https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Gpeskett&feedformat=atomDIYWiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T18:53:36ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.35.9https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Saw&diff=20073Saw2017-01-30T16:58:34Z<p>Gpeskett: /* Power Saws */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[image:Chainsaw 5849-3.jpg|right|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Hand saws==<br />
<br />
===Hacksaw===<br />
[[image:handsaws875_hacksaws.jpg|thumb|2 hacksaws]]<br />
<br />
* 2 types:<br />
** Junior hacksaw, 6" blades<br />
** Bigger one, 12" blades & other sizes<br />
* Ok for metal & plastic<br />
* A high percentage seem to have blunt blades. If the central blade area is much duller than the ends, time for a new blade.<br />
<br />
===Mitre Saw (manual)===<br />
[[image:Verstekzaag.jpg|thumb|Manual mitre saw]]<br />
<br />
* Wood is [[clamp]]ed to the base<br />
* Frame guides saw blade, keeping it at the chosen angle<br />
* Small captive handsaw of some type cuts the timber<br />
* Quite different to the electric mitre saw<br />
<br />
===Jack Saw===<br />
[[image:Handzaag2.jpg|thumb|Jacksaw]]<br />
<br />
* General purpose construction saw<br />
* Coarse teeth<br />
* Cuts timber, aerated concrete, rigid [[insulation]] etc<br />
<br />
===Toolbox Saw===<br />
* Shorter version of jack saw<br />
* Fits in toolboxes<br />
<br />
===Floorboard Saw===<br />
[[image:Floorboard saw 2573-2.jpg|thumb|Floorboard saw]]<br />
<br />
* Has additional teeth on the top side in an arc near the end<br />
* Can saw into floorboards in situ<br />
* The handsaw of choice for cutting into flat surfaces<br />
<br />
===Bow Saw===<br />
[[image:Bow_Saw_(PSF).jpg|thumb|Bow saw]]<br />
<br />
* For sawing trees<br />
* The coarse peg teeth usually used cut on both strokes<br />
* 2 blade types for dry wood & green wood.<br />
* Come in various sizes<br />
* Spear & Jackson are well regarded<br />
* To counter sap making the blade sticky, oil blade before use, and wash in water when it gets mucky<br />
* [http://groups.google.com/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/9a0f55e18d99e88b?hl=en+f3eea16dfb82940# Bowsaw review]<br />
<br />
===Backsaw===<br />
* Saws with reinforced back, such as tenon saw<br />
* Rigid blade for maintaining cut accuracy<br />
* Limited cut depth<br />
<br />
===Coping Saw===<br />
[[image:Coping_saw_(PSF).jpg|thumb|Coping saw]]<br />
<br />
===Crosscut Saw===<br />
* Saw optimised for cutting across the grain<br />
<br />
===Pullsaw===<br />
* Any saw that cuts on the pull stroke<br />
* Blade thinner than pushsaws<br />
* Less effort for given progress than pushsaws<br />
* Japanese saws are generally pullsaws, Europeans are generally pushsaws<br />
* See Japanese saws<br />
<br />
===Fretsaw===<br />
* Saws with very thin blades used for cutting intricate curves<br />
* Manual fretsaw has a very deep frame & short blade<br />
* Blades are extra fine and a bit fragile<br />
* Originally used for cutting latticework<br />
* Metal cutting blades also available (much finer teeth)<br />
* Spiral blades available, which can cut in any direction but have a wider kerf<br />
* Electric scroll saws are often called fretsaws, and use the same blade type.<br />
<br />
===Japanese Saws===<br />
[[image:Backsaws3.jpg|thumb|Dozuki saw]]<br />
<br />
* Several types are useful for DIY<br />
* Japanese saws normally cut on the pull stroke, enabling use of thinner flexible blades. Less kerf means less physical work to achieve a given cut.<br />
* Tend to cost much more than western style saws<br />
<br />
====Azebiki====<br />
[[image:CuttingWedgeFlush2.jpg|thumb|Azebiki saw]]<br />
<br />
* Japanese pullsaw with teeth on an outward curve<br />
* Plunge cuts<br />
* 2 different TPI blades<br />
* Good for cutting floorboards<br />
<br />
===Gents Saw===<br />
[[image:Backsaws4.jpg|thumb|Gents saw]]<br />
<br />
===Keyhole Saw===<br />
* Very narrow blade for tight spaces<br />
<br />
===Tenon Saw===<br />
[[image:Tenon saw 2572-2.jpg|thumb|Tenon saw]]<br />
<br />
===Two-man saw===<br />
[[image:2_man_saw.JPG|thumb|2 man saw]]<br />
<br />
* aka pit saw<br />
* Long slightly curved blade with a handle on each end<br />
* Double the sawing power<br />
* Very long stroke<br />
* About the only DIYer accessible saw that can cut whole mature trees into lengths<br />
<br />
