Difference between revisions of "Install Bar Shower Valve - in solid wall, copper pipe"

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(sealing the holes between tails and board in hollow wall installation)
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Revision as of 01:20, 1 March 2008

Bar-type thermostatic shower mixer valves are cheap and readily available. However they can be fiddly to install. This article describes methods of installing them into solid and stud walls.

Solid Wall

Make outlet elbows as shown with:

  • 3/4" BSP male X 22mm solder fittings
  • 22mm street (spigot) elbows
  • 22mm X 15mm reducing couplers (fitting reducers could be used directly into the elbows instead)

The pipework should be pressure-tested before installing.

Bar shower valve solid 01.jpg

Make a former out of board of approx same thickness as tiles+adhesive will be, with holes at 150mm centres. Fit pipework to shower valve through the former.

Bar shower valve solid 02.jpg Bar shower valve solid 03.jpg

Bend the pipework as necessary: in this case they will emerge under the bath

Bar shower valve solid 04.jpg

Wrap the board in plastic so that it doesn't get stuck to the plaster: it will be removed after the plaster has set.

Bar shower valve solid 05.jpg

Having chased the wall, plaster in the pipework. One-coat plaster is suitable, although browning or bonding should be OK as long as it isn't too stiff to push out as the pipework is pushed into it.

If mortar is used the pipework must be protected from corrosion by wrapping it in e.g. PVC tape, but note that the wrapping material must not be too resilient as the pipework is being used to hold the mixer valve in place.

The ideal is to fill the chases behind the former so that the plaster squeezes out when the pipework assembly is pushed into it and holds the pipework firmly when set. If the plaster doesn't squeeze around the pipework it will be necessary to apply more plaster when the former comes off.

Masonry nails (approx 50mm) driven partway through the former at angles hold it in place while the plaster sets. Ensure that the valve is pushed back tight onto the former. (A couple of hook eyes fixed into the former and some string looped through to hold the valve would do this.)

Set the chromed bezels about midway in their travel along the threaded fittings to allow ajustment to the actual depth of the tiling.

Ensure the valve is set truly horizontally!

Bar shower valve solid 06.jpg Bar shower valve solid 07.jpg

When the plaster is set disconnect the valve and remove the former board. Apply more plaster if necessary to hold the pipework firmly in the wall, and to achieve a surface flat enough to tile onto.

Bar shower valve solid 08.jpg

Connect up the pipework:

Bar shower valve solid 09.jpg

Tile, and fit the shower valve:

Bar shower valve solid 10.jpg

Stud Wall

Make fittings as shown with:

  • 3/4" BSP male * 22mm solder fittings
  • 22mm * 15mm solder reducing fittings
  • 15mm solder * 1/2" BSP male fittings
  • 1/2"BSP * 15mm compression wall plate elbows (If copper pipe were used solder-type elbows could be used.)

Bar shower valve stud 01.jpg

Cut a piece of 18mm WBP ply to fit between studs of the wall. Make cutouts at 150mm spacing in the ply and screw the wall plate elbows to the wood.

Bar shower valve stud 02.jpg

Fix the board to the studs and connect the pipework to the elbows.

Bar shower valve stud 03.jpg Bar shower valve stud 04.jpg

Pressure test the pipework.

Bar shower valve stud 05.jpg

The wall can now be boarded over with the threaded tails protruding through holes in the board to the right depth for fitting to the shower valve after tiling. The gap between the tails and the board can be sealed with a suitable mastic, and/or sealant applied to the conical chromed bezels of the shower valve to prevent water running into the holes.

Bar shower valve stud 06.jpg Bar shower valve stud 07.jpg