />
* Varnish<br />
* Wax<br />
* Stain<br />
* Liming<br />
<br />
==For Walls==<br />
* Wallpaper<br />
* Fabric drapes<br />
* Panelling<br />
* Wood cladding<br />
* PVC cladding, not highly recommended<br />
<br />
==For Ceilings==<br />
* Wallpaper<br />
* Fabric drapes<br />
<br />
==For Metal==<br />
* Polishing<br />
* Plating<br />
* Varnish/lacquer<br />
<br />
==For exterior walls==<br />
* Removing all paint with a stripper eg caustic<br />
* Pebbledash<br />
* Cladding<br />
<br />
<br />
=Paint retouching=<br />
Paint retouching may be used between repairs to extend the life of existing paint finishes. It can also be used when there is not enough time to repaint.<br />
<br />
Paint retouching is a fast minimal cost way to make a house look in much better decrative order. The ok can be made to look good, and even the tatty can be made to look ok.<br />
<br />
Typically a room can be decorated this way using a teaspoonful of paint or less.<br />
<br />
# Clean the existing paintwork. This will brighten it up as well as clean it.<br />
# Obtain a teaspoonful or a miniature pot of matching paint. If you don't already have the paint you need, match to a cleaned fragment of paint, otherwise you won't get quite the right colour.<br />
# Colour matching is critical. <br />
# Use an artists brush with the matching paint to fill in any chips in the paint finish.<br />
<br />
The 2 golden rules:<br />
# Paint tint must never be brighter than the existing paintwork, not by the tiniest bit. The match must be either exact or the new paint should be a fraction duller.<br />
# Never allow any paint whatever to overlap the edges of the chip hollows. Absolutely none. It is not necessary to fill the hollows fully, but any overlap at all ruins the effect.<br />
<br />
This method works very well if the 2 golden rules are followed, but will look like a poor bodge if they're not.<br />
<br />
=Removal of Paint=<br />
==Blowlamp==<br />
* A cause of house fires and damage to woodwork<br />
<br />
==Heatgun==<br />
<br />
==Scraper==<br />
<br />
==Sanding==<br />
<br />
==Stripping chemicals==<br />
===Caustic soda===<br />
* Strips oil based paints<br />
* Caustic soda with cellulose wallpaper paste added makes a gel which keeps the stripper in contact with the workpiece.<br />
* Avoid skin contact, caustic burns.<br />
* Splashes to the eye can cause serious damage over time after the incident, so any such splash must be treated properly and promptly, seek medical assistance.<br />
* Neutralise caustic residue with a mild acid before repainting, eg citric acid.<br />
<br />
===Meth whatever it is===<br />
===Boiled linseed oil===<br />
Softens oil based paints<br />
===Ecover washing up liquid===<br />
* Removes emulsion paints<br />
* Soak in a dilute solution for hours and the paint just wipes off.<br />
===Alcohol===<br />
* Softens emulsion<br />
* Long soak needed<br />
===Acids===<br />
* Remove all lime based paints<br />
<br />
==Dip stripping==<br />
Dip stripping baths are routinely run until so weak that long immersion times are needed. Long immersion in caustic attacks the glues in the workpiece, often resulting in doors cracking apart and joints coming loose. The wood surface is also often left in poor condition after a dip strip. Dip stripping is quick but has a habit of producing poor results and damage.<br />
<br />
=Toxic paints=<br />
White lead, grey lead and red lead are well known. Some lead paints are still in use. Historic arsenic green paints are also found occasionally. The others are less likely to be encountered in house paints.<br />
<br />
A list of some of the more common toxic paint pigments:<br />
<br />
Flake white - lead carbonate<br />
Cremnitz white - lead carbonate<br />
Grey lead - lead monoxide<br />
Red lead - <br />
Paris green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
Emerald green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
chrome yellows - lead chromate<br />
<br />
Less common:<br />
<br />
Naples yellow - sometimes includes lead antimoniate<br />
Cadmium yellows<br />
Chrome green - lead chromate<br />
Schweinfurt green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
Paul Veronese green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
Cadmium reds, <br />
Cadmium orange<br />
Viridian<br />
Chrome oxide<br />
Manganese blue, <br />
Manganese violet<br />
Cobalt violet - sometimes contains cobalt arsenate<br />
Raw & burnt umber<br />
Vermilion - mercuric sulfide<br />
<br />
<br />
==Removal of toxic paints==<br />
Lead paints are common, more so on older houses. They are still in use, although much less common than previously, and are liable to have been used on buildings as recent as the 1970s.<br />
<br />
They can cause serious health problems if handled wrongly. Arsenic pigment paints are rare, but removal of those also poses a health risk. Arsenic paints in damp locations are also a risk, as a reaction may occur liberating an arsenic gaseous compound.<br />
<br />
Generally it is safer to leave lead paint in place and overpaint it rather than remove it. This also gives the benefit of greater woodworm resistance.<br />
<br />
Leaded paints should be removed when necessary in a manner which does not produce dust, and traps any dust that may occur. A gel paint stripper is ideal. Lead paints should not be removed with a blowtorch or hot air gun, which create dust and disperse it into the air.<br />
<br />
Handling of paints containing arsenic and other toxins is beyond the scope of this article.<br />
<br />
For paint testing services, a good place to look is water testing companies, who test drinking water for a wide range of contaminants.<br />
<br />
More information:<br />
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/e90e9830b5080ecb/eadbad7afe47bc71#eadbad7afe47bc71<br />
<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
Traditional paints FAQ:<br />
http://www.realpaints.com/faq.htm</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Paint&diff=1791Paint2006-12-30T16:39:23Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Paint''' can transform appearance, it can make a style, it can emphasise desired features and partially obscure others.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Types of Paint=<br />
<br />
==Emulsion==<br />
* Popular low cost matt and semi-matt wall paint<br />
* Prone to mild discolouring if used on radiators<br />
* Water based<br />
<br />
==Household gloss==<br />
* Oil based gloss for woodwork.<br />
* Produces fumes during application and for a few days afterwards.<br />
* May also be used for walls & ceilings where easy cleaning and hard wearing are required, but good ventilation during and after application must be provided.<br />
<br />
==Eggshell==<br />
* Oil based matt paint<br />
* harder wearing than emulsion<br />
<br />
==Masonry paint==<br />
* For exterior use only<br />
* Not for use on old non-cavity walls<br />
* The term covers more than one formulation of paint<br />
<br />
==Limewash==<br />
* Lime putty & water<br />
* Dead matt finish<br />
* Limewash looks very thin on initial application, but bodies up both through drying and through carbonation over several days after application<br />
* When extra stick is needed a tiny amount of linseed oil may be mixed in. Don't add too much.<br />
* The term is also sometimes used to describe distemper or milk paints.<br />
<br />
==Distemper==<br />
* The forerunner of modern emulsion<br />
* Distemper can be washed off with hot water and detergent<br />
* Dead matt finish<br />
* Well suited to intricate mouldings, as its easy removal avoids paint build up over time obscuring detail.<br />
* not available in dark colours due to chalk content<br />
<br />
==Stove enamel==<br />
* A hard thick coating<br />
* Possibly the toughest of all paint finishes<br />
* Used on cookers, some cookware, and some goods with long life expectancy<br />
* Relatively expensive<br />
* Heated after application<br />
<br />
==Powder coat==<br />
* Tough finish for metal goods<br />
* Heated after application.<br />
<br />
==Whitewash==<br />
* Whiting (chalk powder) and water soluble glue.<br />
* Short lived<br />
* Useful for temporary applications, such as greenhouse shading<br />
<br />
==Water based gloss==<br />
* A semi-gloss household paint mainly used for woodwork<br />
* Durability not comparable to oil based gloss paint<br />
<br />
==Pliolite==<br />
* Matt<br />
* Synthetic resin<br />
* Pinholes heavily<br />
* Longer lived than budget masonry paints<br />
<br />
==Linseed oil paint==<br />
* Takes days to dry<br />
* Nice smell while drying<br />
* Non-toxic<br />
* Soaks into woodwork<br />
* Driers (chemicals) speed up drying time but shorten paint life<br />
<br />
==Hammerite==<br />
* For metal<br />
* Pinholes badly<br />
* --- is better<br />
<br />
==Enamel==<br />
* Enamel is not one specific type of paint. It simply means a paint with a hard finish. <br />
* Suited to rigid metalwork.<br />
* Not suitable for wood<br />
<br />
==Car paints==<br />
===Acrylic===<br />
===Cellulose===<br />
<br />
==Japan black==<br />
* A high durability low cost black paint.<br />
* Very popular during the early part of the 20th century.<br />
<br />
==Clay paints==<br />
* Only dark colours possible<br />
==Silicate paints==<br />
==Vinyl Dye==<br />
* For painting plastics<br />
* Penetrates the surface of the plastic for a more durable finish<br />
* Stinks<br />
<br />
==2 part polyurethane gloss==<br />
* Marine grade paint<br />
* Super tough<br />
* Currently around £40 per litre, plus cost of primer<br />
* For wood, GRP, steel and light alloy<br />
* Correct primer also required<br />
* Complete stripping normally required before application<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
==General==<br />
It is possible to paint directly onto almost any household surface, but a little preparation helps ensure consistently good results.<br />
* Remove any flaking or bubbling paint<br />
* Clean the surface<br />
<br />
==New plaster==<br />
New plaster is very absorbent, and needs extra water for the first coat of paint. There are 2 ways to do this.<br />
===Piss coat===<br />
* Paint with a 50/50 mix of emulsion and water.<br />
===Water coat===<br />
# Paint the wall with a coat of water. There is no need for any particular care with this, so it can be done very fast.<br />
# Wait 5 minutes<br />
# Paint with normal strength emulsion.<br />
* This method is quicker and no paint mixing is involved.<br />
* Gives a full strength coat rather than a thin coat.<br />
<br />
=Paints by purpose=<br />
==Ceilings==<br />
* Emulsion<br />
* Distemper<br />
* Limewash<br />
* Gloss if a shiny easy clean finish is desired<br />
<br />
==Walls==<br />
* Emulsion<br />
* Distemper<br />
* Limewash for walls subject to light wear<br />
* Gloss for a tough easy clean finish. Not as attractive as matt paints.<br />
<br />
==Woodwork==<br />
* Gloss<br />
* Waterbased gloss<br />
* Emulsion can be used but tends to not wear well<br />
* Distemper to preserve fine detail where the woodwork is not subject to heavy wear<br />
* Linseed oil paint<br />
<br />
==Asbestos==<br />
* Emulsion<br />
* Household gloss<br />
<br />
==Wood floors==<br />
* Paint not recommended,<br />
<br />
==Concrete floors==<br />
* Concrete floor paints<br />
* Epoxy paints<br />
<br />
==Exterior==<br />
* Masonry paints for cavity walls<br />
* Limewash for old non-cavity walls<br />
<br />
==Iron & steel==<br />
<br />
==Fireplaces==<br />
<br />
=Solvents=<br />
Water<br />
<br />
White spirit<br />
<br />
Turps substitute<br />
<br />
Cellulose thinners<br />
<br />
=Paint Effects=<br />
Woodgraining<br />
<br />
Ragrolling<br />
<br />
Marbling<br />
<br />
Sprayed fades<br />
<br />
Colourwash<br />
<br />
=Paint Styles=<br />
A few familiar styles...<br />
<br />
==70s==<br />
* Weird, fantasy based and suggestive of anything other than a house<br />
* Drug induced decor schemes.<br />
* Psychedelic<br />
* Overbearing purples and oranges<br />
* Earthy brown & beige based schemes<br />
* Simple detailless flower shapes, often in oranges yellows and browns<br />
<br />
<br />
==Earthy==<br />
* Fairly deep red, deep brown. light brown. cream<br />
* Colours often used in panels with all colours in one room<br />
<br />
==Medieval==<br />
* White limed walls.<br />
* Woodwork was not painted black, this is a more recent fashion.<br />
* Black ironwork<br />
<br />
==Minimalist==<br />
* White.<br />
* More white.<br />
<br />
==Victorian==<br />
* White glossed woodwork<br />
* Dark brown woodwork<br />
* Generally garish colours for the interior - this was an era in which people played with colourwashes. For example paris green interior woodwork was once fashionable. Subtlety and what we would think of as more developed taste was not the style of the time.<br />
* Exterior woodwork black, brown, green or broken white, but not white.<br />
* Colour washes applied to a white lime paint base.<br />
* Floorboards sometimes painted black around the perimeter.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Troubleshooting=<br />
* A cracked paint finish is generally due to use of paint that was too thick.<br />
* Failure to adhere may be due to surface contamination, eg with oil or grease<br />
* Lime rendered exterior walls should be painted with porous paints if paint is wanted.<br />
* Brickwork on old houses with no dpc should be painted with porous paints if at all.<br />
* Stain appearance is due to an underlying stain that is (partly) soluble in the paint being used. Use another paint based on a different solvent to block the stain. If this doesn't work try a stain block paint.<br />
* When putting water based paints over gloss, paint the gloss first with a coat of matt oil based paint. Another option is to lightly sand the old gloss first.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Alternatives to paint=<br />
<br />
==For Wood==<br />
* Varnish<br />
* Wax<br />
* Stain<br />
* Liming<br />
<br />
==For Walls==<br />
* Wallpaper<br />
* Fabric drapes<br />
* Panelling<br />
* Wood cladding<br />
* PVC cladding, not highly recommended<br />
<br />
==For Ceilings==<br />
* Wallpaper<br />
* Fabric drapes<br />
<br />
==For Metal==<br />
* Polishing<br />
* Plating<br />
* Varnish/lacquer<br />
<br />
==For exterior walls==<br />
* Removing all paint with a stripper eg caustic<br />
* Pebbledash<br />
* Cladding<br />
<br />
<br />
=Paint retouching=<br />
Paint retouching may be used between repairs to extend the life of existing paint finishes. It can also be used when there is not enough time to repaint.<br />
<br />
Paint retouching is a fast minimal cost way to make a house look in much better decrative order. The ok can be made to look good, and even the tatty can be made to look ok.<br />
<br />
Typically a room can be decorated this way using a teaspoonful of paint or less.<br />
<br />
# Clean the existing paintwork. This will brighten it up as well as clean it.<br />
# Obtain a teaspoonful or a miniature pot of matching paint. If you don't already have the paint you need, match to a cleaned fragment of paint, otherwise you won't get quite the right colour.<br />
# Colour matching is critical. <br />
# Use an artists brush with the matching paint to fill in any chips in the paint finish.<br />
<br />
The 2 golden rules:<br />
# Paint tint must never be brighter than the existing paintwork, not by the tiniest bit. The match must be either exact or the new paint should be a fraction duller.<br />
# Never allow any paint whatever to overlap the edges of the chip hollows. Absolutely none. It is not necessary to fill the hollows fully, but any overlap at all ruins the effect.<br />
<br />
This method works very well if the 2 golden rules are followed, but will look like a poor bodge if they're not.<br />
<br />
=Removal of Paint=<br />
==Blowlamp==<br />
* A cause of house fires and damage to woodwork<br />
<br />
==Heatgun==<br />
<br />
==Scraper==<br />
<br />
==Sanding==<br />
<br />
==Stripping chemicals==<br />
===Caustic soda===<br />
* Strips oil based paints<br />
* Caustic soda with cellulose wallpaper paste added makes a gel which keeps the stripper in contact with the workpiece.<br />
* Avoid skin contact, caustic burns.<br />
* Splashes to the eye can cause serious damage over time after the incident, so any such splash must be treated properly and promptly, seek medical assistance.<br />
* Neutralise caustic residue with a mild acid before repainting, eg citric acid.<br />
<br />
===Meth whatever it is===<br />
===Boiled linseed oil===<br />
Softens oil based paints<br />
===Ecover washing up liquid===<br />
* Removes emulsion paints<br />
* Soak in a dilute solution for hours and the paint just wipes off.<br />
===Alcohol===<br />
* Softens emulsion<br />
* Long soak needed<br />
===Acids===<br />
* Remove all lime based paints<br />
<br />
==Dip stripping==<br />
Dip stripping baths are routinely run until so weak that long immersion times are needed. Long immersion in caustic attacks the glues in the workpiece, often resulting in doors cracking apart and joints coming loose. The wood surface is also often left in poor condition after a dip strip. Dip stripping is quick but has a habit of producing poor results and damage.<br />
<br />