===Wire saw===<br />
[[image:Wiresaw silverline 1657-3.jpg|thumb|wiresaw]]<br />
<br />
* Flexible saw wire with a handle on each end<br />
* Mostly used for veterinary uses (bones, horns)<br />
* Exceptionally good access properties for difficult cuts, can thread through and round things<br />
* Not expensive<br />
* Coils into a tiny size, one could carry 10 in a pocket easily<br />
* Not stocked by many DIY tool [[suppliers]]<br />
* A popular tool in survival kits due to tiny size<br />
* Note the silverline one is not very flexible, and breaks if coiled.<br />
<br />
===Tile saw===<br />
[[image:rodsaw 1640-4.jpg|thumb|Tile saw]]<br />
<br />
* an abrasive saw for all tile types<br />
* The abrasive rod cuts in any direction<br />
* good for small curved cuts<br />
* the one shown has a drill bit built into one end<br />
<br />
===Pruning saw===<br />
* For cutting small trees and limbs<br />
* Frameless<br />
* Gives better access than a bowsaw<br />
<br />
===Long reach pruning saw===<br />
* Pruning saw blade on a pole<br />
* Handle often telescopic for easy storage<br />
<br />
===Homemade pruning saw===<br />
* Can be made with a blade from any coarse toothed construction site type saw and some 1 x 3/4<br />
* Longer handles if desired<br />
* Less effort to use due to narrower kerf & longer blade<br />
* Larger blade less able to get into tight spaces<br />
* Lower cost<br />
* Quick to make<br />
<br />
<br />
==Power Saws==<br />
<br />
[http://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/blog/the-ultimate-guide-to-power-saws/ There are a number of different types of power saws available], each suitable for different types of job;<br />
<br />
===Jigsaw===<br />
[[image:Decoupeerzaag2.jpg|thumb|jigsaw]]<br />
<br />
* Low cutting speed<br />
* Can cut curves<br />
* Steer by rotating the saw, never push sideways<br />
* Quality varies greatly<br />
* Cheap & midrange jigsaws:<br />
** Performance generally anything from patchy to dire<br />
** Blades wander & bend badly<br />
** Cost of ruined wood over the lifetime of a cheap or midrange jigsaw soon exceeds the cost of a better saw<br />
** Not possible to cut a straight line using a guide fence, as they need regular direction correction<br />
* Good jigsaws:<br />
** The blade is constrained with rollers<br />
** Can cut straight lines<br />
** Much less prone to blade bending, but not immune<br />
* [[Jigsaw review]]<br />
<br />
====Jigsaw blades====<br />
* Many types of blade available:<br />
** Coarse, medium, fine<br />
** Blades for wood, metal, plastic, leather, paper products<br />
** Flush cutting offset blade<br />
** Knife<br />
** Grit<br />
** Varying teeth pitch<br />
<br />
Blade quality also varies greatly. Cheapo blades can wander and bend badly, when a decent brand of blade in the same machine cuts fine. Coarse TPI blades are less prone to wander.<br />
<br />
===Circular saw===<br />
[[image:800px-Cirkelzaag_(Circular_saw).jpg|thumb|Circular saw]]<br />
<br />
* Main article [[Circular saw]]<br />
* Fast cutting<br />
* Cuts straight lines only<br />
* Good general purpose [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] saw<br />
* Riving [[knives|knife]] reduces risk of kickback - some saws lack one<br />
* Blades with high number of teeth can produce very smooth cuts<br />
* Normally supplied with a guide fence<br />
* Depth of cut and angle can be preset<br />
* Max possible cutting depth is less with angled cuts<br />
* Not safe to use for felling trees. As wind rocks tree, it clamps up on the sawblade, throwing the saw back at the user<br />
* Hand held, bench type and cordless circular saws are all used for DIY<br />
<br />
====Cordless circular saw====<br />
The lower power of these often makes it possible to hold these saws safely against kickback. When this is so, they can also be used for plunge cuts and tree cuts.<br />
<br />
===Mitre Saw===<br />
[[image:600px-Mitre_saw_white.jpg|thumb|Compound Mitre Saw]]<br />
<br />
* Compound mitre saws' blades can swivel in 2 axes for compound angle cuts.<br />
* Fast cutting<br />
* Fairly small max cut width<br />
* Hence mostly used for cross cutting<br />
* Circular saw blade<br />
* Cutting head swivels to cut at various angles<br />
* Cutting head tilts to give cuts angled in 2 axes<br />
* The quality of these machines varies widely<br />
* Plastic bases found on budget machines bend slightly under force, misaligning cuts.<br />
