Difference between revisions of "Increase Hot Water Capacity"

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Does the hot water run out too soon?  
+
Does the hot water run out too soon? 6 ways to increase hot water capacity are discussed.
  
  
==7 ways to increase hot water capacity==
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===Bigger Hot Water Cylinder===
 
+
The obvious option is a bigger cylinder. However this isn't always a suitable option, eg when renting accommodation, or the best option, eg when budget is lacking. There are other options too.
===Bigger Tank===
 
The obvious option is a bigger tank. Thankfully there are easier ways too.
 
  
  
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The simplest way to increase capacity is to turn the HW thermostat up. This means the hot water is used more slowly, as less of it is needed to bring the shower or bath upto the required temp. Thus your HW lasts longer.
 
The simplest way to increase capacity is to turn the HW thermostat up. This means the hot water is used more slowly, as less of it is needed to bring the shower or bath upto the required temp. Thus your HW lasts longer.
  
Taking this method to extremes, setting the stat to 95C gives a lot more hot capacity, but high temperatures are a serious burn risk, and best avoided.
+
Taking this method to extremes, setting the stat to 95°C would give a lot more hot capacity, but such high temperatures are a burn risk, and best avoided.
 +
 
 +
A lot of electric immersion heaters can be set to any desired temperature, even non-recommended temperatures such as 95°C. Newer immersion heater thermostats can not be set to these elevated temperatures.
 +
 
 +
Gas boiler water heating works differently, and the cylinder stat should be set to a temp below the circulation temp. If its set higher, the circulation pump will run continuously, using power for no gain. The circulation temp varies according to system design and setting, but if the pump runs all day, the cylinder stat is set too high.
 +
 
  
 
===[[Drain Heat Exchanger]]===
 
===[[Drain Heat Exchanger]]===
A lot of heat goes down shower drains. Nearly the entire contents of the hot water tank in fact.
+
A lot of heat goes down shower drains. Nearly the entire contents of the hot water cylinder in fact.
  
A [[Drain Heat Exchanger]] recovers a good percentage of this heat, returning it to the shower cold feed. So less hot water is needed to bring it upto temp, and the tankful lasts longer.
+
A [[Drain Heat Exchanger]] recovers anything up to 85% of this heat, returning it to the shower cold feed. So much less hot water is needed to bring it upto temp, and the hot water lasts longer.
  
By [[:Category:Energy Efficiency|reducing energy use]]  [[Drain Heat Exchanger|these exchangers]] can pay back their cost in under a year in some cases. For information see the main [[Drain Heat Exchanger]] article.
+
By [[:Category:Energy Efficiency|reducing energy use]], [[Drain Heat Exchanger|these exchangers]] can pay back their cost several times over in many cases.
  
  
 
===Move Thermostat Lower===
 
===Move Thermostat Lower===
HW tank thermostats are typically 2/3 the way down the tank, but are sometimes higher up. HW tanks [[:Category:Heating|heat]] up from the top downwards, and [[Water|water]] below the stat will be at lower temp than the stat setting. Often this cooler water is no more than lukewarm, and this could be heated to gain more HW capacity.
+
HW cylinder thermostats are typically 2/3 the way down the cylinder on gas heated systems, but are sometimes higher up. HW cylinders [[:Category:Heating|heat]] up from the top section downwards, and [[water]] below the stat will be at lower temp than the stat setting. Often this cooler water is no more than lukewarm, and this could be heated to gain more HW capacity.
  
Moving the thermostat further down will increase the quantity of hot water in the tank. The implications depend on where the stat is in relation to the heating element or built in exchanger.
+
Moving the thermostat further down will increase the quantity of hot water in the cylinder. The implications depend on where the stat is in relation to the heating element or built in exchanger.
 
* If the stat was high up and is moved to 2/3 down, things will behave normally after moving
 
* If the stat was high up and is moved to 2/3 down, things will behave normally after moving
* If the stat is moved much lower than the exchanger or element, [[:Category:Heating|heating]] that extra bottom zone of the HW tank will take longer, and the top water will get hotter than the stat setting.
+
* If the stat is moved much lower than the electric heating element, the [[water]] may overheat. This needs to be checked for when the stat is moved, and if it occurs the stat needs to be moved back up. Electrically heated hot water must not be left in an overheating condition.
 +
* If the stat is moved much lower than the exchanger in a gas powered system, the [[water]] will not overheat, but the circulation pump will run continuously. If this occurs, move the stat further up to avoid any energy waste.
  