=Toxic paints=<br />
White lead, grey lead and red lead are well known. Some lead paints are still in use. Historic arsenic green paints are also found occasionally. The others are less likely to be encountered in house paints.<br />
<br />
A list of some of the more common toxic paint pigments:<br />
<br />
Flake white - lead carbonate<br />
Cremnitz white - lead carbonate<br />
Grey lead - lead monoxide<br />
Red lead - <br />
Paris green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
Emerald green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
chrome yellows - lead chromate<br />
<br />
Less common:<br />
<br />
Naples yellow - sometimes includes lead antimoniate<br />
Cadmium yellows<br />
Chrome green - lead chromate<br />
Schweinfurt green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
Paul Veronese green - sometimes contains copper acetoarsenite<br />
Cadmium reds, <br />
Cadmium orange<br />
Viridian<br />
Chrome oxide<br />
Manganese blue, <br />
Manganese violet<br />
Cobalt violet - sometimes contains cobalt arsenate<br />
Raw & burnt umber<br />
Vermilion - mercuric sulfide<br />
<br />
<br />
==Removal of toxic paints==<br />
Lead paints are common, more so on older houses. They are still in use, although much less common than previously, and are liable to have been used on buildings as recent as the 1970s.<br />
<br />
They can cause serious health problems if handled wrongly. Arsenic pigment paints are rare, but removal of those also poses a health risk. Arsenic paints in damp locations are also a risk, as a reaction may occur liberating an arsenic gaseous compound.<br />
<br />
Generally it is safer to leave lead paint in place and overpaint it rather than remove it. This also gives the benefit of greater woodworm resistance.<br />
<br />
Leaded paints should be removed when necessary in a manner which does not produce dust, and traps any dust that may occur. A gel paint stripper is ideal. Lead paints should not be removed with a blowtorch or hot air gun, which create dust and disperse it into the air.<br />
<br />
Handling of paints containing arsenic and other toxins is beyond the scope of this article.<br />
<br />
For paint testing services, a good place to look is water testing companies, who test drinking water for a wide range of contaminants.<br />
<br />
More information:<br />
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/e90e9830b5080ecb/eadbad7afe47bc71#eadbad7afe47bc71<br />
<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
Traditional paints FAQ:<br />
http://www.realpaints.com/faq.htm</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Part_P_-_Discussion&diff=1790Part P - Discussion2006-12-30T10:56:14Z<p>62.253.32.4: misses the point link</p>
<hr />
<div>== Approved Document P: Electrical safety - dwellings (2006 edition) ==<br />
published: 15 March 2006 <br />
ISBN: 978 1 85946 225 6<br />
Price: £15 [[http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADP_2006.pdf free .pdf download]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 'Approved Document' ie the official chapter and verse can currently be downloaded in .pdf form from [[http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADP_2006.pdf www.communities.gov.uk]] (which is apparently what the Office of the Fat Controller is called these days)<br />
<br />
[[http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/PartP.cfm Information from IEEE ]]<br />
<br />
Part P of the Building Regulations applies to England and Wales. It does not apply to Scotland, which has its own Building Standards set by [[http://www.sbsa.gov.uk Scottish Building Standards Agency]]<br />
<br />
==Further Information Links==<br />
Part P: How should it work?<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/5c32eff472792093/7fa9f52172719177?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=1#7fa9f52172719177<br />
<br />
Part-P Inspection - How does it work?<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/7df0301b789675da/26f9b182c9c08521?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=2#26f9b182c9c08521<br />
<br />
Electrics: How much can I legally do myself?<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/811fd015be2dbb4c/b969bde719dd841e?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=54#b969bde719dd841e<br />
<br />
Part P, the practical summary:<br />
<br />
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/7e04776220d31416/9ffc2cd75118cddf?hl=en#9ffc2cd75118cddf<br />
<br />
<br />
==Opinion & Debate on Part P==<br />
Part P has met with significant controversy. The following are discussions of some of its issues.<br />
<br />
<br />
U need 2 know Part P:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/cee0229d33747d61/2cb1e22c4f0afd34?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=3#2cb1e22c4f0afd34<br />
<br />
Part P the reality:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/f0ba11b72ada8b62/0d660f8a2023afc2?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=4#0d660f8a2023afc2<br />
<br />
ODPM admits Part P consultation flawed:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/baea90c563667ee0/50302a650e1cde91?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=6#50302a650e1cde91<br />
<br />
Part P new wiring colours -more obfuscation:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/dc1737531d663918/23a4c82608ebf7e9?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=8#23a4c82608ebf7e9<br />
<br />
Just a thought about Part P...<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/1ad3f2588a97f897/ede5c4cf4ac37e01?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=9#ede5c4cf4ac37e01<br />
<br />
Sinister censorship caused by Part P:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/1de39cfbfb964adb/731a5a4e81aecc84?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=12#731a5a4e81aecc84<br />
<br />
Part P and Dishwashers:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/52f59d577d6e7f61/7c698bf5005e574f?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=15#7c698bf5005e574f<br />
<br />
How does Part P help?<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/8ae6c2f3eeda688d/983ad5264eebbee6?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=16#983ad5264eebbee6<br />
<br />
Part P over and out ...<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/3759ef85f2f1104e/972dace0490f9b61?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=17#972dace0490f9b61<br />
<br />
Part P (again):<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/a15352ed28e43a4e/0df636c321b4e279?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=19#0df636c321b4e279<br />
<br />
Part P Scenario:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/eaadeb86420f429c/d49ff267d20657fe?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=30#d49ff267d20657fe<br />
<br />
Part P inspections:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/84dcd165d59428fd/2554e30f8dd6555d?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=38#2554e30f8dd6555d<br />
<br />
Part P Police!<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/fb352d2c2a5c5e4e/9296408fe3a27aac?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=39#9296408fe3a27aac<br />
<br />
Proposed Part P Building Regulations (Electrical Wiring):<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/b78bf7a82c9168da/dd31d2318894943b?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=41#dd31d2318894943b<br />
<br />
Forthcoming Building Regulations on electrical work (Part P):<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/e7ff5bff622ec776/8bac0ee55c06a2d7?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=42#8bac0ee55c06a2d7<br />
<br />
Electrical Building regulations (Part P) - What news?<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/149a3487457985a4/e33c99f4b6d22e58?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=50#e33c99f4b6d22e58<br />
<br />
Part P and new rings:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/1aa196e77d27cd2/1d6685d9c942ae28?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=53#1d6685d9c942ae28<br />
<br />
Electrical earthing:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/c1701311ccf6703f/0bed9b8d1c04c3d4?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=55#0bed9b8d1c04c3d4<br />
<br />
Part Q?? Building Regulations:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/d47114d3af5a6c1e/6c9713ff27a89239?q=%22part+p%22&rnum=57#6c9713ff27a89239<br />
<br />
Electrical qualifications:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/78c8f32f8485b85f/6a4294f68f20f4ee?q=%22N.+Thornton%22+OR+%22bigcat@meeow.co.uk%22&rnum=4#6a4294f68f20f4ee<br />
<br />
Why Part P has no effect:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/0bbfc2b949400bf9/772c7d9b259f1bbb#772c7d9b259f1bbb<br />
<br />
Unqualified but part p compliant:<br />
<br />
http://supplychain.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4<br />
<br />
Numbers and credibility:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/5ba47cafb3b2a46c/731e2ee8b2a724b5#731e2ee8b2a724b5<br />
<br />
Part P summary:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/7ef9dc0722dd66ca/1aff299de33f0ad1?hl=en#1aff299de33f0ad1<br />
<br />
Part P, safety and statistics:<br />
<br />
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/2fc24a6aa9cc3183/759fba30937e55bc?hl=en#759fba30937e55bc<br />
<br />
Part P, Mike's take:<br />
<br />
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/msg/faebedb0afce043b<br />
<br />
Part P, a tax on safety:<br />
<br />
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/msg/0c079d1db059dfd0<br />
<br />
Part P misses the point:<br />
<br />
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/msg/ec2e70e52051ef90<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Adhesive&diff=1789Adhesive2006-12-30T04:12:04Z<p>62.253.32.4: preparation, plaster</p>
<hr />
<div>For a general and scholarly article about Adhesives see Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adhesives<br />
<br />
= Adhesives By Purpose =<br />
<br />
== Wood ==<br />
* PVA<br />
* Animal<br />
* Resin<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* Acrylic<br />
see [[Wood glues]]<br />
<br />
== Metal ==<br />
* Epoxy<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* Contact<br />
<br />
== Plastics - PVC, ABS ==<br />
* Solvent glues<br />
* Solvents<br />
* Household gloss paint will glue pvc<br />
<br />
== Plastics - hard ==<br />
* Epoxy<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== Plastics - polyethylene, nylon ==<br />
* no glue can stick these directly<br />
* flamed polythene and nylon can be glued<br />
* melting the surfaces together also works, if both materials being joined are the same substance.<br />
<br />
== Fabric ==<br />
* Latex, eg Copydex<br />
<br />
== Paper & Card ==<br />
* PVA<br />
* Gum<br />
* Glue sticks (eg Pritt-stick) ([[PVA]] or PVP)<br />
* Spray-type photo fixing etc<br />
* Wallpaper paste<br />
* Starch<br />
<br />
==Oil lines==<br />
* Red hermetite<br />
<br />
==Plaster==<br />
to consolidate & stabilise loose plaster:<br />
* dilute PVA<br />
* limewash<br />
<br />
= Adhesives By Type =<br />
<br />
== cyanoacrylate (superglue)==<br />
== 2 part epoxy ("Araldite" etc)==<br />
* Tough<br />
* chemical resistant.<br />
* Some types are heat resistant, some not. The ones that aren't may claim they are on the basis that they survive heat, even if they do lose all strength when hot.<br />
* Car accessory shops sell tougher epoxies than Araldite.<br />
* Available as liquid resin tubes, putty sticks, or in standard building cartridges with automatic mixing nozzles.<br />
* Heating the mix (in tinfoil on a low ring) until runny makes it set very much faster. Don't overheat it.<br />
* vulnerable to uv<br />
<br />
== hot-melt glue==<br />
* Almost instant setting <br />
* Handy for creating structures where glue needs to set at each stage before the next can be glued<br />
* not the strongest most durable glue<br />
<br />
* Most common hot melt glue stick chemistry is amorphous polypropylene plus tackifiers and fillers. Several other chemistries also exist.<br />
* Polyethylene requires temperatures above those of standard retail glue guns to work, if you put polythene in an ordinary glue gun it will just soften enough to block it.<br />
<br />
Pdf hot melt glue datasheets:<br />
http://www.bostik-us.com/products/index.asp?fa=categories&divisionId=3&categoryId=54<br />
<br />
== [[PVA]]==<br />
[[PVA]] has a wide range of uses in building and DIY.<br />
<br />
* There are White and yellow types of PVA<br />
<br />
* A good wood glue<br />
<br />
* Reduces permeability of cement mortar & increases adhesion<br />
<br />
* Use as a plaster size<br />
<br />
* softens when wet<br />
<br />
* Exterior grade PVAs available, but are not waterproof<br />
<br />
== Acrylic mastic type==<br />
(e.g. "solvent-free Gripfill/No-more-nails/etc")<br />
==Caulk==<br />
Caulk is a flexible acrylic formula<br />
<br />
Paint sticks to caulk<br />
== Solvent based building adhesives==<br />
(Gripfill etc)<br />
== ? type==<br />
"Sticks like SH!T" etc<br />
== Polyurethane==<br />
== Polyester resin==<br />
* tough<br />
* sticks a wide range of materials<br />
* used in fibreglass work<br />
* available in clear or colours<br />
* car body filler is polyester resin plus fillers<br />
<br />
== Silicone==<br />
* Silicone sealant is a satisfactory glue in shear, but has little strength in tension.<br />
* Silicone is used to glue glass aquaria together, but this is a tougher formula than builders' silicone sealant.<br />
* Building silicones are RTV, room temperature vulcanised.<br />
<br />
== Solvent cements==<br />
eg perspex in acetone<br />
== Tile adhesives==<br />
* Cement based most popular<br />
See BAL Adhesives guide for information on different types<br />
<br />
==Wallpaper Paste==<br />
how long will it store once mixed?<br />
==Starch==<br />
* Glue for wallpaper, card & paper.<br />
* To make starch glue, boil some starch (eg flour, oats, etc) until it changes from white to semi-clear. Add a little alum to prevent mould if you're not using it immediately.<br />
* To make a starch gluestick, parboil a potato. Suitable for gluing paper, just wipe with the potato and press together. Will not store.<br />
<br />
=Adhesive Selector Grid=<br />
Which adhesive is best for any 2 given materials?<br />
<br />
http://www.elessar.org.uk/adhesives.pdf<br />
<br />
http://www.thistothat.com/<br />
<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
In the great majority of cases, to obtain a good bond surfaces should be prepared so they are:<br />
* clean<br />
* dry<br />
* loose or flaky material removed<br />
* degreased<br />
<br />
<br />
=Moulding tools=<br />
Sometimes adhesives need to be moulded.<br />
<br />
Fugee & Fugenboy<br />
<br />
PTFE<br />
<br />
Polythene<br />
<br />
=Fillers=<br />
Fillers are used in gapfilling adhesives to reduce cost. They do affect the adhesive properties to some extent.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Suppliers=<br />
* Builder's merchants<br />
* diy sheds<br />
* car accessory shops<br />
* http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
[[PVA]]<br />
<br />
Book: 'On boat construction' by Gougeon Brothers is an expert guide to use of epoxies.<br />
<br />
BAL Adhesives tables<br />
<br />
[[Category:Adhesive]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Adhesive&diff=1787Adhesive2006-12-29T03:17:30Z<p>62.253.32.4: assorted minor</p>
<hr />
<div>For a general and scholarly article about Adhesives see Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adhesives<br />
<br />
= DIY adhesives =<br />
<br />
== By Purpose ==<br />
<br />
=== Wood ===<br />
* PVA<br />
* Animal<br />
* Resin<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* Acrylic<br />
see [[Wood glues]]<br />
<br />
=== Metal ===<br />
* Epoxy<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* Contact<br />
<br />
=== Plastics - PVC, ABS ===<br />
* Solvent glues<br />
* Solvents<br />
* Gloss paint glues pvc<br />
<br />
=== Plastics - hard ===<br />
* Epoxy<br />
* Polyurethane<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
=== Plastics - polyethylene, nylon ===<br />
* no glue can stick these directly<br />
* flamed polythene and nylon can be glued<br />
* melting the surfaces together also works, if both materials being joined are the same substance.<br />
<br />
=== Fabric ===<br />
* Latex, eg Copydex<br />
<br />
=== Paper & Card ===<br />
* PVA<br />
* Gum<br />
* Glue sticks (eg Pritt-stick) ([[PVA]] or PVP)<br />
* Spray-type photo fixing etc<br />
* Wallpaper paste<br />
* Starch<br />
<br />
== By Type ==<br />
<br />
=== cyanoacrylate (superglue)===<br />
=== 2-part epoxy ("Araldite" etc)===<br />
* Tough<br />
* chemical resistant.<br />
* Some types are heat resistant, some not. The ones that aren't may claim they are on the basis that they survive heat, even if they do lose all strength when hot.<br />
* Grey liquid steel types from car accessory shops are much tougher than Araldite etc.<br />
* Available as liquid resin tubes, putty sticks, or in standard building cartridges with automatic mixing nozzles.<br />
<br />
=== hot-melt glue===<br />
* Almost instant setting <br />