* On poor quality machines the saw head may be subject to some unwanted movement<br />
* Cut width can be roughly doubled if the workpiece is turned over to complete the cut from the other side. The result is pretty good if care is taken to get good alignment for the second half of the cut, but not perfect.<br />
* Built in laser makes aligment of timber much quicker than running an eye across the blade. Some lasers are mains powered, some require batteries. The beam position does need correct adjustment<br />
* See [[Mitre saw review]]<br />
<br />
===Sliding Mitre saw===<br />
* Mitre saw with cutting head that slides to cut wider timber<br />
* Enables longer cuts to be made in larger timber<br />
* Sliders are more prone to inaccuracy and free play, so a more expensive machine is required for any given level of accuracy<br />
<br />
===Flipsaw===<br />
* Mitre saw with a sawhead that flips over to give either a mitre saw or benchsaw<br />
<br />
===Cutoff Saw===<br />
* Look somewhat like mitre saws, but with no angle adjustments<br />
* Cuts at precisely 90 degrees<br />
* Workpiece [[clamp]] included<br />
* Abrasive grit blade usually used<br />
* Primarily used on metalwork<br />
<br />
===Scroll Saw===<br />
[[image:800px-Scroll_saw_-_Dremel.jpg|thumb|Scroll saw]]<br />
<br />
* Very thin blade can be easily fed through a hole for islanded cuts<br />
* Vibrating blade only moves a very small amount, and can be touched without injury<br />
* The only type of power saw safe for young kids<br />
* Effectively a modern version of the fretsaw<br />
* Make a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk-k27LxQP0&feature=related Heart box]<br />
<br />
===Spiral saw===<br />
[[image:Spiral_saw_0441-5.jpg|thumb|Spiral saw]]<br />
* eg Rotozip<br />
* Can plunge into solid materials then [[drill]] in any direction<br />
* Can't withstand much sideways force<br />
* Limited uses due to poor performance with a lot of uses<br />
* OK for very soft materials<br />
* [[Die Grinder]]s can use the 1/8" spiral saw blades, but such thin blades are very weak<br />
* Spiral saws taking 1/8" blades also take die grinder accessories - check speed ratings though<br />
<br />
===Table saw===<br />
* Circular blade<br />
* Fast feed rate<br />
* Plastic or wood pushers are used to keep hands away from blade<br />
* Old table saws lack guarding<br />
<br />
====Sawstop table saws====<br />
* A safety system that detects touching of the blade, and destructively stops the blade to minimise injury<br />
* Not cheap<br />
* Safety system must be turned off on green wood, in the rain etc to prevent it activating<br />
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SawStop<br />
<br />
===Bandsaw===<br />
[[image:Bandsaw blade 10tpi 5619-4.jpg|right|35px]]<br />
<br />
* Main article: [[Bandsaw]]<br />
* Uses a blade consisting of a continuous loop of spring steel, with cutting teeth on one edge. This rotates around two aligned wheels (one of them driven), and passes vertically through a cutting table.<br />
* Coarse, fine and omnidirectional blades available<br />
* A typical DIY bandsaw blade of 12mm width allows straight and curved cuts down to about 150mm radius to be comfortably made. Narrower blades allow much tighter curves to be cut<br />
* A few [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwu7GvJ76qU&feature=related settings need to be correct] to achieve a good clean straight cut<br />
* Bandsaws also exist in metal cutting and food cutting versions.<br />
<br />
===Tile saw===<br />
* Small table saw with diamond grit circular [[tile]] blade<br />
* Water cooled blade<br />
* Makes very clean cuts in tiles, concrete etc<br />
* Can cut small strips of tile neatly too<br />
* Replacing the blade with a wood cutting one enables use as a tablesaw, but blade height above the bench is low. Some saws have enough room for a slightly bigger timber blade<br />
* Main article: [[Tile cutter]]<br />
<br />
===Reciprocating saw===<br />
* Powered version of jack saw or hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Chainsaw===<br />
[[image:Chainsaw_ms280c_1.jpg|thumb|Chainsaw with chain covered]]<br />
<br />
* Very fast rough cutting<br />
* Good for felling trees, cutting up trunks etc<br />
* Used for chainsaw art too, quick carving of tree stumps etc into fancy shapes<br />
* Relatively high risk saw<br />
* Protective clothing is wise<br />
* Basic training is wise<br />