  
 
===[[Solar Thermal|Solar Preheater]]===
 
===[[Solar Thermal|Solar Preheater]]===
A [[Solar Thermal|solar preheater]] produces a batch of warm water which is fed into the tank when hot water is used, rather than the HW tank drawing cold water in as happens with most HW tanks. The result is less energy use and to some extent increased HW output. The amount of output increase will depend on the temperature of the preheat water.
+
A [[Solar Thermal|solar preheater]] produces a batch of warm water which is fed into the cylinder when hot water is used, rather than the HW cylinder drawing cold [[water]] in as happens with most HW cylinders. The result is less energy use and to some extent increased HW output. The amount of output increase will depend on the temperature of the preheat water.
  
There are several designs of [[Solar Thermal|solar preheater]], with performance varying significantly from one design to another.
+
There are several designs of [[Solar Thermal|solar preheater]], with performance, cost, payback and ease of fitting varying widely from one design to another.
  
With any [[Solar Thermal|solar thermal]] equipment, it is strongly recommended to assess any proposed system properly before construction, since many designs are unable to pay back their cost. Professionally supplied systems are worse than [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] ones in this respect.
+
With any [[Solar Thermal|solar thermal]] equipment, it is wise to assess any proposed system properly before construction, since many designs are unable to pay back their cost. Professionally supplied systems are worse than [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] ones in this respect.
  
 
[[Solar Thermal]]
 
[[Solar Thermal]]
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===Use CH Circuit Heat===
 
===Use CH Circuit Heat===
The [[Central Heating]] radiator circuit contains hot water in winter and tepid [[Water]] in summer. It is possible to harvest this heat and add it to the HW, thereby giving greater HW capacity.
+
The [[Central Heating]] radiator circuit contains hot water in winter and tepid [[water]] in summer. It is possible to harvest the heat stored in this water and add it to the HW feed, thereby giving greater HW capacity. How much capacity increase can be achieved depends on the volume and temperature of the water in the central heating circuit, thus this gives greater return with larger houses.
  
 
Ways to arrange this:
 
Ways to arrange this:
 
* With a [[Thermal Stores and Heat Banks|heat bank]] or [[Thermal Store]], The cold water supply goes through a heat exchanger on the CH circuit before going to the HW heat exchanger.
 
* With a [[Thermal Stores and Heat Banks|heat bank]] or [[Thermal Store]], The cold water supply goes through a heat exchanger on the CH circuit before going to the HW heat exchanger.
* With a [[Combination Boilers|combi]], the cold water supply to the [[Combination Boilers|combi]] goes through the CH exchanger, thus boosting the [[:Category:Heating|heat]] output for a while.
+
* With a [[Combination Boilers|combi]], the cold water supply to the [[Combination Boilers|combi]] goes through the CH exchanger, thus boosting the [[:Category:Heating|heat]] heat output for a while and enabling quicker bath filling. Only some combis will accept pre-heated water.
* With a conventional HW tank, the cold feed to the HW tank goes through the CH exchanger.
+
* With a conventional HW cylinder, the cold feed to the cylinder goes through the CH exchanger.
  
 
====Performance====
 
====Performance====
 
The [[Heat bank]] option uses all the CH heat. It is the most effective option.
 
The [[Heat bank]] option uses all the CH heat. It is the most effective option.
  
How much boost the [[Combination Boilers|combi]] option gives depends on system design and [[Boilers|boiler]] characteristics. It may prove to be advantageous to restrict the CH heat exchanger size to ensure the [[Boilers|boiler]] does not modulate at first during HW heating.
+
How much boost the [[Combination Boilers|combi]] option gives depends on system design and [[Boilers|boiler]] characteristics. It may prove to be advantageous to restrict the CH heat exchanger size to ensure the [[Boilers|boiler]] does not modulate at first during HW heating. This option speeds up bath filling by using the CH system's stored heat.
 
 
The conventional tank variant can only benefit from part of the CH circuit's [[:Category:Heating|heat]] capacity. Once the CH circuit drops below usable HW temp, the remaining [[:Category:Heating|heat]] will not be used in a way that increases HW output at the tap. Hence there will be no HW boost in summer. Although capacity is not improved as much, HW recovery times will be improved all year round, and more so in winter.
 
 
 
===Electric Boost===
 
This one is just an idea for discussion, and has not been tried by the author. You should not try it without finding out whether it would work ok first.
 
 
 
Add a 3kW [[:Category:Heating|heater]] to the cold water feed at the shower & bath taps, along with a low temperature thermostat to avoid uncomfortable temperature rise.
 
 
 
If [[:Category:Heating|heater]] flow is restricted, it may be possible to split the feed into 2 parallel pipes, one that goes through the [[:Category:Heating|heater]] and one that contains an isolating valve. The 2 feeds are then reunited. Adjustment of the iso valve determines the flow sharing.
 
 
 
By prewarming the cold feed, less HW is needed, so the tanked HW lasts longer.
 
