House Wiring for Beginners
House Wiring for Beginners gives an overview of a typical basic domestic mains wiring system, then discusses or links to the common options and extras.
Further information on options is available in the Rewiring Tips article.
- This article can not practically cover everything.
- The writing of this article may be incomplete when you read it.
- Almost anyone can edit wiki articles at any time.
- Errors and omissions can occur in real life.
- Laws and regulations change over time.
- Interpretation of regulations and law may change over time
- The article may assume knowledge that some readers might not possess
- Unexpected situations may change the specific requirements for some circuits.
Anyone installing wiring should also understand some basic safety issues not discussed here. This article is an introductory overview rather than a complete A to Z on rewiring, and assumes some basic electrical knowledge.
Some requirements are mentioned in this article. These apply to new wiring, and in many cases are not requirements for existing wiring.
The Electrical Glossary may be useful.
Typical house wiring diagram illustrates each type of circuit:
In a typical new town house wiring system, we have:
- L&N tails from the electricity meter to the CU
- A split load CU
- Ring circuits from 32A MCBs in the CU supplying mains sockets. 2 such rings is typical for a 2 up 2 down, larger houses will have more.
- Radial lighting circuits from 6A CU MCBs. 2 or more circuits typical.
- Earth connection from incomer to CU.
- 10mm² Main equipotential bond to other incoming metal services (gas, water etc)
- 4mm² Supplementary Equipotential bonding in bathroom, connecting all the main touchable metal objects together.
Systems may often have some of the following as well:
- Dedicated circuit MCB & cable supplying cooker
- Dedicated high current circuit MCB & cable supplying shower
- 2 way lighting switching for stairs, large rooms & walk through rooms
- Outdoor lighting supplied by a 6A MCB, often via a PIR automatic switch.
- 16A MCB and cable supplying hot water immersion heater.
- A high current MCB supplying storage heaters. Sometimes these are run from the main CU, but often from a timeswitch controlled dedicated CU (with either a separate "off peak" electricity meter, or a dual tariff meter).
The radial lighting circuit has 3 common wiring options, which may be mixed at will:
- "loop-in" (as per diagram above). The circuit is fed to each lamp fitting in turn, and a separate switch wire connect from the fitting to the switch. (this is the most common techniques used in modern wiring)
- Switch loop through (the circuit connects to each switch in turn, and a separate switched wire goes from the switch to each lamp)
- Junction box loop in where the termination and feed connection are does at junction boxes, and wires run to switches and lamps from there.
The Consumer Unit, previously called a fusebox, contains these things:
- A main isolating switch. This switches off everything.
- In most cases an RCD
- A fuse or MCB for each circuit. This cuts the power in the event of high fault current.
- An earth connection block which connects earth to the earth wires of the various circuits
- 1 or 2 neutral connection blocks which supply the neutral connection to the N wires of the various circuits
Split Load CU
The split load CU has the following advantages:
- Some wiring work can be carried out with just a section of a CU turned off, perhaps retaining access to light and power while working.
- Almost all faults can only take out the power to part of the system
- The split load arrangement means both RCDed and non RCDed loads can be supplied from the one CU.
An electrical earth is simply a connection to wet ground. It is used to greatly reduce shock risk.
Sockets may be wired on ring circuits or radial circuits. Mostly rings are used, as they use less copper for most circuit layouts, they have safety advantages over radial circuits (sometimes debated), can provide more power, and cover more floor area per circuit.
Sockets are on 32A ring circuits in most house installations. These use a ring of cable (ie a loop), so that at the CU 2 cables are connected to the MCB instead of 1. An unlimited number of sockets may be connected on each ring.
One ring circuit per floor is a fairly common arrangement, but by no means the only option. Larger houses will generally have more rings than this. It is also common to have a ring dedicated just for sockets in the kitchen since that is where you will find many of the highest power consuming appliances in a modern house.
For more information on rules and practices governing socket circuits, see another unwritten article on socket circuits.
Radial socket circuits are used less often. These use a single cable from CU to socket, then a single cable to the next socket along the line etc. Radials use more copper on most circuits, though less cable on physically long narrow shaped circuits. Connection faults have greater consequences than with ring circuits. (Confusion over the relative safety of ring & radial circuits is widespread.)
Radial circuits are used for lighting. There is one lighting circuit on each lighting MCB. Lighting circuits are usually on a 6A MCB or 5A fuse, though 10A can be used (with some extra restrictions) for large circuits. However if the area served is large, more 5A or 6A circuits would in most cases be preferable.
Fuse or MCB
The power feed cable may go to either the switch or the bulbholder. If it goes to the bulbholder, this is called loop-in wiring, and the ceiling rose then uses 4 connections instead of 3, the extra one being unswitched live.