* Correct type of [[oil]] important<br />
* Blade should not contact soil<br />
* Tip must not touch workpiece, or the tool throws at the user<br />
<br />
===Radial arm saw===<br />
[[image:Radial_arm_saw_osha.jpg|thumb|Radial arm saw]]<br />
<br />
Another type of sliding circular saw<br />
<br />
===Holesaw===<br />
[[image:Holesaw 0455-6.jpg|thumb|Hole saw]]<br />
[[image:800px-Adjustable_hole_saw.JPG|thumb|Adjustable holesaw]]<br />
<br />
* Coarse tooth holesaws cut wood & plastic, and some cut metals<br />
* Abrasive core drills are used on masonry<br />
* One piece cup shaped blade holesaws are durable<br />
* Bit of flexible sawblade clips into metal base type holesaws are very weak and must be used with care<br />
* See main article [[Holesaw]]<br />
<br />
===Dado saw set===<br />
* Dado saw heads are assemblies that cut slots using a table saw<br />
* The simpler type is a pair of wobble washers that result in the blade being mounted slightly on the wonk<br />
* The other type uses 2 circular blades with a chip remover between them<br />
* The latter increase blade inertia and spin down times beyond permitted limits, and are thus illegal in the UK. They're widely used in the US.<br />
<br />
==Concepts==<br />
; TPI<br />
: number of teeth per inch. For a bandsaw and handsaws, 6tpi is for fast rough cutting, 14tpi gives a fine finish in wood, 24tpi cuts plastics & most metals<br />
<br />
;Number of teeth<br />
: For circular saws, 10 teeth give a rough cut, 24 a fine cut, 40 a superfine cut eg for cabinet work<br />
<br />
; Kerf<br />
: The width of the sawn slot<br />
<br />
; Tooth breakage<br />
: Once one tooth breaks, more soon follow. The main way to avoid it is to ensure the ratio of tooth spacing to workpiece is such that there are always at least 2 teeth in contact with workpiece.<br />
<br />
==Tooth Materials==<br />
;Hardpoint<br />
: Hardened steel teeth. Low cost sawblade type. The teeth wear, requiring regular blade relacement. Teeth can occasionally break off too.<br />
<br />
;TCT<br />
: Tungsten Carbide Tipped. Highly durable TC tips are brazed to the blade. The result is a blade that cuts much faster, and cuts harder materials with ease. Blades last a long time before dulling.<br />
<br />
Early TC saws in the 1940s suffered from the tips shattering easily in use. Todays TC saws avoid this by using tips made from a matrix of TC grit set in a relatively soft metal. This gives the toughness of TC without the tendency to shatter.<br />
<br />
====Swapping tooth types====<br />
Don't fit a non-TC blade into a power saw designed for TCT blades. The steel teeth will not be able to cope with the workload, and accidents can result. TCT blades can be used in old saws designed for steel teeth, and stay sharp much longer.<br />
<br />
==Materials==<br />
===Wood===<br />
Coarse blades give fast cutting but a rough result. Finer toothed blades give a cleaner result but slower progress. The subject of wood saw tooth geometry is a good deal more complex than just this, and covers questions of tooth spacing, tooth cutting material, tooth geometry and other matters.<br />
<br />
===Laminates===<br />
Laminates and melamine in particular tends to break along the sawn line, giving a very poor edge. Methods used to combat this:<br />
* Place scrap sheet material on top of the workpiece, with the valued laminate face layer uppermost<br />
* Place the workpiece face down, sat on scrap material<br />
* Cut it 1/4" oversize and plane down, holding the plane at an angle to prevent any lifting of the melamine<br />
* Some saws cut cleanly enough to simply place the laminate layer so the sawblade goes into that side of the material. But a lot of saws don't give a clean cut this way. Maximise the odds by taking the cut very gently.<br />
<br />
Less than perfect methods include:<br />
* Score with a [[Knives|stanley knife]] before cutting<br />
* Some people stick [[tape]] on the workpiece before cutting, I've never had a good result that way though<br />
* Saw very shallow through only the top laminate layer, then saw the board again full depth<br />
<br />
===Steel===<br />
Steel can be cut by a fine toothed saw, or other methods such as nibbler or [[Angle grinder|grinder]]. It can also be melted by a welder or cutting torch.<br />
<br />
Hardpoint saws wear quite rapidly when cutting steel.<br />
<br />
===Non-ferrous metals===<br />