* Handy for creating structures where glue needs to set at each stage before the next can be glued<br />
* not the strongest most durable glue<br />
<br />
=== [[PVA]] liquid===<br />
[[PVA]] has a wide range of uses in building and DIY.<br />
<br />
=== Acrylic mastic type (e.g. "solvent-free Gripfill/No-more-nails/etc")===<br />
===Caulk===<br />
Caulk is a flexible acrylic formula<br />
=== Solvent based building adhesives (Gripfill etc)===<br />
=== ? type ("Sticks like SH!T" etc)===<br />
=== Polyurethane===<br />
=== Solvent cements===<br />
=== Tile adhesives===<br />
===Wallpaper Paste===<br />
how long will it store once mixed?<br />
===Starch===<br />
* Basic wallpaper and card/paper glue.<br />
* To make starch glue, boil some starch (eg flour, oats, etc). Add a little alum to prevent mould if you're not using it immediately.<br />
* To make a starch gluestick, parboil a potato. Suitable for gluing paper, just wipe with the potato and press together. Will not store.<br />
<br />
==Adhesive Selector Grid==<br />
Which adhesive is best for any 2 given materials?<br />
<br />
http://www.elessar.org.uk/adhesives.pdf<br />
<br />
http://www.thistothat.com/<br />
<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
[[PVA]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Hinges_FAQ&diff=1786Hinges FAQ2006-12-29T03:07:54Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/typesofhinge.htm</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Card_level&diff=1785Card level2006-12-28T13:46:02Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>Card Level<br />
<br />
<br />
A versatile low cost easily made level that can indicate accurate level and any and all angles from level.<br />
<br />
=How to Make=<br />
# Take a rectangular piece of card. The rectangularness must be accurate, freehand cut card is no use.<br />
# Measure and mark a point half way along the top. Again this must be very accurately placed.<br />
# Push a pin (drawing pin, map pin etc) through the card a few mm below the top at this halfway point.<br />
# Wiggle the pin in all directions until the pin sits in the hole with absolutely no friction.<br />
<br />
<br />
=How to use=<br />
When held only by the pin, the top of the card indicates the horizontal accurately.<br />
<br />
Either push the pin into the workpiece, or hold it against the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Ensure you're not touching the card when taking level.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Other angles=<br />
A perfectly symmetrical rectangular card indicates vertical as well as horizontal. <br />
<br />
The simplest way to find card with accurate angles is to use a whole sheet of card of any kind from a stationer's. Perhaps surprisingly I've yet to find a piece of such card that is not cut with accurate angles all round.<br />
<br />
<br />
There are 2 ways to indicate any other angle.<br />
#Mark lines at the desired angles on the card<br />
#Cut the card at the desired angles. Whatever angles you cut, the card must remain perfectly symmetrical and all angles must be cut accurately.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Advantages=<br />
* Can be made on the spot almost anywhere<br />
* Indicates any and every angle you want it to<br />
* Costs nothing<br />
* Reduces total weight & bulk of portable tool kit<br />
* More versatile than spirit levels<br />
<br />
=Limitations=<br />
* Susceptible to wind<br />
* Not robust, though its not hard to make a robust plastic version<br />
* Careless manufacture could result in inaccurate level indication<br />
* Items to be levelled can not be pressed against the level in use. It is easy to put them very close and equalise the gap by eye, but not as quick as a spirit level.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Carpet&diff=1784Carpet2006-12-28T13:41:57Z<p>62.253.32.4: correction</p>
<hr />
<div>=Carpet Types=<br />
<br />
==Backing types==<br />
* foam rubber<br />
** feels soft underfoot<br />
** non-shrinking<br />
* hessian<br />
** prone to shrink during cleaning<br />
** prone to rot in damp locations<br />
* felt<br />
** a lower cost backing<br />
* sheet plastic<br />
** waterproof, found on 'bathroom' carpets<br />
<br />
<br />
==Pile types==<br />
* wool<br />
* wool/synthetic blend<br />
* synthetic<br />
* loop<br />
* cut pile<br />
* shag<br />
<br />
Axminster<br />
<br />
Wilton<br />
<br />
Axminster & Wilton are manufacturing methods, not brand names.<br />
<br />
Flotex<br />
<br />
carpet tiles<br />
<br />
<br />
=Quality=<br />
Quality of carpet depends on<br />
* Pile density<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<br />
Pile density<br />
<br />
=Buying carpet=<br />
==New==<br />
Beware of the travelling sellers that show good quality specimens then fit cheaper carpet, claiming its what you ordered and paid for.<br />
==Used==<br />
==Offcuts==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet fitting=<br />
gripper rod<br />
<br />
tacks<br />
<br />
adhesive<br />
<br />
stair rods<br />
<br />
<br />
stretching<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet and Downlighters=<br />
Mixing downlighting with carpets is a recipe for very poor energy efficiency. The darker the carpet, the worse the result.<br />
<br />
=Carpet Styles=<br />
When you wish to create a certain style<br />
<br />
*Arabic<br />
<br />
*Minimalist<br />
<br />
* Practical<br />
** soft patterns, never plain<br />
** pile is mixed colours rather than areas of single colour<br />
** mid to light colours in dull rooms<br />
** fairly dark colours if very heavy use anticipated<br />
** 70/30 wool synthetic blend for minimum wear<br />
<br />
*Victorian<br />
**deep reds, blues, <br />
** Flower patterns<br />
** Geometric patterns<br />
** Fine but fairly bold repetitive patterns<br />
** Rugs and runners rather than fitted carpets<br />
** Uncarpeted wooden floor borders often painted black<br />
** Brass stair rods<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet in Vehicles=<br />
=Carpet in Bathrooms=<br />
Unpopular due to hygiene issues<br />
<br />
If you want bathroom carpet, a cleaner would be a good idea too.<br />
<br />
Pick non shrinking backing<br />
<br />
Waterproof backing for suspended timber floors<br />
<br />
Permeable backing for masonry floors with no dpc<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Carpet Cleaning]]<br />
<br />
=Repair & Maintenance=<br />
==Areas of flattened pile==<br />
Spray with water. Brush vigorously until pile stands up. Leave to dry<br />
==Fraying or shedding edges==<br />
===To stop deterioration===<br />
* hoover clean<br />
* cut away stragglers<br />
* apply latex glue to backing.<br />
===To repair===<br />
* cut out a rectangle of damage<br />
* cut a reaplcement piece of carpet from somewhere inconspicuous, eg under a sofa<br />
* Fix patch to trimmed damaged area using carpet tape<br />
* Apply latex to all cut edges to prevent fraying.<br />
* Or glue in place using latex<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
[[Cleaning FAQ]]<br />
Carpet cleaning thread on ukdiy</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Carpet&diff=1783Carpet2006-12-28T13:39:31Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>=Carpet Types=<br />
<br />
==Backing types==<br />
* foam rubber<br />
** feels soft underfoot<br />
** non-shrinking<br />
* hessian<br />
** prone to shrink during cleaning<br />
** prone to rot in damp locations<br />
* felt<br />
** a lower cost backing<br />
* sheet plastic<br />
** waterproof, found on 'bathroom' carpets<br />
<br />
<br />
==Pile types==<br />
* wool<br />
* wool/synthetic blend<br />
* synthetic<br />
* loop<br />
* cut pile<br />
* shag<br />
<br />
Axminster<br />
<br />
Wilton<br />
<br />
Axminster & Wilton are manufacturing methods, not brand names.<br />
<br />
Flotex<br />
<br />
carpet tiles<br />
<br />
<br />
=Quality=<br />
Quality of carpet depends on<br />
* Pile density<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<br />
Pile density<br />
<br />
=Buying carpet=<br />
==New==<br />
Beware of the travelling sellers that show good quality specimens then fit cheaper carpet, claiming its what you ordered and paid for.<br />
==Used==<br />
==Offcuts==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet fitting=<br />
gripper rod<br />
<br />
tacks<br />
<br />
adhesive<br />
<br />
stair rods<br />
<br />
<br />
stretching<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet and Downlighters=<br />
Mixing downlighting with carpets is a recipe for very poor energy efficiency. The darker the carpet, the worse the result.<br />
<br />
=Carpet Styles=<br />
When you wish to create a certain style<br />
<br />
*Arabic<br />
<br />
*Minimalist<br />
<br />
* Practical<br />
** soft patterns, never plain<br />
** pile is mixed colours rather than areas of single colour<br />
** mid to light colours in dull rooms<br />
** fairly dark colours if very heavy use anticipated<br />
** 70/30 wool synthetic blend for minimum wear<br />
<br />
*Victorian<br />
**deep reds, blues, <br />
** Flower patterns<br />
** Geometric patterns<br />
** Fine but fairly bold repetitive patterns<br />
** Rugs and runners rather than fitted carpets<br />
** Uncarpeted wooden floor borders often painted black<br />
** Brass stair rods<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Carpet in Vehicles=<br />
=Carpet in Bathrooms=<br />
Unpopular due to hygiene issues<br />
<br />
If you want bathroom carpet, a cleaner would be a good idea too.<br />
<br />
Pick non shrinking backing<br />
<br />
Waterproof backing for suspended timber floors<br />
<br />
Permeable backing for masonry floors with no dpc<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Carpet Cleaning]]<br />
<br />
=Repair & Maintenance=<br />
==Areas of flattened pile==<br />
Spray with water. Brush vigorously until pile stands up. Leave to dry<br />
==Fraying or shedding edges==<br />
===To stop deterioration===<br />
* hoover clean<br />
* cut away stragglers<br />
* apply latex glue to backing.<br />
===To repair===<br />
* cut out a rectangle of damage<br />
* cut a reaplcement piece of carpet from somewhere inconspicuous, eg under a sofa<br />
* Fix to old carpet using carpet tape<br />
* Apply latex to cut edges to prevent fraying.<br />
* Or glue in place using latex<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
[[Cleaning FAQ]]<br />
Carpet cleaning thread on ukdiy</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Glossary&diff=1782Glossary2006-12-28T13:25:34Z<p>62.253.32.4: more</p>
<hr />
<div>'''1:1:6''' mortar 1 part cement 1 part lime and 6 parts sand by volume.<br />
<br />
'''1:2:9''' mortar 1 part cement 1 part lime and 9 parts sand by volume. 1:2:9 is prone to premature failure, 1:1:6 is a better option.<br />
<br />
'''2-way switching''' A method of wiring switches so that a lamp can be turned on or off from more than one switch.<br />
<br />
'''3:1''' mortar 3 parts sand to 1 part cement by volume.<br />
<br />
'''ac''' a/c or a.c.<br />
* alternating current<br />
* air conditioning<br />
<br />
'''Acrylic'''<br />
<br />
'''AF''' Across Flats. Imperial nut measurement system.<br />
<br />
'''Airbrick'''<br />
<br />
'''Alkyd''' the chemistry of most oil based household gloss paints.<br />
<br />
'''Alkyd putty''' a glazing putty<br />
<br />
'''Allen key''' hexagonal<br />
<br />
'''Aluminium oxide''' a low cost grit widely used for sandpaper and some grinding wheels.<br />
<br />
'''Angle grinder''' a high speed hand held disc grinder used for grinding, cutting, and with wire brushes, mortar rakes etc.<br />
<br />
'''Asbestos''' Asbestos is any one of several tough natural fibres. The word is usually used to refer to asbestos cement.<br />
<br />
'''Ashathene''' An obsolete plestic cable, a precursor to pvc.<br />
<br />
'''Asphalt''' Hardwearing flooring made from Bitumen and clay.<br />
<br />
'''Auger''' a self feeding drill bit for wood. Designed for very low rotational speed with high torque. A good choice for hand drilling wood. Commonly available in sizes of 6mm and up. See [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''Ball pein hammer''' Hammer with ball shaped striking face. Possibly named as a result of indiscriminate use.<br />
<br />
'''Ballast'''<br />
# stone & other rubble used to form a hard stable base<br />
# current control device used to run a fluorescent tube.<br />
<br />
'''Barrel''' Lock barrel.<br />
<br />
'''BC'''<br />
<br />
'''Beam'''<br />
<br />
'''Bench grinder''' A bench mountable grinder used primarily for sharpening tools.<br />
<br />
'''Bimetal''' <br />
# Mechanical type of thermostat. Reliable, low cost, and lacking extra features. Need a neutral connection to avoid excess hysteresis. Compare electronic thermostat.<br />
# saw tooth type used on handsaws<br />
<br />
'''Bipin'''<br />
<br />
'''Bitumen''' a black sticky gloop derived from petroleum oil.<br />
<br />
'''Blockboard'''<br />
<br />
'''Blowlamp'''<br />
<br />
'''Bolster'''<br />
<br />
'''Bolt'''<br />
<br />
'''Bond'''<br />
*adhesion<br />
*pattern of brickwork<br />
<br />
'''Bonding'''<br />
<br />
'''BR''' building regulations.<br />
<br />
'''Bradawl'''<br />
<br />
'''Breeze Block'''<br />
<br />
'''Brick acid''' hydrochloric acid<br />
<br />
'''Brilliant white'''<br />
<br />
'''Broken white'''<br />
<br />
'''BSF'''<br />
<br />
'''Burnt sand mastic''' a sand & linseed oil mastic used between wood frames & masonry.<br />
<br />
'''Butyl putty''' another glazing putty<br />
<br />
'''Butyl rubber''' a long lived plastic used as pond liner & flat roof covering<br />
<br />
'''BZP''' Bright Zinc Plated<br />
<br />
'''Cable''' Electrical wire not intended for regular flexing. Has solid single core copper conductors. see also flex.<br />
<br />
'''Cable clips'''<br />
<br />
'''Cable ties'''<br />
<br />
'''Camber'''<br />
<br />
'''Camden'''<br />
<br />
'''Card Level''' - versatile low cost replacement for a spirit level<br />
<br />
'''Carpet tape'''<br />
<br />
'''Cartridge'''<br />
<br />
'''Cellulose thinners'''<br />
<br />
'''Cement mixer'''<br />
<br />
'''CFL'''<br />
<br />
'''Cill'''<br />
<br />
'''Circline''' circular fluorescent tube<br />
<br />
'''Circular saw''' Saw using a large circular saw blade. Fast cutting, but unable to cut curves.<br />
<br />
'''Cherry picker'''<br />
<br />
'''Chipboard'''<br />
<br />
'''Chisel''' Also see cold chisel, plugging chisel, bolster, <br />
<br />
'''Chocolate block, choc block''' screw connector for mains cables.<br />
<br />
'''Cladding'''<br />
<br />
'''Clayboard''' Clay walling board with paper surfaces. See also: plasterboard<br />
<br />
'''Club hammer'''<br />
<br />
'''Clunch''' a chalk stone<br />
<br />
'''Cob''' Various types of earth based walling.<br />
<br />
'''Cobbles, cobblestones''' small rounded top stones used for paving and roads. Gives a very poor surface, uneven and slippery. Long superceded for most uses, but still used where it is desirable to keep people away.<br />
<br />
'''Cold chisel''' Chisel for masonry use<br />
<br />
'''CO''' conservation officer<br />
<br />
'''Concrete'''<br />
<br />
'''Condensation'''<br />
<br />
'''Condensate'''<br />
<br />
'''Core drill''' see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''Corrugated fixing'''<br />
<br />
'''Countersink''' see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''CPC''' Circuit Protective Conductor, earth conductor, earth wire.<br />
<br />
'''Customer''' Primary source of inconvenience, payments and senseless complaints. Person expecting owt for nowt.<br />
<br />
'''Dado'''<br />
<br />
'''Daub''' earth plaster. See wattle & daub<br />
<br />
'''dc'''<br />
<br />
'''Dehumidifier'''<br />
<br />
'''Denib'''<br />
<br />
'''Diamond disc'''<br />
<br />
'''Die grinder'''<br />
<br />
'''Dimmer''' device for reducing the efficiency of filament bulbs.<br />
<br />
'''Distemper''' lime based interior paint. Removed by washing with hot detergent, making it ideal for detailed cornicing, as it avoids paint build up and loss of detail. Vapour permeable.<br />
<br />
'''Distressed''' Looking knackered.<br />
<br />
'''Dog clamp'''<br />
<br />
'''Dremel''' a brand name, but generally used to mean a very small high speed rotary tool, typically taking t of upto around 1" having 3.2mm shank. Many types of<br />
<br />
'''Earth'''<br />
* Soil. See topsoil, subsoil.<br />
* Electrical connection to earth / ground.<br />
<br />
'''Earthcrete''' Earth plus cement powder. Used to stabilise soil before adding gravel.<br />
<br />
'''Earth leakage''' the flow of current to earth, sometimes via a human. Earth current is often fault current, though not always.<br />
<br />
'''Efflorescence''' Salt coming out of brick, stone or mortar.<br />
<br />
'''Eggshell'''<br />
<br />
'''ELCB''' Device to cut electrical power in the event of certain earth leakage faults. There are 2 significantly different types of ELCB, current operated and voltage operated. Now superceded by RCDs.<br />
<br />
'''Electrocution'''<br />
<br />
'''EML''' expanded metal lath, sometimes called gauze.<br />
<br />
'''Emulsion''' popular wall paint based on PVA, titanium dioxide and pigment.<br />
<br />
'''Enamel''' hard paint<br />
<br />
'''Epoxy'''<br />
<br />
'''Equipotential bonding'''<br />
<br />
'''ES'''<br />
<br />
'''Extinguisher'''<br />