With loop-in wiring, the cable from rose to switch has 3 conductors, namely earth, unswitched live and switched live. Regs conformance requires that brown sleeving be fit over the neutral coloured conductor at each end of the switch cable.
The following wires are present at the bulb holder:
N -----------------------+--------------------- N to next supply | light L -------------------+---)--------------------- L fitting | | | | L -------------------+ +--- N switch bulb holder SW L ------------------------ SW L
N -----------------------+--------------------- N to next supply | light \ L -------------------+-----)------------------- L fitting | / | | | | L -------------------+ +--- N switch bulb holder SW L ------------------------ SW L
All cable colours are as expected except for the switched live. Light switches are usually wired with standard T&E, which means the switched live wire will be black (existing installs) or blue (new installs).
For a pretty diagram of lightingt wiring, see letsfixit lighting diagram
For more information on lighting see
2 Way Switching
2 way switching means having 2 or more switches in different locations to control one circuit. They are wired so that operation of either switch will control the light(s).
The method is explained in 2 Way Switching
Compulsory Low Energy Lighting
Installing some lighting fittings that are only compatible with low energy lamps is now compulsory during a rewire. These are sometimes replaced by the householder once the system has been signed off.
For more information on compulsory low energy lighting, see
- CFL Lamps
- unwritten article
A lot of metal light fittings require earthing, but those marked with the double insulated square in square symbol do not need an earth connection.
The earth wire in the T&E must be run to all switches, junction boxes & light fittings, including those that are plastic or don't need an earth connection. It is not permitted to borrow an earth or neutral from another circuit.
For more information about unearthed lighting circuits see Lighting Circuits Without an Earth
Single cavity ovens with no hob are more often put on a 13A plug.
Most hobs require their own high current feed, but some are available that incorporate load limiting switching, and are designed to be run on a 13A plug.
Combi cookers (microwave & fan oven, with or without grill) are always on a 13A plug.
All major metal items in the bathroom are connected together using 4mm² green/yellow insulated wire. This is called equipotential bonding. The wire is connected to metal pipes using BS 951 earth clamps. The wire is connected to radiators using connectors. It is permitted to place equipotential bonding connections immediately outside the bathroom if necessary.
- Radiators are bonded with radiator bonding clamps.
- Earth wire is connected to earth rod with a BS7430 clamp.
Bathrooms are divided into 3 zones, with different rules for each zone.
- Electrical fittings in the bathroom in zone 0 must conform to IPX7 or better.
- Electrical fittings in the bathroom in zones 1 & 2 must conform to IPX4 or better.
- Electrical fittings in the bathroom outside of the zones do not need to confirm to any specific IP rating, but must be appropriate for the circumstance in which they are used.
There are also limitations to the type of electrical equipment permitted in each zone. See the Bathroom electrics article for more details.
Until the introduction of the 17th edition of the wiring regulation, sockets were not permitted in a bathroom at all, unless they were either a transformer isolated shaver socket, or sockets to power extra low voltage devices, both of which are permitted in Zone 2 or outside.
For more information on bathroom electrics, see unwritten article on Bathroom Electrics.
For more information on electric showers, see
Exterior cabling is now required to be armoured and uv proof.
For more information on outdoor lighting, see
- Rewiring Tips#Outdoor Security Lighting
- Dimmed PIR Lights
- unwritten article on outdoor lighting
NOTE - The current set of IEE Wiring Regulations, the 17th Edition are more onerous in the requirements to install RCD (or RCBO) protection than the previous 16th Edition. In general, ANY cable which is less than 50mm below the wall surface AND is NOT mechanically protected as defined by the IEE Regulations (which generally means armoured cable [SWA], pyro cable [MICC, mineral insulated copper clad], cable in steel heavy guage conduit or a limited use of highly specialised cables incorporating an earthed foil screen MUST HAVE a 30mA non timed delayed RCD protecting that circuit, in addition to all other requirements. Such circuit protection may be derived from either an RCD protecting several circuits, or individual RCD/RCBOs on each circuit. This statement and it's implications now overrides anything else in this article which was written to the 16th Edition, pending more detailed updates to this article.
New installations will have one or more RCDs.
With a supplier provided earth connection, the most common arrangement is a split CU with an RCD on one side, and no RCD on the other. Generally the RCD side is used to supply sockets and shower, with most other items on the non-RCD side.
With a local earth rod, the situation is different in that all circuits must be RCD protected, since a local earth rod is not a sufficiently good earth on its own. An electrical system must not rely on one RCD only (such installations have proven too unreliable), so 2 RCDs are used, with more than one possible arrangement,
A common option is to have the supply fed through a 100mA time delayed RCD, the output of which goes to a split CU with RCD on one side. This is not an ideal arrangement, as an earth leakage fault on the non-CU side will cause complete power failure, and sometimes inability to reset the power.