These can be cut by a fine toothed hand saw or a fine tooth power saw. Mitre saws can use coarse teeth, but go easy with the pressure.<br />
<br />
===Plastics===<br />
For hand cutting a fine toothed blade is needed. Power saws may also use a coarse blade if the pressure on the workpiece is kept gentle, and the plastic is strong enough to not bend much during cutting. <br />
<br />
Thin unsupported plastics tend to bend into a coarse blade and get broken. Options are to use a fine tooth blade, or to turn a coarse TCT blade round so it runs backwards.<br />
<br />
Power sawing plastic can result in the blade heating up and this affecting the cut, but this isn't likely to happen with just sawing one small item. Some power saws have a lower speed setting to reduce this issue.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Tree Felling==<br />
Power saws:<br />
* The chainsaw is the undisputed king of tree felling, but there are other options too<br />
* Reciprocating saws do the job, but are slower<br />
* Circular saws are '''not''' safe for general tree felling. There are specific circumstances in which its possible to make their use safe, but using them regardless is a recipe for an accident<br />
<br />
Hand:<br />
* A bowsaw is best for garden trees that aren't too big for it. The tooth geometry cuts fast<br />
* 2 man saw is the only handsaw option for large trees<br />
* Pruning saws can do small limbs, but making your own with a bigger blade gives a quicker result. The 8' or so handle can be handy<br />
* Smaller non-felling saws such as basic construction site handsaws (jacksaws) also work upto their size limits, but are quite a bit slower cutting due to different tooth geometry<br />
* Axe<br />
<br />
==Sawmill==<br />
[[image:Alaskan chainsaw mill.jpg|thumb|Alaskan mill]]<br />
<br />
Portable sawmills can be bought, hired or home made for processing trees.<br />
<br />
Bandsaws have all the advantages. They're cheaper to make than other types, and upping the size doesn't add costs as much as other types, thus the end product generally has a larger cut depth. Bandsaws have the narrowest kerf, wasting less timber. The blades can be changed to vary the tradeoff of cut speed versus cut quality.<br />
<br />
Circular saw based mills were once more popular. Large discs are expensive to replace if TCT, and require more sharpening if steel point. They have limited depth of cut and wider kerf.<br />
<br />
Chainsaw based mills are seldom seen. They're much faster than the other types, but have very wide kerf and limited cut depth. The wide kerf makes produding thin timber pieces very wasteful. They're much safer than hand held chainsaws. <br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chainsaw_mill Alaskan mills] are an especially simple type of mill, usually made with a chainsaw.<br />
<br />
Instructions for making all types can be found on [http://youtube.com/ youtube].<br />
<br />
==Reviews==<br />
[http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/8b05b60db8ac43d6/63e811bba3a3eefa#63e811bba3a3eefa Mitre saws]<br />
<br />
==To Do==<br />
Plywood saw <br />
Rip saw <br />
Saw set <br />
Pics<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Sawboard]]<br />
* [[Clamps]]<br />
* [[Knife sharpening]]<br />
* [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]<br />
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>Gpesketthttps://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Circular_saw&diff=20072Circular saw2017-01-30T16:50:41Z<p>Gpeskett: Correcting spelling mistake and adding a link to where TCT blades can be bought</p>
<hr />
<div>== What is it? ==<br />
<br />
The circular saw probably needs little introduction. It is a saw designed for rapid and accurate cutting of sheet materials and timber with a flat surface. It uses a spinning disc shaped blade to do the actual cutting, and features a number of design elements to keep the operator safe and to make the tool easy to handle and use.<br />
<br />
== Types? ==<br />
<br />
Circular saws are almost always dedicated machines these days. There was a time that a small saw attachment was a available for some brands of drill, but these have all but disappeared from the market due to their many limitations.<br />
<br />
This FAQ is about hand held saws. Note however that the circular saw also has a number of other common forms such as the chop saw or mitre saw, radial arm saw, and table saw etc.<br />
<br />
