Difference between revisions of "Cement mixing"
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Revision as of 13:56, 1 July 2007
There are several ways to mix mortars.
Very popular, but too expensive and bulky for small jobs. Storage is often impractical. Its often cost effective to buy one for a job then resell afterwards.
Always rinse out before the cement sets if you want the machine to last well.
Can also be used to break glass into cullet. Add the glass and add a brick. Pick a hard brick rather than a soft one.
Ditto scrap tiles.
When used with haired or fibre reinforced mortar mixes these tend to form 'dead mice' clumps of hair.
Board & Shovel
Bucket & Shovel
Don't fill too full, or you won't be able to mix. Half full is comfortable, more soon becomes hard to mix. Some tendency not to mix material at the bottom well.
Fast Bucket Method
For small amounts its faster to toss the bucket than mix with a small shovel. Move the bucket rapidly in a banana ( shaped motion, and the contents will go round and mix very quickly. At 2 tosses a second a batch can be done in 20 seconds once the water is added.
Works best when the bucket is a quarter full or less.
A drum with securely fitting lid can be used as an unpowered cement mixer. Mixing is much easier if you bolt a bar or 2 down the side on the interior, like the paddles in a motorised cement mixer. Turn by hand or roll along the ground to mix.
The drum can be whatever size suits you, so size and cost are typically much less than for a powered mixer. This often makes storage practical.
Very small amounts can be mixed on a hand held mortar board with a trowel.
For really large batches it is possible to make a giant mixer driven by a car engine. These can be scaled up versions of a cement mixer for cement mortars, or a giant version of a food processor for Papercrete and similar formulae.
Only suited to large cement mixing jobs, Papercrete and similar mixtures. Making one is not a trivial exercise.