For more information on RCDs & RCBOs, see
Neutral Connections & RCDs
The same princple is true for RCBOs, each RCBO'ed circuit needs to have its neutral connected to the RCBO neutral and not elsewhere.
RCD or non-RCD side
- Sockets: RCD (usually)
- lighting: non-RCD
- Immersion Heaters: non-RCD
- Coooker: non-RCD
- All bathroom electrics: RCD
- Outdoor electrics: RCD
A dedicated socket feed for a fridge frezer is best run from the non-RCD side.
lighting is run off non-RCD side.
- lighting on RCDs can cause early lighting failure in a fire, and has resulted in death due to failure to escape.
- lighting on RCD can also cause lighting failures which can result in stair falls, which claim many lives every year.
- lighting results in 0 deaths by electrocution per year, so addition of RCD to lighting is not of value.
Immersion Heaters are run off the non-RCD side.
- Immersion Heaters are a common cause of earth leakage, and can thus make an installation unreliable if on an RCD.
- Contrary to what we were taught about electricity and water as children, earth leakage in immersion heaters does not lead to electrocutions in real life. The reasons why are beyond the scope of this article.
Fixed appliances such as cooker etc are not a significant shock risk, and are usually powered from the non-RCD side.
- Many fixed appliances contain heating elements, which sometimes cause nuisance trips when powered from RCDs.
There is no requirement to RCD kitchen sockets, except where they are liable to be used for outdoor equipment, ie are near an outside door. However, countertop plug-in appliances do occasionally electrocute people, so above-counter sockets are best fed by RCD.
Opinion has always been divided as to whether to feed under-counter appliances off the RCD. They are not a significant electrocution risk, and running them on the RCD significantly reduces system reliability, so I would not RCD them. Some do however. Either option is permissible.
Freezers are best on a non-RCD feed, as a trip when the house is unattended is liable to cause defrosting, and RCDs are prone to nuisance trips. Deaths by food poisoning are orders of magnitude higher than electrocutions, and a non-RCD feed already has several layers of protection against shock & electrocution. The ideal is to put a freezer on its own dedicated feed, then an overcurrent fault in another appliance can not cut the power to the freezer either.
Fixed appliances do not require an RCDed feed.
Kitchens do not need equipotential bonding. Sinks should not have earthing added.
Number of Rings
Most kitchens are supplied by one ring circuit. However this may be insufficient for some larger or all-electric kitchens.
Load & Diversity calcs
Spurs are permitted, but sockets should be included in the ring rather than spurred wherever practical. Spurring is best only used for later additions to circuits.
Restrictive rules apply to number of spurs, cable size, loading and number of sockets on the end of a spur.
Spurring sockets prevents the easy later addition of more sockets in some positions, as a spur may not be spurred off a spur. Spurs also prevent the addition of more sockets at existing spurred positions, whereas a practically unlimited number of sockets can be added where a socket is in the ring. Bear in mind the number of sockets wanted has risen greatly over the years, and can only be expected to rise further.
Number of Sockets
Minimum and desirable numbers of sockets recommended per room are given. Recommended numbers are inevitably a matter of opinion, and are only recommended as a starting point for consideration.
- Minimum: none
- Recommended: 1 double socket for a short corridor, 2 or possibly more in a long one.
- Minimum: 1 double socket at each of 2 locations
- Recommended: 2x double sockets at each of 4 locations (in or near corners) + 1-3 double sockets where PC or AV equipment is to be used. If the room has 2 or more doors, 2 way lighting switches controllable at each door. 4-6x 2A or 5A sockets on lighting circuit.
- Utility room:
- Minimum: 1 double socket
- Recommended: 2 or 3 double sockets, all on ring circuit
- Minimum: no sockets
- Recommended: none. 1 socket somewhere out of easy reach in zone 3 if you wish to use an appliance in the bathroom (eg washing machine or dehumidifier). A shaver socket at the sink is an option, but plugging items in outside the room is probably better practice.
- Home Office:
- Minimum: a double socket at 2 locations
- Recommended: 2x double sockets at each of 4 locations (generally near corners), plus anything from 2 to 6 double sockets where computer or other business appliances will go.
- Small shed:
- Minimum: no electricity supply
- Recommended: if far from the house, a double socket can be useful.
- Large shed:
Complete rewires are now covered by Part P. This means testing and paperwork is required once an installation is complete, if it was not installed by a suitably qualified and guilded tradesperson.
For more information on Part P, see Part P
- Red = Live
- Black = Neutral
- Bare or green/yellow = Earth
- Brown = Live
- Blue = Neutral
- Bare or green/yellow = Earth