The main thing that differentiates the tools, is size and build quality.<br />
<br />
== Saw Size Guide ==<br />
<br />
{| width="100%" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="5"<br />
| width="12%" valign="top" | '''Size'''<br />
| width="14%" valign="top" | '''Max Cut '''<br />
| width="33%" valign="top" | '''Limitations'''<br />
| width="41%" valign="top" |<br />
'''Comments'''<br />
|-<br />
| valign="top" | Under 6"<br />
| valign="top" | 35mm to 45mm<br />
| valign="top" | Limited depth of cut and a small motor limits these saws to sheet materials that are not too thick. Cut speed is also less than larger saws.<br />
| valign="top" | This class of tool is now less commonly found as a mains powered tool, although is quite common as a cordless tool. The range and choice of blades available for it are not as good as other sizes. The main advantage is light weight and smaller physical size which may be useful in some circumstances.<br />
|-<br />
| valign="top" | 6 - 7.5"<br />
| valign="top" | 65mm<br />
| valign="top" | Good for most sheet materials, but usually unable to cut 3" thick timber in a single action.<br />
| valign="top" | 7 1/2" saws are probably the most common size and will tackle most jobs with ease. There is a very good range of blades available in this size.<br />
|-<br />
| valign="top" | 8" and above<br />
| valign="top" | 85mm<br />
| valign="top" | Big and heavy, may be overkill for most of the jobs you will need it for<br />
| valign="top" | the 8 and 9" saws are typically the largest hand held saws that you will find. These will do all the jobs expected of the smaller models, but also have the advantage of significant cut depth of over 3" typically. Blade range is also very good.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
<br />
Circular saw blades are sharp, big, and spin fast. If you come into contact with one you can be assured of very easily ending up in a big mess. A circular saw should hence always be treated with respect. Care should be exercised even when picking one up since some models are very easy to pick up and switch on accidentally in the same action (the on button is positioned right where you naturally want to grab it!). Even after turning the saw off, the blade can continue to rotate for several seconds.<br />
<br />
You should ensure that your work area is well laid out with space to move round the work piece, and the work is well supported and will not move or parts of it drop off onto you while you are cutting. You want both hands on the saw as much of the time as possible, and not trying to balance or catch falling sawn material.<br />
<br />
Many of the better saws are good at directing dust into an organised stream of material that can be collected with a vacuum extractor. The dust is relatively coarse and hence does not usually pose a serious inhalation hazard apart from when cutting materials prone to fine dust generation like MDF.<br />
<br />
Ear defenders should be warn at all times, since even the smallest saws are loud with much of the sound energy concentrated into a narrow frequency band. This will dull your hearing very quickly, and prolonged exposure will result in permanent hearing loss.<br />
<br />
Gloves and eye protection are a good idea to protect you from flying wood chips and splinters.<br />
<br />
Never use a saw that has a defective guard, and never attempt to disable or remove the guard. The guard should move out of the way easily as you start a cut, and should spring back the moment you finish a cut (or drop the saw!). If you need to move the guard away from the blade manually (for example when making a very fine cut close to the edge of a work piece, always use on the knob on the top side of the saw rather than reaching under the saw close to the blade edge to do this.<br />
<br />
It is wise to use a saw from a supply protected by an RCD, since cable cutting incidents are not uncommon.<br />
<br />
== Supporting the work ==<br />
<br />
In order to work safely and effectively it is important to make sure that what you are cutting is well supported, and not likely to slip or fall as you cut. Not only will this improve safety but it will also give better quality results. The most difficult material you will normally need to handle are the large 8x4' sheets. One workmate is never going to be enough to hold this safely while you cut it up.<br />
<br />
