Iron wire
Soft iron wire is useful for many tasks, and is most often used for various types of fixing.
Wire sizes
Sub-millimetre
- Sandwich bag closer ties are thin sub-millimetre iron wire in paper or plastic tape, which makes it easier to handle.
- For very light temporary fixing
- Twisted ties tend to come undone when force is applied
- Widely used for securing plants to walls & stakes
- Only occasionally useful for DIY
1mm
- Thin iron wire useful for light duty fixing
- Easily cut & twisted
- Soft & very easily bent with bare hands
- High flexibility means it can be pulled to shape by the final twisting
1.6mm
Tough fairly rigid iron wire where more strength is needed. Easier to handle than 2mm.
2mm
Rigid iron wire. Sufficient rigidity for small parts
3mm
- Useful where greater rigidity is required.
4mm+
4mm and up is rarely used as wire in DIY, and is difficult to work. It is more often used as parts of manufactured goods.
Suppliers
Hardware merchants, DIY sheds and garden centres sell iron wire.
If you don't have the right wire size in stock, sometimes one can improvise.
- Food bag closure ties use sub-millimetre iron wire
- Wire coathangers are usually around 3mm diameter.
- Paper clips are spring steel, making them tough and springy. They can be re-worked to make miniature items, including springs, but are no use for twist tying.
- Copper electrical wire from cables can be used for tie fixing where lower strength is acceptable. T&E cable provides 1.1mm (1mm²), 1.4mm (1.5mm²) and 1.8mm (2.5mm²) copper wire.
Finishes
- Most iron wire is galvanised.
- PVC coated is also available, usually in green for garden use. The extra bulk makes the wire slightly easier to handle, and tied wire unwinds a little easier.
- 3mm wire from coathangers is usually varnished.
Working
Cutting
Cutting iron wire with pliers & wire cutters is not recommended, it tends to ruin the cutters quickly. Small or miniature bolt croppers or fencing pliers are suitable. Aviation tinsnips work well for small wire, and can just about manage 2mm.
If stuck with no suitable tool, iron wire may be cut by making a shallow groove in one side and bending a few times. A groove may be made with hacksaw, blunt wire cutters, masonry chisel, axe, grinder, sharpened flat prybar, etc.
Bending
Sizes above 1mm often need to be pre-shaped, as twisting doesn't pull them to shape. 2 pairs of pliers are used to shape iron wire. With larger sizes, water pump pliers are easier.
Fixing
Iron wire is twisted with pliers to fix it. It may also be stapled to timber with fencing staples.
1mm and below may be given added resistance to coming undone by hooking the ends after twisting under the main wire loop, then twisting again.
To avoid sharp ends being exposed, the twisted section may be folded over on itself so the cut ends press against the item being fixed. Where the wire ends will be subject to handling, a fine file (in good condition) can take the sharpness off the wire end pretty quickly. File the end flat then a single pass around the edge removes the pointedness of the edges/corners.
Uses
Tie fixing
Wire is wrapped round the items to be fixed, and the ends are twisted together with pliers until tight. Overtightening would snap the wire.
Hoses
Iron wire is sometimes used to fix hoses. The result is not as strong as purpose made flat section fixings, but is adequate for many uses, and costs next to nothing.
2 turns round the hose should be used to avoid an unpressured spot where the wire ends leave the hose. Don't overtighten or it cuts into the hose. 1.6mm is good, or 1mm for very small hoses (eg 1/4")
Fencing
A large amount of iron wire is used for fencing. Fencing pliers are a single tool able to tension, twist and cut iron wire, and hammer in staples for fixing it.
Cable threading
Duct tape iron wire to the end of cable or string, and it can be threaded through various restricted spaces. 2mm is good for this, or 1.6mm for short distances.
Where its necessary to thread it round corners and the cavity is rough, making a small diameter ring on the nose of the threading rod enables it to glide over rough surfaces. Close the ring rather than leaving it as a U shape to minimise the risk of it catching and not coming back out.
Small metalwares
Numerous small metal objects can be made from rigid iron wire. Some examples are corner braces, clips, hooks, tool stands, simple hinges & door catches, and many other items, both ad-hoc and permanent.
Picture hanging
1mm wire is good for picture hanging. Where long enough wire will be used for it to be visible, brass wire is preferred for appearance.
Other uses
- Low cost mortar reinforcement (use only galvanised) (small tight loops create anchoring points)
- Retrieving things in inaccessible spaces
- Restraint wires to prevent damage in case of primary fixing failure (eg wall mounted tvs, outdoor structures etc)
- Numerous temporary repairs
- Catenary wires (short minimum cost)
- Fixing various car parts in place
- Making miniature tools for special purposes
Beautification
Appearance matters where goods are made that will be visible in use.
Straightening the wire properly before use, removing all kinks, is essential. Failure to take the time to do this properly will make a good final appearance impossible. This is simply a matter of re-bending all bends, however slight, until completely straight.
Where bent, even smooth curves can be achieved by bending the wire around a round object, and pressing on it to prevent the initial bend deforming the wire outside of the intended bend zone.
Cut ends should be filed flat. This is quite quick to do.
Safety
- Beware of sharp cut ends poking eyes etc.
- Iron wire in unseen spaces can come into contact with live electrical connections.
- Coils of wire are trip hazards.
- Cutting often requires high forces. Keep fingers well clear in case the cutter slips.
- Sharp cut ends protruding from finished fixings present a risk of minor injury.
Cut ends are usually bent out of the way to prevent injury. If necessary the sharpness can be filed off with a few strokes of a file.