<br />
'''Extractor'''<br />
<br />
'''Felt'''<br />
<br />
'''Fibre cement''' a fibre reinforced cement, usually found in sheet form. Asbestos used to be the most common fibre used, now glass fibre is probably the most common choice. Fibre cement is often loosely called 'asbestos.'<br />
<br />
'''Fibreglass''' plastic and glass fibres, used mainly for baths and roof coverings<br />
<br />
'''Filament lamp'''<br />
<br />
'''Flange'''<br />
<br />
'''Flap wheel'''<br />
<br />
'''Flashing'''<br />
<br />
'''Flat bit''' Low cost low performance easily made drill bit. see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''Flex''' flexible electrical cable. The flexibility results from using multiple strand conductors.<br />
<br />
'''Float glass''' The flat defect-free glass used for domestic glazing today.<br />
<br />
'''Fluorescent lamp''' See [[Fluorescent Lighting]]<br />
<br />
'''Flux'''<br />
<br />
'''Flying freehold'''<br />
<br />
'''Footing''' Nothing to do with dancing.<br />
<br />
'''Framing square'''<br />
<br />
'''Freehold''' Outright ownership<br />
<br />
'''Fuse'''<br />
<br />
'''Gang'''<br />
<br />
'''Gloss'''<br />
<br />
'''Goggles'''<br />
<br />
'''Going'''<br />
<br />
'''Gravel'''<br />
<br />
'''Grinder''' see angle grinder, bench grinder, die grinder.<br />
<br />
'''Grommet'''<br />
<br />
'''Ground rent''' see leasehold<br />
<br />
'''GRP''' Glass reinforced plastic, fibreglass<br />
<br />
'''Gulley'''<br />
<br />
'''Gypsum''' <br />
<br />
'''HAC''' High alumina cement, <br />
<br />
'''Halogen lamp''' a high temperature filament lamp. Popularly used as downlighters.<br />
<br />
'''Hardboard'''<br />
<br />
'''Header tank'''<br />
<br />
'''Heat exchanger'''<br />
<br />
'''Holesaw'''<br />
<br />
'''HTI''' High Temperature Insulation<br />
<br />
'''Hydraulic lime''' a fast setting lime used to make mortar for exposed locations and in permanently wet situations. Sets in wet conditions.<br />
<br />
'''Hydrochloric acid'''<br />
<br />
'''Hydronic''' a heating system that uses water as the heat transfer fluid. Most British central heating systems are hydronic.<br />
<br />
'''Iron oxide''' pigment used to give dull red or brown colour<br />
<br />
'''Japan black''' a tough low cost black paint. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan_Black<br />
<br />
'''Jetty''' building storey jutting out further than its supporting walls. Common feature of medieval wood frame buildings.<br />
<br />
'''Jigsaw''' electric saw with low cutting speed and in most cases poor ability to follow a line.<br />
<br />
'''Joist''' Wood beams supporting floor or wall.<br />
<br />
'''Junction box''' fire resistant box containing connection points for cables.<br />
<br />
'''L&P''' Lath & plaster, a method of creating walls & ceilings.<br />
<br />
'''Lagging'''<br />
<br />
'''Laminate''' layered material. Most often used to describe wood flooring laminate with chipboard base.<br />
<br />
'''Lamp black''' Soot, a formerly widely used black pigment.<br />
<br />
'''Lath'''<br />
<br />
'''Lathe'''<br />
<br />
'''Lead paint''' any paint containing lead.<br />
<br />
'''Leasehold''' see ground rent<br />
<br />
'''LED'''<br />
<br />
'''Lime'''<br />
<br />
'''Limelite''' a cement plaster containing cement, lime and chopped fibre. Not a recommended substitute for lime plaster or lime mortar.<br />
<br />
'''Lime putty''' a putty made by mixing bagged (hydrated non-hydraulic) lime and water, and storing while excluding air. Mainly used to make mortars & paints.<br />
<br />
'''Limestone'''<br />
<br />
'''Limewash''' Paint made from lime putty & water. Suitable for ceilings.<br />
<br />
'''Linseed''' normally refers to linseed oil, extracted from flax seeds and used in a minority of paints, mastics, varnishes and putties.<br />
<br />
'''Lip & spur''' a drill bit for wood that doesn't wander. see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''M3, M4, M6, M8, M10, M12''' metric bolt thread types. The number after the 'M' is the width of the thread in millimetres.<br />
<br />
'''M3.5''' the size & thread of screws used with standard UK electrical accessory faceplates.<br />
<br />
'''Marble''' A pretty but soft stone.<br />
<br />
'''Matt'''<br />
<br />
'''MCB''' miniature circuit breaker, a pushbutton device that replaces a fuse<br />
<br />
'''MDF'''<br />
<br />
'''Melamine''' A plastic. Usually refers to melamine veneered chipboard.<br />
<br />
'''Meter''' see multimeter, water meter, <br />
<br />
'''Machine oil''' oil for lubricating machinery & preventing rust on steel goods during storage. Mineral oil.<br />
<br />
'''Masking tape'''<br />
<br />
'''Masonry drill''' Drill bit for masonry. see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''MICC''' mineral insulated cable. A very high temperature rated rigid cable. Widely used for fire critical circuits. Known as pyro. Hygroscopic.<br />
<br />
'''Mineral oil''' see machine oil. Baby oil is mineral oil.<br />
<br />
'''Minton''' a well known type of Victorian quality tiling<br />
<br />
'''Mitre saw'''<br />
<br />
'''Monkey wrench'''<br />
<br />
'''Mortar rake''' see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''Mortgage'''<br />
<br />
'''Mosaic''' Tiling typically made with lots of very small tiles.<br />
<br />
'''Moulding plane'''<br />
<br />
'''Multimeter''' electrical meter that measures volts, amps and ohms. A worthwhile purchase for almost any diyer.<br />
<br />
'''Nail fatigue, nail sickness''' When many nails are corroding through on a slate roof. Causes an increased rate of slate falls.<br />
<br />
'''Nail plate'''<br />
<br />
'''Neon screwdriver''' Simple voltage indicator. It is unsafe to rely on these when dealing with mains.<br />
<br />
'''NVQ''' Not Very Qualified<br />
<br />
'''Oilstone''' grinding stone intended to be used with oil. Some oilstones do not survive long if used without oil. See also waterstone<br />
<br />
'''Olive'''<br />
<br />
'''OPC''' Ordinary portland cement<br />
<br />
'''Paint guard'''<br />
<br />
'''Paint kettle''' small handled paint container.<br />
<br />
'''Papercrete''' novel building material made from paper, clay, cement, lime, and sometimes other materials.<br />
<br />
'''PAR'''<br />
<br />
'''Pargetting'''<br />
<br />
'''PAT''' Portable Appliance Test, electrical goods safety testing.<br />
<br />
'''Pattress'''<br />
<br />
'''Pea shingle'''<br />
<br />
'''PFA''' Pulverized Fly Ash. The ash from coal burning that goes up the chimney. See also bottom ash.<br />
<br />
'''Phosphated''' a tough black non-rusting finish used on some screws.<br />
<br />
'''Picture rail''' Rail normally above head height for hanging pictures. Similar to dado rail but with a different profile and higher up.<br />
<br />
'''Piece rate''' payment per task, not per hour.<br />
<br />
'''Piss coat''' watered down first coat of paint.<br />
<br />
'''Pitch'''<br />
* .<br />
* .<br />
* variety of pine.<br />
<br />
'''Plane'''<br />
<br />
'''Plaster''' An indoor smooth wall finishing coating. Based on gypsum, lime cement or mud.<br />
<br />
'''Plaster floor''' an unusual type of suspended floor made from composite plaster<br />
<br />
'''Plasterboard''' flat sheet of plaster with paper surfaces.<br />
<br />
'''Plasterboard fixing''' Also see hollow wall anchor<br />
<br />
'''Plasterboard nail''' A nail intended for fixing plasterboard. Not recommended.<br />
<br />
'''Plasterboard screw''' screw for fixing plasterboard. Has bugle head to avoid rucking, sharp point to pierce steel framing, non-rusting finish and philips head to disengage from driver once home.<br />
<br />
'''Pliolite''' plastic resin paint for exterior use.<br />
<br />
'''Plug'''<br />
* mains plug as used on electrical appliances<br />
* to fill a hole<br />
* expanding plastic sleeve placed in masonry hole to enable a screw to grip. Plugs made from fibre, wood or metal are also found.<br />
<br />
'''Plumb bob'''<br />
<br />
'''Picture rail'''<br />
<br />
'''Pointing'''<br />
<br />
'''Polarity'''<br />
<br />
'''Pozzolan''' substance that changes the set of lime to produce a harder mortar. Examples include clay, ground tiles, brick dust, trass, flyash. Pozzolan may also be used with cement and allows some reduction of cement use.<br />
<br />
'''PP''' period property<br />
<br />
'''Programmer'''<br />
<br />
'''PU''' polyurethane, a type of glue<br />
<br />
'''Pullsaw'''<br />
<br />
'''Punch'''<br />
<br />
'''Purlin'''<br />
<br />
'''Putty''' a stiff setting mixture. See lime putty, linseed putty, alkyd putty, <br />
<br />
'''PVA''' multipurpose building glue.<br />
<br />
'''Rafter''' Wood beams supporting a roof<br />
<br />
'''Rasp'''<br />
<br />
'''Rawlplug''' a brand of plug<br />
<br />
'''RCBO''' MCB & RCD in one device<br />
<br />
'''RCD''' device that cuts the power if it detects earth leakage.<br />
<br />
'''Reciprocating saw'''<br />
<br />
'''Render''' mortar coating on wall. Usually cement, sometimes lime.<br />
<br />
'''Repair plate'''<br />
<br />
'''Repointing'''<br />
<br />
'''Resin''' tough durable glues, including epoxy resin, vinyl ester resin,<br />
<br />
'''RH''' Relative Humidity. Percentage of<br />
<br />
'''Ripsaw'''<br />
<br />
'''Riser'''<br />
* <br />
* <br />
<br />
'''Rodding''' Clearing a drain with a drain rod.<br />
<br />
'''Rodding eye''' waste pipe fitting that permits rodding access.<br />
<br />
'''RSJ''' also see UB<br />
<br />
'''Rub down''' sand down<br />
<br />
'''Rubble''' scrap broken masonry.<br />
<br />
'''Rubble bag''' heavy duty version of bin bag, suitable for disposal of rubble.<br />
<br />
'''Sand''' see silver sand, building sand, sharp sand, <br />
<br />
'''Sarking'''<br />
<br />
'''Sash'''<br />
<br />
'''SBC'''<br />
<br />
'''Scraper''' paint scraper, cabinet scraper<br />
<br />
'''Screed'''<br />
<br />
'''Scutch hammer''' used for chopping bricks<br />
<br />
'''Scythe'''<br />
<br />
'''SDS'''<br />
<br />
'''SES'''<br />
<br />
'''Set square'''<br />
<br />
'''Setts''' see cobbles<br />
<br />
'''Shed''' garden building, builders merchants, diy merchants<br />
<br />
'''Silicone'''<br />
<br />
'''Silk'''<br />
<br />
'''Sill'''<br />
<br />
'''Slate'''<br />
<br />
'''Socket'''<br />
<br />
'''Soil pipe'''<br />
<br />
'''Solder''' Metal alloy used to join pipes and sometimes wiring. Lead & tin solder has long been used, but is no longer permitted for potable water piping.<br />
<br />
'''Soleplate'''<br />
<br />
'''Solvent weld''' plastic pipe joined by applying a solvent.<br />
<br />
'''Spiral saw'''<br />
<br />
'''Spirit level''' indicates level accurately. Consists of a vial of liquid fixed to a bar. Some indicate vertical as well as horizontal, and some also fixed angles between the 2. Some have a series of vials indicating various angles close to horizontal, such as 1 degree, 2 degrees etc<br />
<br />
'''Spyhole''', door viewer.<br />
<br />
'''SRPC''' Sulphate resisting portland cement<br />
<br />
'''Staging''' Presenting a house to make it appeal to buyers.<br />
<br />
'''Stainless steel''' various types of non rusting steels, which vary in their rust resistnace.<br />
<br />
'''Stilson'''<br />
<br />
'''Stud''' Woodwork in a wood framed partition wall.<br />
<br />
'''Sub''' suncontract<br />
<br />
'''Subsoil''' Soil below top layer, does not contain humus. Does not support plant growth on its own. May be converted to topsoil by mixing in a generous amount of organic matter, such as weeds, grass clippings, paper, food scraps, manure, etc.<br />
<br />
'''Suffolk Pink''' A traditional pink lime paint pigmented with blood.<br />
<br />
'''Sugar soap''' Not edible, does not contain sugar.<br />
<br />
'''Switchbank''' Bank of 2 or more switches. Permits much greater control over lighting etc than just a single switch. Compare 'dimmer.'<br />
<br />
'''SWMBO''' She who thinks she must be obeyed<br />
<br />
'''T&E''' Twin & Earth. 3 core cable used for most fixed house wiring.<br />
<br />
'''Tablesaw'''<br />
<br />
'''Tack rag'''<br />
<br />
'''Tamp'''<br />
<br />
'''Tar'''<br />
<br />
'''TCT''' Tungsten Carbide Tipped. A very hardwearing fast feeding cutting technology. Used widely on power saw blades & masonry drill bits.<br />
<br />
'''Tea''' an implied part of payment for all jobs.<br />
<br />
'''Teeth sucking''' Indication of high costs ahead, usually warning sign of a rip off.<br />
<br />
'''Tenon saw'''<br />
<br />
'''Terrace'''<br />
<br />
'''Terrazzo'''<br />
<br />
'''Thermidistat'''<br />
<br />
'''Thermostat'''<br />
<br />
'''Ties''' see cable ties, wall ties,<br />
<br />
'''Timberboard'''<br />
<br />
'''Timer'''<br />
<br />
'''Timber''' wood<br />
<br />
'''Titanium Nitride''' an extra hard drill bit coating. Gold coloured. see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''Titanium Oxide''' White pigment used in modern paint and bar soap.<br />
<br />
'''Toggle'''<br />
<br />
'''Tongue & groove'''<br />
<br />
'''Topsoil''' top layer of soil containing organic matter. Supports plant growth.<br />
<br />
'''Torch'''<br />
* blowlamp.<br />
* hand held light.<br />
<br />
'''Torque wrench'''<br />
<br />
'''Trap'''<br />
<br />
'''Trass''' <br />
<br />
'''Truss'''<br />
<br />
'''TT''' Earthing system using a local earth rod.<br />
<br />
'''Twist drill''' most common type of drill bit. see [[Drill Bits]]<br />
<br />
'''UB''' Universal Beam. As RSJ, though with minor differences in detail<br />
<br />
'''Underpin''' to deepen a building's foundations.<br />
<br />
'''Upright''' refers to upright timbers, eg in a partition wall.<br />
<br />
'''uPVC'''<br />
<br />
'''Vent'''<br />
<br />
'''Vinyl'''<br />
<br />
'''Voltstick''' Simple voltage indicator. It is unsafe to rely on these when dealing with mains.<br />
<br />
'''Wall plate'''<br />
<br />
'''Wall ties''' Generally metal ties that link the 2 leaves of a cavity wall. Stone or brick ties may be found on some older properties.<br />
<br />
'''Waterstone''' grinding stone intended to be used with water. See also oilstone.<br />
<br />
'''Water table''' The level of groundwater in the locality<br />
<br />
'''Wattle & daub''' woven wood partition coated with an earth based plaster.<br />
<br />
'''Weld cement''' a high strength high price mortar<br />
<br />
'''Whitewash''' chalk & glue paint<br />
<br />
'''Whiting''' chalk powder. Used in paints, mastics, some plaster.<br />
<br />
'''Whitworth'''<br />
<br />
'''Woodchip'''<br />
<br />
'''Woodworm''' any of a number of wood boring insect species<br />
<br />
<br />
==More Glossaries==<br />
<br />
Conservation Glosary: <br />
http://www.trp.dundee.ac.uk/research/glossary/i.html<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Lighting Glossary]]<br />
<br />
[[Listed Building Basics]]<br />
<br />
Nuts & Bolts FAQ:<br />
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/glossary.htm<br />
<br />
Wood finishing FAQ:<br />
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article039.htm<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Corrosion_Inhibitor&diff=1775Corrosion Inhibitor2006-12-27T14:46:40Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Inhibitors''' vary widely in their effectiveness. Some appear to have minimal effect in experiment. A visit to the following is recommended before choosing inhibitors:<br />
<br />
http://82.24.138.95/~john/Inhibitor/index.html<br />
<br />
[[Category:Heating]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Glossary&diff=1774Glossary2006-12-27T14:44:51Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>==DIY Glossary==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Ball pein hammer''' Hammer with ball shaped striking face. Named as a result of indiscrimiate use.<br />
<br />
'''Breeze Block'''<br />
<br />
'''Club hammer'''<br />
<br />
'''Flux'''<br />
<br />
'''HAC''' High alumina cement, <br />
<br />
'''HTI''' High Temperature Insulation<br />
<br />
'''OPC''' Ordinary portland cement<br />
<br />
'''PFA''' Pulverized Fuel Ash, from coal burning<br />
<br />
'''Pozzolan''' <br />
<br />
'''Resin'''<br />
<br />
'''RH''' Relative Humidity. Percentage of<br />
<br />
'''Rubble bag''' heavy duty version of bin bag, suitable for disposal of rubble.<br />
<br />
'''Sand'''<br />
<br />
'''Scutch hammer''' used for chopping bricks<br />
<br />
'''Solder''' Metal alloy used to join pipes and sometimes wiring. Lead & tin solder has long been used, but is no longer permitted for potable water piping.<br />
<br />
'''SRPC''' Sulphate resisting portland cement<br />
<br />
'''Torque wrench'''<br />
<br />
'''Trass''' <br />
<br />
'''Whiting''' chalk powder. Used in paints, mastics, some plaster.<br />
<br />
<br />
==More Glossaries==<br />
<br />
Conservation Glosary: <br />
http://www.trp.dundee.ac.uk/research/glossary/i.html<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Lighting Glossary]]<br />
<br />
[[Listed Building Basics]]<br />
<br />
Nuts & Bolts FAQ:<br />
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/glossary.htm<br />
<br />
Wood finishing FAQ:<br />
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/article039.htm<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Artex_removal&diff=1773Artex removal2006-12-27T14:42:43Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>=Removal Options=<br />
<br />
* Apply wallpaper paste, leave it to soften, then peel off Artex.<br />