  
Another variant is to add a 3kW heater to the [[Combination Boilers|combi]] heated water output (or possibly cold water input), and trigger it by a flow switch on the shower & bath hot water feed.
+
The conventional cylinder variant can only benefit from part of the CH circuit's [[:Category:Heating|heat]] capacity. Once the CH circuit drops below usable HW temp, the remaining [[:Category:Heating|heat]] will not be used in a way that increases HW output at the tap. Hence there will be no HW boost in summer. HW recovery times are improved in winter.
  
  

Revision as of 14:28, 7 February 2008

Does the hot water run out too soon? 6 ways to increase hot water capacity are discussed.


Bigger Hot Water Cylinder

The obvious option is a bigger cylinder. However this isn't always a suitable option, eg when renting accommodation, or the best option, eg when budget is lacking. There are other options too.


Higher Thermostat Temperature

The simplest way to increase capacity is to turn the HW thermostat up. This means the hot water is used more slowly, as less of it is needed to bring the shower or bath upto the required temp. Thus your HW lasts longer.

Taking this method to extremes, setting the stat to 95°C would give a lot more hot capacity, but such high temperatures are a burn risk, and best avoided.

A lot of electric immersion heaters can be set to any desired temperature, even non-recommended temperatures such as 95°C. Newer immersion heater thermostats can not be set to these elevated temperatures.

Gas boiler water heating works differently, and the cylinder stat should be set to a temp below the circulation temp. If its set higher, the circulation pump will run continuously, using power for no gain. The circulation temp varies according to system design and setting, but if the pump runs all day, the cylinder stat is set too high.


Drain Heat Exchanger

A lot of heat goes down shower drains. Nearly the entire contents of the hot water cylinder in fact.

A Drain Heat Exchanger recovers anything up to 85% of this heat, returning it to the shower cold feed. So much less hot water is needed to bring it upto temp, and the hot water lasts longer.

By reducing energy use, these exchangers can pay back their cost several times over in many cases.


Move Thermostat Lower

HW cylinder thermostats are typically 2/3 the way down the cylinder on gas heated systems, but are sometimes higher up. HW cylinders heat up from the top section downwards, and water below the stat will be at lower temp than the stat setting. Often this cooler water is no more than lukewarm, and this could be heated to gain more HW capacity.

Moving the thermostat further down will increase the quantity of hot water in the cylinder. The implications depend on where the stat is in relation to the heating element or built in exchanger.

  • If the stat was high up and is moved to 2/3 down, things will behave normally after moving
  • If the stat is moved much lower than the electric heating element, the water may overheat. This needs to be checked for when the stat is moved, and if it occurs the stat needs to be moved back up. Electrically heated hot water must not be left in an overheating condition.
  • If the stat is moved much lower than the exchanger in a gas powered system, the water will not overheat, but the circulation pump will run continuously. If this occurs, move the stat further up to avoid any energy waste.


Solar Preheater

A solar preheater produces a batch of warm water which is fed into the cylinder when hot water is used, rather than the HW cylinder drawing cold water in as happens with most HW cylinders. The result is less energy use and to some extent increased HW output. The amount of output increase will depend on the temperature of the preheat water.

There are several designs of solar preheater, with performance, cost, payback and ease of fitting varying widely from one design to another.

With any solar thermal equipment, it is wise to assess any proposed system properly before construction, since many designs are unable to pay back their cost. Professionally supplied systems are worse than DIY ones in this respect.

Solar Thermal


Use CH Circuit Heat

The Central Heating radiator circuit contains hot water in winter and tepid water in summer. It is possible to harvest the heat stored in this water and add it to the HW feed, thereby giving greater HW capacity. How much capacity increase can be achieved depends on the volume and temperature of the water in the central heating circuit, thus this gives greater return with larger houses.

Ways to arrange this:

  • With a heat bank or Thermal Store, The cold water supply goes through a heat exchanger on the CH circuit before going to the HW heat exchanger.
  • With a combi, the cold water supply to the combi goes through the CH exchanger, thus boosting the heat heat output for a while and enabling quicker bath filling. Only some combis will accept pre-heated water.
  • With a conventional HW cylinder, the cold feed to the cylinder goes through the CH exchanger.

Performance

The Heat bank option uses all the CH heat. It is the most effective option.

How much boost the combi option gives depends on system design and boiler characteristics. It may prove to be advantageous to restrict the CH heat exchanger size to ensure the boiler does not modulate at first during HW heating. This option speeds up bath filling by using the CH system's stored heat.

The conventional cylinder variant can only benefit from part of the CH circuit's heat capacity. Once the CH circuit drops below usable HW temp, the remaining heat will not be used in a way that increases HW output at the tap. Hence there will be no HW boost in summer. HW recovery times are improved in winter.


See Also

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