Difference between revisions of "Pipe repair"

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You should be able to do it without spare olives, but I've had enough incidences of needing a new olive to always take spares.
 
You should be able to do it without spare olives, but I've had enough incidences of needing a new olive to always take spares.
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 +
First drain the pipework.
 +
* If its mains cold water, turn off the main stopcock and open a tap below the damaged pipe.
 +
* In this case its a central heating circuit, so a garden hose was pushed onto a draincock on the central heating (dip hose end in boiling water then it pushes on easily), and the drain point was opened until pressure reading dropped to zero.
 +
* If its a hot water feed, turn off main water stopcock and turn on a hot tap below the level of the damage.
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 +
Choose your repair option...
  
 
[[image:IMAG2573-3 Mark pipe.jpg|600px]]
 
[[image:IMAG2573-3 Mark pipe.jpg|600px]]

Revision as of 11:15, 29 November 2014

How to repair a leaking pipe - a beginner's guide


IMAG2567-3 pipe oops.jpg

IMAG2574-3 oops.jpg

The homeowner decided to install a fountain by wacking a nail through a floorboard and into a pipe.

IMAG2572-3 Supplies.jpg

Parts & tools - a couple of fairly big screwdrivers were also used as levers to move the pipe a tiny bit so the nut could turn.

You should be able to do it without spare olives, but I've had enough incidences of needing a new olive to always take spares.

First drain the pipework.

  • If its mains cold water, turn off the main stopcock and open a tap below the damaged pipe.
  • In this case its a central heating circuit, so a garden hose was pushed onto a draincock on the central heating (dip hose end in boiling water then it pushes on easily), and the drain point was opened until pressure reading dropped to zero.
  • If its a hot water feed, turn off main water stopcock and turn on a hot tap below the level of the damage.

Choose your repair option...

IMAG2573-3 Mark pipe.jpg

Mark where to cut the pipe. Usually a rotating wheel type pipe cutter woud be used, but here there was no space for one. An oscillating saw was used. A hacksaw is also possible, but avoid putting force on the pipe by twisting it, you don't want the soft copper to distort.

Olives won't fit onto a sawn pipe end, so the pipe ends were filed to remove any external burr. This required getting the file in at a few odd angles.

IMAG2575-3.jpg

Slide nut then olive on

IMAG2576-3.jpg

Add linseed putty.

Some people think you should never use gloop with compression fittings because they were designed to be used dry. Choice is yours, fwiw I find they're more reliable on used pipes with putty.

IMAG2578-3 tighten nut.jpg

Tighten each nut; the 2nd wrench stops the new plumbing rotating. I removed a 2nd floorboard to get enough tool access. I also cut a quarter inch off the side of one of the wooden joist notches so the new pipe could move very slightly to enable everything to line up & the nut to turn.

IMAG2581-3 pipe repaired.jpg

Job done!

This was a heating system pipe. So refill & repressurise heating according to boiler instructions. Add corrosion inhibitor ditto.

Nail floorboard back down, then you can repeat the whole process.

For an emergency repair you can use a Kibosh Clamp