* Use steamer to soften, peel off.<br />
* Use artex remover gel.<br />
<br />
=Safety=<br />
Artex made between and contains asbestos. The fibres are bound in the artex thus risk is minimal, but old artex should not be sawn dry.<br />
Removed artex should be double bagged before disposal.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Plastering]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Mould_Resistant_Paint&diff=1772Mould Resistant Paint2006-12-27T14:41:05Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>The best solution to mould is to prevent it. '''Mould resistant paint''' is a good second line strategy. It is possible to buy mould resistant paint, but it is also easy enough to make the paint you already have mould resistant.<br />
<br />
These work with both water and oil based paints.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Finely crush 16 aspirin tablets, it must be completely powdered, mix into 2.5 litres of paint. Let it stand 5 minutes then mix again.<br />
** The salicylate will react with water to form salicylic acid.<br />
<br />
* Add a pinch of copper compound to a can of paint, and mix in. Some copper compounds are toxic if ingested in more than miniscule amounts, so wash hands afterwards.<br />
** If the copper compound is not soluble in the paint base then it must be finely powdered before adding.<br />
<br />
* Add a pinch of alum to a can of paint and mix. For oil paints the alum must be finely powdered.<br />
<br />
* Combine more than one additives for maximum mould resistance.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Paint]]<br />
[[Category:Damp]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Washing_Machine_Smells&diff=1767Washing Machine Smells2006-12-26T03:12:25Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>Smells from a washing machine, mould, or failure to clean well, are normally due to a buildup of dirt, scum and limescale in parts of the machine that are out of view.<br />
<br />
The problem is easily resolved, although sometimes it can take several washes to clear fully.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Prevention=<br />
* Use a washing powder at least some of the time rather than just liquid<br />
* Do a boiling hot wash once a month<br />
* Descale every 2 months with a citric acid boil wash.<br />
* Dont use soap in washing machines (eg washing up liquid)<br />
* Dont use magic no-detergent cleaning balls, or water only washes, these leave grease & muck behind<br />
* Leave the door ajar when not in use<br />
<br />
=Treatment=<br />
Washes with different cleaners below should be alternated, as some tackle dirt & grease while some tackle limescale. The machine buildup is usually composed of both, each one preventing the other from being cleaned away. This is why several washes can sometimes be needed.<br />
<br />
* Boil wash with washing powder (not liquid) - removes dirt & soap scum<br />
* Bleach will kill bacteria and mould, but some machines are damaged by bleach, some aren't, check the instructions first. (Bleach makes some plastics brittle.) Don't hot wash with bleach.<br />
* Boil wash with washing soda - powerful grease remover<br />
* Remove the soap drawer, clean it and the space it sits in.<br />
* Boil wash with citric acid - removes scale. Once the water is boiling, switch the power off and leave overnight. Switch on in the morning to complete the cycle.<br />
* Boil washing with dishwasher detergent also removes muck and grease.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Ultimate washing formula=<br />
After years of experimenting, this is the best formula I've yet found for super cleaning of clothes. It has succeeded where all others failed.<br />
<br />
Each component uses a different chemistry and has its own strengths.<br />
<br />
Use the following together:<br />
* 1 teaspoon ecover washing up liquid<br />
* 1 tablespoon biological washing powder<br />
* 1/4 dose of Ariel liquid.<br />
<br />
<br />
=More Information=<br />
* Don't waste money on scale prevention products.<br />
* Don't use stronger acids than citric to descale.<br />
* Descaling also prevents blockage of the water level sensor tube. This blockage is probably the main cause of washing machine floods.<br />
<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
<br />
[[Category:Cleaning]]<br />
[[Category:Appliances]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1766Water2006-12-26T02:52:43Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>= Rain =<br />
== Roofs ==<br />
== Guttering ==<br />
Neglecting gutter cleaning may result in damp patches on upstairs walls and staining on walls.<br />
===Plastic Guttering===<br />
Plastic guttering has the shortest life expectancy of all guttering types.<br />
===Iron Guttering===<br />
Iron guttering has life expectancy of over a century.<br />
<br />
Do not attempt to take down pieces of iron gutter single handed. They are deceptively heavy, and attempting this is dangerous.<br />
===Aluminium Guttering===<br />
Aluminium guttering may be custom made to suit the building. This gives it a very neat appearance.<br />
===Wooden Guttering===<br />
Wood guttering has a life expectancy of around 70 years if suitable woods are used. Choice of wood species is critical.<br />
== Floods ==<br />
Flooding due to weather and local geography is impractical to prevent, other than by buying elsewhere.<br />
<br />
Houses prone to natural flooding may be fitted with easily washed floors and walls, such as ceramic tiles.<br />
<br />
Basement flooding may be resolved with a sump & automatic pump, or in cases where the house is on a hill often by diverting ground water around the house.<br />
<br />
Flooding by washing machines is usually caused by blockage of the water level sensor pipe by scale. Occasional machine descaling reduces the probability of this occurrence.<br />
<br />
== Damp ==<br />
== Gardens ==<br />
Watering of gardens encourages shallow root formation, leading to the need to water regularly. Thus minimising watering reduces the need for watering.<br />
<br />
Perennials are much less likely to need watering after their first season than annuals.<br />
<br />
= Drains =<br />
==Soakaways==<br />
Disposal of water next to the building is liable to result in damp problems. Water should be conducted ...m away from a building before being disposed of in a soakaway.<br />
<br />
= Supplied =<br />
== mains ==<br />
== wells ==<br />
Wellwater should be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable water.<br />
<br />
Problems with wellwater may include:<br />
* bacterial contamination<br />
* pesticide contamination<br />
* foul water contamination<br />
* high mineral levels, leading to deficiency of another mineral in humans<br />
<br />
=Grey Water=<br />
Grey water is water that has been used once, and excludes foul water.<br />
<br />
Grey water may be used for toilet flushing to reduce water consumption by up to 50%.<br />
<br />
=See Also=<br />
[[plumbing]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1765Water2006-12-26T02:00:26Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* wells */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Water =<br />
<br />
see [[plumbing]]<br />
<br />
== Rain ==<br />
=== Roofs ===<br />
=== Guttering ===<br />
Neglecting gutter cleaning may result in damp patches on upstairs walls and staining on walls.<br />
====Plastic guttering====<br />
Plastic guttering has the shortest life expectancy of all guttering types.<br />
====Iron guttering====<br />
Iron guttering has life expectancy of over a century.<br />
<br />
Do not attempt to take down pieces of iron gutter sngle handed. They are deceptively heavy, and attempting this is dangerous.<br />
====Aluminium guttering====<br />
Aluminium guttering may be custom made to suit the building. This gives it a very neat appearance.<br />
====Wooden guttering====<br />
Wood guttering has a life expectancy of around 70 years if suitable woods are used. Choice of wood species is critical.<br />
=== Floods ===<br />
Flooding due to weather and local geography is impractical to prevent.<br />
<br />
Flooding by washing machines is usually caused by blockage of the water level sensor pipe by scale. Occasional machine descaling reduces the probability of this occurrence.<br />
<br />
=== Damp ===<br />
=== Gardens ===<br />
Watering of gardens encourages shallow root formation, leading to the need to water regularly. Thus minimising watering reduces the need for watering.<br />
<br />
Prennials are much less likely to need watering after their first season than annuals.<br />
<br />
== Drains ==<br />
===Soakaways===<br />
Disposal of water right next to the building is liable to result in damp problems. Water should be conducted ...m away from a building before being disposed of in a soakaway.<br />
<br />
== Supplied ==<br />
=== mains ===<br />
=== wells ===<br />
Wellwater is required to be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable.<br />
<br />
Problems with wellwater may include:<br />
* bacterial contamination<br />
* pesticide contamination<br />
* foul water contamination<br />
* high mineral levels, leading to deficiency of another mineral in humans<br />
<br />
==Grey Water==<br />
Grey water is water that has been used once, and excludes brown or black water.<br />
<br />
Grey water may be used for toilet flushing to reduce water consumption by up to 50%.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1764Water2006-12-26T01:58:30Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* Drains */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Water =<br />
<br />
see [[plumbing]]<br />
<br />
== Rain ==<br />
=== Roofs ===<br />
=== Guttering ===<br />
Neglecting gutter cleaning may result in damp patches on upstairs walls and staining on walls.<br />
====Plastic guttering====<br />
Plastic guttering has the shortest life expectancy of all guttering types.<br />
====Iron guttering====<br />
Iron guttering has life expectancy of over a century.<br />
<br />
Do not attempt to take down pieces of iron gutter sngle handed. They are deceptively heavy, and attempting this is dangerous.<br />
====Aluminium guttering====<br />
Aluminium guttering may be custom made to suit the building. This gives it a very neat appearance.<br />
====Wooden guttering====<br />
Wood guttering has a life expectancy of around 70 years if suitable woods are used. Choice of wood species is critical.<br />
=== Floods ===<br />
Flooding due to weather and local geography is impractical to prevent.<br />
<br />
Flooding by washing machines is usually caused by blockage of the water level sensor pipe by scale. Occasional machine descaling reduces the probability of this occurrence.<br />
<br />
=== Damp ===<br />
=== Gardens ===<br />
Watering of gardens encourages shallow root formation, leading to the need to water regularly. Thus minimising watering reduces the need for watering.<br />
<br />
Prennials are much less likely to need watering after their first season than annuals.<br />
<br />
== Drains ==<br />
===Soakaways===<br />
Disposal of water right next to the building is liable to result in damp problems. Water should be conducted ...m away from a building before being disposed of in a soakaway.<br />
<br />
== Supplied ==<br />
=== mains ===<br />
=== wells ===<br />
Wellwater is required to be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable.<br />
<br />
==Grey Water==<br />
Grey water is water that has been used once, and excludes brown or black water.<br />
<br />
Grey water may be used for toilet flushing to reduce water consumption by up to 50%.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1763Water2006-12-26T01:54:52Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>= Water =<br />
<br />
see [[plumbing]]<br />
<br />
== Rain ==<br />
=== Roofs ===<br />
=== Guttering ===<br />
Neglecting gutter cleaning may result in damp patches on upstairs walls and staining on walls.<br />
====Plastic guttering====<br />
Plastic guttering has the shortest life expectancy of all guttering types.<br />
====Iron guttering====<br />
Iron guttering has life expectancy of over a century.<br />
<br />
Do not attempt to take down pieces of iron gutter sngle handed. They are deceptively heavy, and attempting this is dangerous.<br />
====Aluminium guttering====<br />
Aluminium guttering may be custom made to suit the building. This gives it a very neat appearance.<br />
====Wooden guttering====<br />
Wood guttering has a life expectancy of around 70 years if suitable woods are used. Choice of wood species is critical.<br />
=== Floods ===<br />
Flooding due to weather and local geography is impractical to prevent.<br />
<br />
Flooding by washing machines is usually caused by blockage of the water level sensor pipe by scale. Occasional machine descaling reduces the probability of this occurrence.<br />
<br />
=== Damp ===<br />
=== Gardens ===<br />
Watering of gardens encourages shallow root formation, leading to the need to water regularly. Thus minimising watering reduces the need for watering.<br />
<br />
Prennials are much less likely to need watering after their first season than annuals.<br />
<br />
== Drains ==<br />
===Soakaways<br />
Disposal of water right next to the building is liable to result in damp problems. Water should be conducted ...m away from a building before being disposed of in a soakaway.<br />
<br />
== Supplied ==<br />
=== mains ===<br />
=== wells ===<br />
Wellwater is required to be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable.<br />
<br />
==Grey Water==<br />
Grey water is water that has been used once, and excludes brown or black water.<br />
<br />
Grey water may be used for toilet flushing to reduce water consumption by up to 50%.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1762Water2006-12-26T01:45:35Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* Gardens */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Water =<br />
<br />
see [[plumbing]]<br />
<br />
== Rain ==<br />
=== Roofs and Guttering ===<br />
=== Floods and Damp ===<br />
=== Gardens ===<br />
Watering of gardens encourages shallow root formation, leading to the need to water regularly. Thus minimising watering reduces the need for watering.<br />
<br />
Prennials are much less likely to need watering after their first season than annuals.<br />
<br />
== Drains ==<br />
<br />
== Supplied ==<br />
=== mains ===<br />
=== wells ===<br />
Wellwater is required to be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable.<br />
<br />
==Grey Water==<br />
Grey water is water that has been used once, and excludes brown or black water.<br />
<br />
Grey water may be used for toilet flushing to reduce water consumption by up to 50%.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1761Water2006-12-26T01:43:13Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* Grey Water */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Water =<br />
<br />
see [[plumbing]]<br />
<br />
== Rain ==<br />
=== Roofs and Guttering ===<br />
=== Floods and Damp ===<br />
=== Gardens ===<br />
<br />
== Drains ==<br />
<br />
== Supplied ==<br />
=== mains ===<br />
=== wells ===<br />
Wellwater is required to be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable.<br />
<br />
==Grey Water==<br />
Grey water is water that has been used once, and excludes brown or black water.<br />
<br />
Grey water may be used for toilet flushing to reduce water consumption by up to 50%.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1760Water2006-12-26T01:41:31Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>= Water =<br />
<br />
see [[plumbing]]<br />
<br />
== Rain ==<br />
=== Roofs and Guttering ===<br />
=== Floods and Damp ===<br />
=== Gardens ===<br />
<br />
== Drains ==<br />
<br />
== Supplied ==<br />
=== mains ===<br />
=== wells ===<br />
Wellwater is required to be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable.<br />
<br />
==Grey Water==</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Water&diff=1759Water2006-12-26T01:40:05Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* wells */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Water =<br />
<br />
see [[plumbing]]<br />
<br />
== Rain ==<br />
=== Roofs and Guttering ===<br />
=== Floods and Damp ===<br />
=== Gardens ===<br />
<br />
== Drains ==<br />
<br />
== Supplied ==<br />
=== mains ===<br />
=== wells ===<br />
Wellwater is required to be tested and any deficiencies corrected before being used as potable.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Main_Page/Discussion&diff=1758Talk:Main Page/Discussion2006-12-26T00:23:28Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* Logo */</p>
<hr />
<div>So... as a Wikivirgin, how does this thing work then?<br />
<br />
That's the thing about wikis - they start off as a blank canvas, and you need to add both content and navigation structure.<br />
<br />
As reasonable first step might be to create a set of top level categories, and a set of links to articles under each category.<br />
<blockquote> If articles are assigned categories (with <nowiki>[[Category:Foobar]]</nowiki>) the category pages should automatically list articles assigned to them. --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 13:13, 16 December 2006 (GMT)</blockquote><br />
A good place for this is the main page. You then start creating those pages.<br />
<br />
I'm happy to do that part, if it will make things easier.<br />
<blockquote> Yes please --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 13:13, 16 December 2006 (GMT)</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Structure ==<br />
<br />
I think we already have a basic structure in the existing FAQ. We might beneficially look at importing that into wiki format before worrying too much about creating new content<br />
<br />
Ok, that sounds like a sensible move. I will try to spend some time creating an index this weekend.<br />
<br />
== Using the + tab to add to a discussion ==<br />
<br />
(Only in these 'discussion' aka 'talk' pages.)<br />
<br />
You are prompted for the name of a new section and your contribution is appended to the page.<br />
<br />
'Show Preview' only shows your addition, not the context in which it will appear.<br />
<br />
--[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 11:51, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
== Talk ('discussion' tab) pages -- signatures ==<br />
<br />
Appending your signature when you add a comment, particularly when replying to something already written, makes it easier to identify who's saying what, a la web forums. --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 11:59, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
Here's a reply to the above --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 12:11, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
<blockquote>It would be nice if the wiki kept track of threads and increased the indent for each reply but it doesn't seem to do that (although some users on wikipedia make it seem to do so using <nowiki><blockquote>tags around their text</blockquote></nowiki>). --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 12:02, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<blockquote><br />
This quickly gets messy if you try to hand-craft multiple layers of indentation as you have to put your own <nowiki><blockquote>tags</blockquote></nowiki> before the closing <nowiki></blockquote></nowiki> you're replying to.<br />
<br />
Kids: don't try this at home!<br />
</blockquote><br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Trouble with category pages ==<br />
<br />
I added a <nowiki>[[Category:Plumbing]]</nowiki> tag to the Plumbing page but when I followed the Category: link at the bottom<br />
of the page I got:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Editing Category:Plumbing<br />
From DIYWiki<br />
Jump to: navigation, search<br />
<br />
You've followed a link to a page that doesn't exist yet. To create the<br />
page, start typing in the box below (see the help page for more info). If<br />
you are here by mistake, just click your browser's back button. Preview<br />
<br />
Sorry! We could not process your edit due to a loss of session data.<br />
Please try again. If it still doesn't work, try logging out and logging<br />
back in.<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
If I just 'Save page' with an empty page and again try to follow the<br />
link I get the same error. However if I create a page with some random<br />
text and save that I get correctly directed to the newly created Category<br />
page. I can then edit it and delete the random text, save again and I<br />
still get to the new page (which is what I want). Odd.<br />
<br />
== Logo ==<br />
<br />
Can we have a $wgLogo please, pretty please?<br />
<br />
Maybe one could be made using cooltext.com <br />
<br />
--[[User:Owain-test|Owain-test]] 23:09, 20 December 2006 (GMT)--Owain<br />
<br />
Something like<br />
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Image:UkdiyWIKIlogo.jpg<br />
<br />
--<br />
<br />
<br />
There are 2 problems with that logo:<br />
<br />
1. It's too wide. When I resized it to 135px wide, it became too small to use. The logo ideally needs to be approximately squarish, around 135px wide.<br />
<br />
2. In order for it to look right against the background, it needs to be transparent. I can make the image background transparent, but the effect is far cleaner if the logo itself has fairly well defined lines, rather than a fade.<br />
<br />
Happy to put a logo up if you make one that's about the right shape.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Grunff|Grunff]] 10:23, 24 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
<br />
--<br />
<br />
The input form on cooltext doesn't seem to allow a line break, or to pick transparent bg. Sorry.<br />
--[[User:217.158.132.41|217.158.132.41]] 21:22, 24 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
<br />
Would it work ok if you put the text in 2 lines to make it squarer, and fade to a white background?<br />
<br />
--<br />
<br />
It doesn't do line breaks.<br />
<br />
Would it work if it was rotated 90deg to have the text running vertical, it would push the left menu down a bit?<br />
-- Owain<br />
<br />
<br />
Could you make 2 pics and splice them together?<br />
<br />
== Categories ==<br />
<br />
I find that what turn out to be the useful category headings are often not what I epxected them to be ahead of time. (I manage a few info libraries elsewhere.)</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Main_Page/Discussion&diff=1756Talk:Main Page/Discussion2006-12-24T23:49:23Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* Logo */</p>
<hr />
<div>So... as a Wikivirgin, how does this thing work then?<br />
<br />
That's the thing about wikis - they start off as a blank canvas, and you need to add both content and navigation structure.<br />
<br />
As reasonable first step might be to create a set of top level categories, and a set of links to articles under each category.<br />
<blockquote> If articles are assigned categories (with <nowiki>[[Category:Foobar]]</nowiki>) the category pages should automatically list articles assigned to them. --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 13:13, 16 December 2006 (GMT)</blockquote><br />
A good place for this is the main page. You then start creating those pages.<br />
<br />
I'm happy to do that part, if it will make things easier.<br />
<blockquote> Yes please --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 13:13, 16 December 2006 (GMT)</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Structure ==<br />
<br />
I think we already have a basic structure in the existing FAQ. We might beneficially look at importing that into wiki format before worrying too much about creating new content<br />
<br />
Ok, that sounds like a sensible move. I will try to spend some time creating an index this weekend.<br />
<br />
== Using the + tab to add to a discussion ==<br />
<br />
(Only in these 'discussion' aka 'talk' pages.)<br />
<br />
You are prompted for the name of a new section and your contribution is appended to the page.<br />
<br />
'Show Preview' only shows your addition, not the context in which it will appear.<br />
<br />
--[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 11:51, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
== Talk ('discussion' tab) pages -- signatures ==<br />
<br />
Appending your signature when you add a comment, particularly when replying to something already written, makes it easier to identify who's saying what, a la web forums. --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 11:59, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
Here's a reply to the above --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 12:11, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
<blockquote>It would be nice if the wiki kept track of threads and increased the indent for each reply but it doesn't seem to do that (although some users on wikipedia make it seem to do so using <nowiki><blockquote>tags around their text</blockquote></nowiki>). --[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 12:02, 16 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<blockquote><br />
This quickly gets messy if you try to hand-craft multiple layers of indentation as you have to put your own <nowiki><blockquote>tags</blockquote></nowiki> before the closing <nowiki></blockquote></nowiki> you're replying to.<br />
<br />
Kids: don't try this at home!<br />
</blockquote><br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Trouble with category pages ==<br />
<br />
I added a <nowiki>[[Category:Plumbing]]</nowiki> tag to the Plumbing page but when I followed the Category: link at the bottom<br />
of the page I got:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Editing Category:Plumbing<br />
From DIYWiki<br />
Jump to: navigation, search<br />
<br />
You've followed a link to a page that doesn't exist yet. To create the<br />
page, start typing in the box below (see the help page for more info). If<br />
you are here by mistake, just click your browser's back button. Preview<br />
<br />
Sorry! We could not process your edit due to a loss of session data.<br />
Please try again. If it still doesn't work, try logging out and logging<br />
back in.<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
If I just 'Save page' with an empty page and again try to follow the<br />
link I get the same error. However if I create a page with some random<br />
text and save that I get correctly directed to the newly created Category<br />
page. I can then edit it and delete the random text, save again and I<br />
still get to the new page (which is what I want). Odd.<br />
<br />
== Logo ==<br />
<br />
Can we have a $wgLogo please, pretty please?<br />
<br />
Maybe one could be made using cooltext.com <br />
<br />
--[[User:Owain-test|Owain-test]] 23:09, 20 December 2006 (GMT)--Owain<br />
<br />
Something like<br />
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Image:UkdiyWIKIlogo.jpg<br />
<br />
--<br />
<br />
<br />
There are 2 problems with that logo:<br />
<br />
1. It's too wide. When I resized it to 135px wide, it became too small to use. The logo ideally needs to be approximately squarish, around 135px wide.<br />
<br />
2. In order for it to look right against the background, it needs to be transparent. I can make the image background transparent, but the effect is far cleaner if the logo itself has fairly well defined lines, rather than a fade.<br />
<br />
Happy to put a logo up if you make one that's about the right shape.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Grunff|Grunff]] 10:23, 24 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
<br />
--<br />
<br />
The input form on cooltext doesn't seem to allow a line break, or to pick transparent bg. Sorry.<br />
--[[User:217.158.132.41|217.158.132.41]] 21:22, 24 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
<br />
Would it work ok if you put the text in 2 lines to make it squarer, and fade to a white background?<br />
<br />
== Categories ==<br />
<br />
I find that what turn out to be the useful category headings are often not what I epxected them to be ahead of time. (I manage a few info libraries elsewhere.)</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Plumbing&diff=1754Talk:Plumbing2006-12-24T12:03:33Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>I've had copper half buried in regularly wet cement for decades. I chipped a bit away to find no corrosion. Lots of houses have pipes in floor concrete, but resulting leaks are very rare.<br />
<br />
(Reply to anonymous contributor)<br />
That's a bit like saying my Auntie Elsie smoked 60 a day all her life and didn't get lung cancer, heart disease etc and therefore it's a myth that smoking is harmful. FWIW I have several times seen copper pipes buried in concrete that are corroding. It's generally accepted that this may happen and that it is bad practice to install pipework this way (illegal in the case of gas), so I've changed the text to indicate this.<br />
<br />
--[[User:John Stumbles|John Stumbles]] 11:04, 24 December 2006 (GMT)<br />
<br />
Millions of houses have copper in concrete, but corrosion leaks are rare, smoking deaths are common. Not comparable.<br />
<br />
The prime reason for denso et al is thermal expansion rather than corrosion. Copper carrying hot water in concrete can pull soldered joints apart or break itself as it expands and the conrete doesn't. There was a thread debating this in ukdiy recentishly.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Tool_Theft&diff=1749Tool Theft2006-12-24T03:04:52Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Tool theft''' is a problem. Here are some measures that can prevent it in some cases.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Burn your postcode into plastic handles very deeply using a soldering iron.<br />
<br />
* Dip tool handles into a tasteless and thus uncommon colour of gloss paint.<br />
<br />
* Use a 'no tools left on vehicle at night' sign.<br />
<br />
* Carry some very old, very tatty or cheapskate tools among your toolbox, and arrange so these are the most visible items.<br />
<br />
* Use a toolbox that suggests not enough money to buy a new box or good tools. It might for example be in visibly poor condition, or evidently repaired when most would buy a new one.<br />
<br />
* Use a UV visible marker to mark tools and other goods.<br />
<br />
* Display a neighbourhood watch sign in your window.<br />
<br />
* Display a 'goods security marked' sign in your window.<br />
<br />
* Record make, model & serial number of power tools, this increases chances of police recovery & successful prosecution.<br />
<br />
* Never leave tools unattended outdoors. It may be obvious, but it still happens, and is asking for trouble. Insurance is unlikely to pay out on such losses.<br />
<br />
* Bring your house security upto a good standard to discourage burglaries.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Security]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Drill_bit&diff=1748Drill bit2006-12-24T03:00:29Z<p>62.253.32.4: /* Screw Tip Flat Bits */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''There are many types of drill bit used in construction and DIY. Using the right bit for the job can save a lot of time and make a hard job easy. '''<br />
<br />
<br />
=Where do I start?=<br />
If you need to start from scratch, a good starting place is a set of universal twist drills or titanium twist drills for wood, metal and plastic, and a set of TCT masonry drills for brick, block, concrete and mortar.<br />
<br />
If you want better drilling performance in wood you could add a set of lip & spur bits.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Types of Drill Bit=<br />
Here are the bit types generally used in DIY, roughly in order of popularity.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Twist Drills==<br />
General purpose bits for drilling wood, plastic, steel etc. Twist drills have angles suited to drilling steel, but the cutting angles and geometry are not ideal for most other materials. Will drill a wide range of materials, but not with particularly good performance.<br />
<br />
Using more specialised bits with cordless tools considerably increases the number of holes that can be drilled per charge, as universal twist drills are not well matched to most materials and thus have low energy efficiency.<br />
<br />
When drilling larger holes, it is usually recommended to drill a small hole first, then enlarge it with a bigger bit. This is because twist drills have an area at the centre of the bit which gives poor drilling performance, and the bigger the bit the bigger is this dead zone.<br />
<br />
==TCT Masonry Bits==<br />
Masonry bits drill brick, block, stone & mortar. Soft workpieces only need rotary drilling. Medium hardness workpieces will need hammer action as a minimum. Hard workpieces will need SDS.<br />
<br />
Often supplied with a dot of red paint on the tip. (why?)<br />
<br />
These masonry bits work by crushing a small area of the workpiece rather than by cutting it. Hence it is not necessary for the tip to have a cutting edge. Used bits are often entirely blunt, but still function satisfactorily.<br />
<br />
==Lip & Spur Wood Bits==<br />
These bits have a central point plus cutting edges angled in the opposite direction to universal twist drills. They stay centred in wood, don't wander, and drill wood faster and with less energy than universal twist drills. They also drill holes a little cleaner than universal twist drills.<br />
<br />
Lip & Spur bits do not drill metal or most plastics.<br />
<br />
==Countersink==<br />
A countersink drills a shallow recess for a screwhead. There are several types of countersink, such as star, rose, snail...<br />
<br />
A hexagonal shaft countersink enables quicker changes than round shanked, saving time. Unlike most hex drill bits, hex countersinks are no weaker than round shanked ones.<br />
<br />
A large twist drill can be used as a countersink if necessary, although the profile of the recess will not be an accurate match for screw heads.<br />
<br />
HSS countersinks outlast carbon steel.<br />
<br />
<br />
==SDS Bits==<br />
These are heavy duty TCT masonry bits with SDS fitting. SDS bits do not fit conventional chucks. SDS drills with SDS masonry bits produce drilling performance far beyond rotary only drills or the older hammer drills. New users are usually surprised at how much better the performance is.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Titanium or TiN Bits==<br />
A thin superhard Titanium Nitride coating is applied to twist drills to make them stay sharp longer. These have a gold coloured finish. Performance when new is as twist drills, but performance does not fall off as much over time, due to the hard coating.<br />
<br />
The coating also gives lower friction than bare steel.<br />
<br />
TiN bits can be resharpened once blunt, but will lose their advantage when reground.<br />
<br />
These use less energy than plain HSS bits, so are an advantage compared to HSS bits with cordless drills. For drilling wood, better bit types are available.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Flat Bits==<br />
Flat bits are low cost low performance drills, and create slightly rough holes in wood. Their low cost makes them most useful for large holes, where other bit types become expensive.<br />
<br />
Flat bits can be made by cutting bar to size, or heating & hammering. They are the easiest of all drill types to make and the cheapest to buy.<br />
<br />
Flat bits tend to produce entry surface splintering, make a hole with rough sides, and make a mess of the exit side. If the leading point is allowed to break through they are prone to becoming offcentre during drilling, causing severe vibration and sometimes damage to the sides of the hole. Some of these problems can be avoided by placing scrap wood under the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Useful where neatness of hole is unimportant, and better quality bits would be an unnecessary cost.<br />
Drilling progress is slower than with other types, so flat bits are not best suited to drilling large numbers of holes, nor to cordless use.<br />
<br />
It is not possible to use a flat bit to enlarge an already existing hole unless the hole is first plugged.<br />
<br />
Flat bits need a certain amount of pressure to begin drilling, but too much pressure can cause them to jam or throw. Apply enough pressure but not too much.<br />
<br />
==Augers==<br />
Very low speed high torque threaded cutting wood bits. Well suited to hand drilling with a brace, but can be handled by most electric drills, though not all. Augers produce a cleaner hole than most drills.<br />
<br />
Augers for drilling earth are also available, and maybe be powered by hand or low speed machine. Prone to jamming.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Hex drill bits==<br />
hexagonal based drill bit sets can be changed by nothing more than pulling one out and slotting another in. This is a real plus for some jobs. However the strength of the bit to base bond is typically weak, making them only suited to light work.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Multi Angle Drill Bits==<br />
MAD bits can drill curved wide holes.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Pointed flat bits==<br />
Broken bits are quickly and easily ground to a pointed flat bit shape. No particulr skill is needed. These dont cut as well as twist drills, but if your bit breaks during a job, these are much quicker than going to the shop for another bit.<br />
<br />
Flat bits have a smaller working pressure range than most bits. Too little pressure and it doesnt drill, too much and it sinks too quickly and jams.<br />
<br />
<br />
==3 for £1 long drill bits==<br />
These bits are typically crude imitations of twist drills, and consist of a metal rod with a small piece of steel attached across the top. Scrape marks on the rod imitate a twist drill. Method of working is like a blunt flat bit, except that the flat tip wears away very quickly in use.<br />
<br />
These junk grade bits sometimes tempt diyers that only need to drill one hole, and assume the bits will do the task. Disappointment normally ensues. Such bits are for all practical purposes non-performers. As an example, one hole in soft brick took around 8 regrinds just to drill the one hole, and the job was hard going and took nearly an hour. An SDS did the 2nd hole in under a minute, effortlessly.<br />
<br />
Ideal for drilling butter and soft cheeses.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Variable drill bits==<br />
These are typically a flat bit with an extendable cutting arm to change the hole width. Low performance bits, but one bit covers a range of hole sizes.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Screw Tip Flat Bits==<br />
These are flat bits with a screw threaded point which helps feed the drill. They also have peripheral leading cutting edges in an attempt to improve cutting performance.<br />
<br />
They might work better at very low speeds, but in power tools performance is still poor, and the screw thread is prone to grabbing the wood and feeding much too fast. Grabbing can be reduced by predrilling a small pilot hole, blunting the screw tip, or by simply not choosing these bits.<br />
<br />
==Hinge Drill Bits== <br />
?correct name?<br />
These drill wide shallow holes in chipboard for fitting recessed hinges. Used for kitchen unit fitting.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Tile & Glass Bits==<br />
Abrasive angled flat bits for holing glass, tile and other ceramics.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Multi Material SDS Bits==<br />
These SDS bits drill metal as well as brick, block and concrete. Used for drilling reinforced concrete.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Rebar drills==<br />
These drill rebar, and are an alternative to bolt croppers. The bit shape helps hold the bit in place. Useful for larger sizes of rebar.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Steep Angle Twist Drills==<br />
Twist drill bits can be reground with steep cutting angles to make a bit that will drill wood very much faster than standard twist drills, and with much less force and much lower energy use. Unlike universal twist drils, these bits have minimal or no wander.<br />
<br />
These bits give much better performance in wood than universal twist drills, lip & spur bits, or any other of the commonly found wood bits. However I've yet to see anywhere selling them ready made, so unless anyone spots them for sale, these bits are diy only.<br />
<br />
These bits are not suitable for drilling metal or other hard subtances. The bits are weaker than standard twist drills, and must never be pushed. This is not a problem as they drill quickly and easily, even where standard twist drills struggle. I've seen a frustrated twist drill user try one of these and cut through the once difficult workpiece quickly and easily.<br />
<br />
Their disadvantage compared to standard twist drills is that they are not abuse proof. If pushed hard during drilling they can break. If used to drill steel they're likely to chip or break.<br />
<br />
These bits cost nothing, because they can be made just as well from worn, blunt, broken or badly ground bits as new bits.<br />
<br />
Concerns have been expressed by some that the bits might be liable to jam or make oversize holes, but having used them for a few years I've never had any such problem.<br />
<br />
They should not be given to people liable to abuse them, as they have no abuse tolerance.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Selection Packs==<br />
There are many large selection packs of drill bits available, typically bundled with power tools, and often sporting well known brandnames. Unfortunately these packs are often of poor quality, despite the brand names.<br />
<br />
Twist drills that don't function adequately can usually be reground to make them work properly.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Bit types less often used for DIY & construction=<br />
<br />
<br />
==2 in 1 & 3 in 1 bits==<br />
<br />
A single bit can drill pilot and clearance hole in one go, if it has different widths at different points in its length. When many identical holes need drilling, these bits save much time.<br />
<br />
One can produce these bits by taking a long bit and grinding part of it down to the smaller size. Grinding can be done with an angle grinder and drill. The bit must be rotating while its ground. Grit discs work better than diamond in some cases.<br />
<br />
In use it should be borne in mind that the drill is long and relatively thin, and that the flutes of the thinner section are shallower than normal. Do not push hard, and clear the bit more often than with a standard bit.<br />
<br />
It is posible to bolt a hollowed piece of metal onto the drill bit to act as a countersink. Where the screw meets the drillbit, a small notch should be ground onto the bit to avoid the countersink sliding.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Extra Hard Drill bits==<br />
Most drill bits are HSS, but this is not hard enough for some tasks. For specialist work there are drill bits made from various harder materials available. examples include solid carbide, cobalt, and others.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Cone drill bit==<br />
Cone bits are fat cone shaped bits. They enable drilling of a wide range of hole sizes with one bit in sheet materials.<br />
<br />
Cone bits come in cone and stepped cone shapes. Stepped cones give straight sides to the holes, but are restricted to the preset step sizes. <br />
<br />
With a stepless cone, applying the it to both sides of the hole halves the variation of the hole width.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mortar rake==<br />
These abrasive grit bits fit an angle grinder, and cut sideways as well as down. Usually used as mortar rakes, they can also drill holes in hard substances such as cast iron. With grit on the sides of the bit as well as tip, hole size and shape can be poor if not carefully controlled.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Manual Hammer Drill== <br />
There are 2 types of unpowered hammer drill.<br />
<br />
One is a metal tube with coarse teeth. Hammer once into brickwork, rotate, hammer, and repeat until done. A forerunner of the modern electric hammer drill, these are not much used now. If needed one can be made from a piece of scaffold pole or other suitable steel tube. They work well with soft bricks and large holes. Cost is much lower than abrasive holesaws.<br />
<br />
As these are often home made bits using unhardened mild steel, they blunt quickly. The harder they're hammered, the faster they blunt.<br />
<br />
The other type is just a cold chisel. Hammer, rotate a little, hammer, repeat. Better suited to smaller holes in soft substrates. The hole size and shape is not as well controlled as the above type. Better quality powered drill bits in these sizes are readily available and not too expensive, which limits the use of these basic old bits.<br />
<br />
A standard masonry bit can be used by hand in this way too, though they rarely are. This should only be done with shallow holes, or jamming is likely.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mortice bits==<br />
Mortice bits drill square holes. They must be used in a morticing machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Starcutter bits==<br />
For large holes in... ?<br />
<br />
<br />
==Blacksmith's drills==<br />
Large twist drills with reduced shank size. Same shank size across the range enables quicker bit changes.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Needle drills==<br />
These remove heavy limescale encrustation without having too much effect on underlying metalwork. The needles use hammer action, and do not rotate. More used in municipal waterworks than domestic situations.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Paper drills==<br />
These are sharp metal tubes for holing paper, leather & rubber.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Hammer drilling==<br />
Masonry bits and SDS bits are designed for hammer drilling. Most other bit types used at home are not.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Modifying Drill Bits=<br />
<br />
==Damaged bits==<br />
Blunt or malfunctioning twist drills can be reground with a bench grinder, or with suitable care with an angle grinder.<br />
<br />
Rusty Drills can be cleaned using a wire wheel.<br />
Bent bits can sometimes be cut to give a shorter straight bit.<br />
<br />
Broken bits can be reground to make stubby bits. These are handy where access is tight. Grinding can be done by hand (slow), by bench grinder (for twist drills) or by angle grinder (with precautions). <br />
<br />
<br />
==Converting Augers to powered use==<br />
Older hand drilling augers can be used in electric drills, but the centre screw tends to feed too fast, causing a need for excessive torque. This can be improved by blunting the end of the central feedscrew.<br />
<br />
With 2 cutting edges they will still require more torque than augers designed for electric drills, but are quite workable nonetheless.<br />
<br />
Augers with a tapered square base designed for a brace can be used in electric drills if the tapered section is cut off. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==Making steep angle twist drills==<br />
An angle grinder is required, as a bench grinder wheel can not reach all the necessary parts of the bit. Angle grinders produce too much heat in the workpiece if used continuously, so must be used gently for 10 or 20 seconds, then the bit cooled. Use very gentle pressure only, more will simply overheat and soften the metal, and ruin the bit. With a little practice the bits can be made in a minute each.<br />
<br />
Its fair to say not everyone manages to get these bits right, but with a damaged bit you've got nothing to lose.<br />
<br />
Always use [[goggles|indirect vent]] [[goggles]] and ear defenders with angle grinders, and keep your face out of the plane of the wheel, which is where the bits go at high speed if the disc breaks.<br />
<br />
Using a grinding disc or bench grinder, create the outline shape of the cutting end, ensuring the 2 shoulders are symmetrical.<br />
<br />
Using a metal grit cutting disc, put the disc into the flutes at the tip to remove the majority of the width of the centre metal at the tip only.<br />
<br />
Use a grinding disc or bench grinder to create the steeper cutting edges. Dont forget to very gently clean the flute side of the cutting edge to remove burr before the last grind. This requires a cutting disc.<br />
<br />
Remove much of the metal behind the cutting edges so all the appled pressure will be on the cutting edge.<br />
<br />
If I ever get another camera with macro ability you may be able to see what I'm talking about. The result is the fastest drill in the west, ideal for wood drilling and cordless use.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=See also:=<br />
[[Holesaws]]<br />
<br />
[[Drill Sharpening]]<br />
<br />
[[Punch]]<br />
<br />
[[Spiral saw]]<br />
<br />
Laser<br />
<br />
[[Drill saws]]<br />
<br />
Reamers<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
NT 2006<br />
<br />
Forstner, sawtooth bits, dowel drills</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sanding_Mouldings&diff=1747Sanding Mouldings2006-12-24T02:59:10Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>How do you sand wood moulding shapes?<br />
<br />
# Cover the moulding with cling film or similar<br />
# Press car body filler firmly onto the cling film and let it set.<br />
# Cut any irregular ends off the set block of filler.<br />
<br />
You now have a sanding block the shape of the moulding. <br />
<br />
[[Category:Wood]]<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Parallel_Pliers&diff=1746Parallel Pliers2006-12-24T02:57:37Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Parallel Pliers''' are not often seen on building sites or diy jobs, despite their utility. Parallel Pliers give much greater grip on nuts and other flat objects than conventional pliers or waterpump pliers. Nuts that were simply impossible to undo with large standard pliers were quickly and easily undone with smaller parallel pliers.<br />
<br />
The downside of small sales volume is that most tool outlets don't stock them at all, and when found they're not cheap. However if you need a tool that will undo all sorts of things with ease, they're a good investment.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Superhard_Drills&diff=1745Superhard Drills2006-12-24T02:56:07Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>Presented in order of increasing hardness:<br />
<br />
<br />
'''HSS''' Standard drill bits are HSS.<br />
<br />
'''Titanium Nitride''' or TiN. A gold coloured coating applied to HSS bits. (Not sure if this is the correct position for TiN coated drills on the list) Good for drilling aluminium, which sticks to HSS.<br />
<br />
'''Cobalt''' drill bits. These can be used for drilling out broken HSS drill bits. They are also used for drilling stainless steel, but stainless is liable to blunt them.<br />
<br />
'''C 1150''' with short flutes and long shank.<br />
<br />
'''D 200''' twist drills look like ordinary HSS drills, but are hard enough for reliable service with stainless steel.<br />
<br />
'''Solid tungsten carbide''' drill. Hard enough to drill through screw extractors.<br />
<br />
'''Diamond''' drills are the hardest of all.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=File_talk:UkdiyWIKIlogo.jpg&diff=1744File talk:UkdiyWIKIlogo.jpg2006-12-24T01:30:44Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
<hr />
<div>This image was produced by me using cooltext.com and may be used freely.<br />
<br />
<br />
I like it.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Routing&diff=1743Routing2006-12-24T01:28:09Z<p>62.253.32.4: Disambiguation created, Routing moved to Network Routing</p>
<hr />
<div>=This is a Disambiguation page=<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Network Routing]]<br />
<br />
Wood Routing<br />
<br />
Electrical Cable Routing<br />
<br />
Routers, power tools</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Routing&diff=1741Routing2006-12-24T01:24:24Z<p>62.253.32.4: Routeing comment, see talk page</p>
<hr />
<div>This is a page about routing.<br />
<br />
== IPv4 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
== IPv6 ==<br />
== Routing Protocols ==<br />
=== RIP ===<br />
=== BGP ===<br />
<br />
:-)</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Routing&diff=1740Talk:Routing2006-12-24T01:23:29Z<p>62.253.32.4: Routing or Routeing</p>
<hr />
<div>May I suggest moving this article to 'Network Routing' and making 'Routing' a disambiguation page with links to<br />
network routing<br />
cable routing<br />
wood routing<br />
<br />
== Routing or Routeing ==<br />
<br />
http://www.google.com/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=define:+routing&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8<br />
No definitions were found for routeing.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Plumbing&diff=1739Plumbing2006-12-24T01:18:39Z<p>62.253.32.4: concrete corrosion, incl pushfit, spellings</p>
<hr />
<div>The art or science of conveying stuff around using pipes. Sometimes metaphorically cf.Internet Plumbing.<br />
<br />
The name derives from the Latin ''plumbum'' through OFr ''plomb'' meaning '''lead''' [ref SOED]. Nowadays lead is almost completely absent from pipework, although part of the traditional plumbing craft training is sheet leadwork.<br />
<br />
== Water ==<br />
In general ''''Plumbing'''' refers to hot and cold water systems.<br />
<br />
=== Hot Water ===<br />
Is made from cold water by <br />
[[Domestic Hot Water Systems]]<br />
=== cold water ===<br />
is best for drinking<br />
<br />
== Gas ==<br />
Plumbing for Gas is more commonly referred to as ''''Gas Fitting'''' or ''''Gas Installation''''.<br />
It is regulated by law: specifically the Statutory Instrument known as the<br />
[http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1998/19982451.htm Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998]<br />
== Pipework ==<br />
=== Lead ===<br />
* Lead piping is no longer installed. Much lead pipe remains in use. Most dwellings that are pre-1960 will likely still have the original lead pipe from the street to inside, even if all the downsteam plumbing is no longer in lead.<br />
* In hard water areas, scale forms inside the pipe and prevents water contacting the lead directly. Amount of leaching is very low in these circumstances, and not generally regarded as problematic.<br />
* In soft water areas, scale does not form and the water continues to have direct access to the lead pipe walls. Lead leaching levels are significantly higher than with lead pipe in hard water areas.<br />
<br />
=== Copper ===<br />
* Fishtanks should not be filled with water from newly fitted copper piping, as the water's copper levels are typically too high for fish survival.<br />
* Copper pipes are joined by soldering, using a compression fitting, or pushfit connectors. Some fittings for soldering come ready locaded with solder these are known as Yorkshire or Solder ring fittings.<br />
* Chromium plated copper pipe can connected either by removing the chromium or by using compression fittings which are also sold chrome plated. <br />
* It is sometimes said that when copper comes into damp cement, concrete or mortar the copper will corrode. However it does not seem to be a significant problem in practice.<br />
* Long runs of copper pipe in concrete are liable to break due to differential thermal expansion.<br />
* When cemented or plastered over, denso tape or other flexible wrapping should be used to avoid expansion stresses.<br />
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=== Plastic ===<br />
* MDPE is coloured blue, comes in outside diameters of 20,25,32mm and larger sizes. It is intended to be buried.<br />
* Other types are intended to be interchangeable with copper pipes in outside diameters but have a smaller inside diameter. Some type are less flexible than others. Some types have a laminated wall containing a layer to reduce gas permeability these are known as barrier pipe, used for heating circuits. <br />
* They are usually supplied in a coil but some of the stiffer types can be bought in straight lengths.<br />
* All plastic pipes require the use of the correct support tubes (some are stainless steel others are plastic) at every end. These keep the pipe round and prevent other troubles.<br />
* ABS and PVC are used for waste and drainage pipes. <br />
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=== Iron/Steel ===<br />
* These are used for compressed air and still used for gas supply pipes. They may also be found on older installations as part of the plumbing or heating system.<br />
* They are installed by cutting stock tube to length and then threading the ends with a die. <br />
* A selection of fittings are available for joining the threaded ends together. <br />
* The threads conform to an international standard that is a metric adoption of the imperial British Standard Pipe. <br />
* The letter R designates this so R0.75 means a 3/4" BSP thread. <br />
* The threads can be cut onto a slightly tapered pipe end or parallel. <br />
* Cast Iron is used for older waste and drainage pipes. <br />
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=== Stainless Steel ===<br />
* Comes as a direct substitute for copper pipe but can only be joined with compression fittings. <br />
* Comes in form that is equivalent to mild steel pipe. Used when greater strength or corrosion resistance than steel is required. Used when food grade hygiene standards are needed. <br />
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[[Category:Plumbing]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Talk:Plumbing&diff=1738Talk:Plumbing2006-12-24T01:12:11Z<p>62.253.32.4: The Copper in concrete corrodes myth</p>
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<div>I've had copper half buried in regularly wet cement for decades. I chipped a bit away to find no corrosion. Lots of houses have pipes in floor concrete, but resulting leaks are very rare.</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Cement_mixing&diff=1729Cement mixing2006-12-23T04:20:00Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
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<div>There are several ways to mix mortars.<br />
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In almost all cases the dry components are mixed first, then water is added and mixed in. There are also times when mixes are used dry.<br />
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=[[Cement]] mixer=<br />
very popular, but too expensive and bulky for small jobs. Storage is often impractical. Its often cost effective to buy one for a job then resell afterwards.<br />
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Always rinse out before the [[cement]] sets if you want the machine to last well.<br />
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Can be used to break soft bricks down into powder/pieces which can be incoporated into mortars. <br />
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Can also be used to break glass into cullet. Add the glass and add a brick. Pick a hard brick rather than a soft one.<br />
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Ditto scrap tiles.<br />
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=Paddle Mixer=<br />
Better suited to paints and [[lime mortar]].<br />
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=Board & Shovel=<br />
Mix [[sand]] & [[cement]] dry on board. Make a ring of the mixture. Add a little water in the middle and fold the dry mix in. Repeat until mixed.<br />
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=[[Sand]]pit=<br />
This is a flat board with raised edges. Mix dry materials, then add water and mix in. The advantage is its not necessary to maintain a ring to prevent water escape, so work can be quicker.<br />
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=Bucket & Shovel=<br />
Don't fill too full, or you won't be able to mix. Half full is comfortable, more soon becomes hard to mix. Some tendency not to mix material at the bottom well.<br />
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=Fast Bucket Method=<br />
For small amounts its faster to toss the bucket than mix with a small shovel. Move the bucket rapidly in a banana '''(''' shaped motion, and the contents will go round and mix very quickly. At 2 tosses a second a batch can be done in 20 seconds once the water is added.<br />
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Works best when the bucket is a quarter full or less.<br />
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=[[Tarpaulin]]=<br />
Place tarp on the ground, in a shallow hollow depression if available. Mix dry [[sand]] & [[cement]], add water, then 2 people lift opposite corners alternately to mix the mortar. Quick.<br />
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=Rubble bag=<br />
Mix by kneading the mass of mortar through the plastic. Use of pointed or square cornered tools not recommended.<br />
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=Drum=<br />
A drum with securely fitting lid can be used as an unpowered [[cement]] mixer. Mixing is much easier if you bolt a bar or 2 down the side on the interior, like the paddles in a motorised [[cement]] mixer. Turn by hand or roll along the ground to mix.<br />
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The drum can be whatever size suits you, so size and cost are typically much less than for a powered mixer. This often makes storage practical.<br />
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=Mortar Board=<br />
Very small amounts can be mixed on a mortar board with a trowel.<br />
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=Mega mixer=<br />
For really large batches it is possible to make a giant mixer driven by a car engine. These can be scaled up versions of a cement mixer for cement mortars, or a giant version of a food processor for papercrete and similar formulae.<br />
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Only suited to large [[cement]] mixing jobs, [[papercrete]] and similar mixtures. Making one is not a trivial exercise.<br />
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links to pic of megamixer to go here<br />
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[[Category:Mortars]]</div>62.253.32.4https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Goggles&diff=1728Goggles2006-12-23T02:27:20Z<p>62.253.32.4: </p>
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<div>'''Safety Goggles''' help prevent discomfort, injury to the eye, hospitalisation, the need for surgery, and partial blindness.<br />
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Using grinders with no eye protection is high risk, and regularly results in injuries and trips to A&E. <br />
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Eye injuries still occur every year to people wearing safety goggles, so making the right choice matters.<br />
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There is currently a severe nationwide shortage of spare eyes. No improvement in this situation is expected any time soon.<br />
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=Why Bother?=<br />
* '''Its quicker not to bother''' <br />
It may seem so at the time, but the incidents that too often result will wipe out that time saving many times over, and give you much bigger problems to worry about than saving a poxy 30 seconds.<br />
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* '''I'm OK''' <br />
Often you will be, but sometimes not. Unfortunately those sometimeses aren't much fun. If that's the lottery you want to play, you can, I guess I'm just the fussy sort that doesn't volunteer for pointless misery, pain and surgery. Choosing to have life feel ok is just a habit of mine.<br />
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* '''Oh it won't happen to me''' <br />
Maybe so. But there's no way to know. Your eyes are made of the same stuff as everyone else's. A&E staff are quite familiar with eye injury admissions due to no or inadequate eye protection.<br />
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* '''This'll only take a minute''' <br />
Injury only takes a second.<br />
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* '''I've done this for 2 months without goggles and I'm fine''' <br />
Lucky you. Lets hope your luck somehow continues. Or you wise up.<br />
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* '''I'm quite used to working with risk in DIY, stop nannying.''' <br />
OK - they're your eyes after all.<br />
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It just takes so little (£2 + 30 seconds) to avoid so many accidents, accidents that are sometimes nasty, and permanently damage your life through impaired vision. Its your choice though.<br />
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* '''I'm kin 'ard'''<br />
Maybe, but your eyes are made of the same stuff as everyone else, and you won't half look a prat sitting in the eye surgery unit. You won't look too smart on site doing something that's going to injure you either.<br />
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* '''It'll take too long to go buy goggles, I've got a job to do'''<br />
It takes even longer at A&E. Some days people have to sit there for hours before they get seen to.<br />
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=Types of Safety Goggles=<br />
* '''Direct Vent goggles''' have lots of tiny holes to allow moisture out. Unfortunately they also allow sparks from angle grinders in. These are ok for low risk uses such as sanding, but just not upto it for angle grinder use.<br />
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* '''Indirect Vent goggles''' Have plastic 'knobs' stuck in them for ventilation. The air path through these indirect vents is serpentine, and the chance of a particle following exactly that path is vanishingly small.<br />
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* '''Wraparound safety eyewear''' is available that goes over glasses.<br />
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* '''Non-enclosed eyewear''' is of very limited use in DIY work. Never rely on such goggles when grinding. They may be useful for nuisance-only situations, but not many DIY goggle uses are non-risk.<br />
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=Angle Grinders=<br />
Angle grinders are a particular issue in this area. Every single spark in that orange shower is a red hot piece of metal, grit, or whatever you're grinding. And sometimes a whole lot of them are coming at you thick and fast. Most follow predictable paths, but some don't. Particles at below red heat are still injurious, but not normally visible.<br />
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Direct vent goggles are inadequate because the hot particles are not always spherical and can follow wiggly paths through the air, through the vent holes and into your eye. <br />
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Indirect vented goggles are the solution. Always use indirect vent goggles with grinders.<br />
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Goggles also give some protection against disc breakage and workpiece throwing.<br />
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<br />
=Your Nose is a Hazard=<br />
Having chosen the right goggles, are your eyes safe? Not quite, because goggles don't always stay closely fitted around the nose. If not positioned correctly, if the strap is not quite tight enough or poorly positioned, if you move your head and the goggles move slightly, you've exposed an air path straight to your eyes again.<br />
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Check there are no gaps around your nose before work.<br />
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=Goggles are also a Hazard=<br />
Goggles deteriorate. When you can no longer see clearly, replace them.<br />
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Goggles reduce visual contrast, so don't mix well with poor lighting. Use adequate lighting. Its obvious enough, but does get overlooked sometimes.<br />
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More Keywords: eye protection injury goggles spectacles glasses<br />
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[[Category:Tools]]</div>62.253.32.4