Additional supports like lightweight trestles, or fold away roller stands are invaluable for keeping things well supported.<br />
<br />
A quick and cheap solution is to simply lay the board across a few spare battens. If you set the depth of cut to just a little more than the board thickness then you can safely saw right over the battens without fear of cutting right through them (although you will take a small cut out of them each time).<br />
<br />
== Quality==<br />
The single most noticeable difference between the budget and high end tools is the rigidity of the tool. For the best quality of cut and smoothness of operation the saw sole plate and other bracing mechanisms needs to be a solid as possible. Low end saws will typically have a pressed steel sole plate, and better tools will have cast steel or aluminium sole plates. Blade tilt locks want to be rigid and resist bending to one side or the other, because any flex here will be reflected in the squareness of the cut. It helps if they are marked with an accurate angle scale.<br />
<br />
Blade depth locks also allow the saw to be set for a shallower cut than its maximum. Again better ones are more rigid, and better marked with an accurate depth scale.<br />
<br />
Vibration from the saw should also be very low, this not only reduces operator fatigue, but enhances cut quality as well.<br />
<br />
Less visible differences will be in the quality of the bearings and their resistance to dust ingress. Also higher end tools will be rated for continuous operation, whereas the lower end ones will need to be rested periodically to prevent overheating.<br />
<br />
Blade quality varies greatly. As its hard to judge them by appearance, look at brand and number of teeth. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Included Accessories ===<br />
As a minimum most saws will come with a rip fence and a spanner for blade changing. The rip fence allows the saw to be guided along the edge of the work piece for when accurate cuts are required. Note however than fences are limited in length, and hence typically restrict guided cuts to within 12" of the edge of a board. Note also some rip fence designs are better than others in terms of rigidity and dealing with small cuts. Most saws should have a dust port ready to accept a suitable vacuum nozzle. Some better saws may include a sole plate cover to prevent marking the surface of fine wood finishes.<br />
<br />
=== Features ===<br />
<br />
Some saws will have soft start to reduce the kick at switch on. This is more desirable the bigger the saw gets. A saw should have plenty of easy to grip handles and knobs that the operator can use to guide the saw. A good guide on the sole plate makes for easy alignment of the blade with the actual cut line. Don't be too swayed by gimmicks like laser line generators since these are rarely accurate enough. A blade brake is well worth having since it will arrest the rotation of the blade quickly and hence reduce the risk of an accident.<br />
<br />
== Cordless saws ==<br />
<br />
For general use a mains powered saw is a much better bet, however, cordless saws are now available. These are usually restricted to the smaller sizes. Note also that run time will be very restricted unless you buy a high end model with high capacity batteries. Capacity = Voltage x Ah.<br />
<br />
Care also needs to be taken to ensure that the freedom from a mains flex does not lead to you attempting to work in an unsuitable location! Even cordless tools will take fingers off and slice through major arteries and tendons in no time!<br />
<br />
== Types of cut ==<br />
<br />
Many sawing tasks will involve cutting sheet materials like ply, MDF, or chipboard. These generally require a general purpose blade and no particular special precautions (over and above the general safety measures detailed above).<br />
<br />
=== Cross Cut ===<br />
<br />
Sometimes however you will want to cut real timber. A "Cross cut" is one made across the grain of the timber. This is the easiest type of cut to make in real timber. For these cuts it is often better to substitute a blade designed for this type of cut. It will have finer teeth and cause less tear out from the top surface of the cut.<br />
<br />
=== Rip Cut ===<br />
<br />
A "rip cut" is one made along the grain. This requires a blade with larger and more aggressive teeth, and will use more power to make the cut. When rip cutting it is important that your saw is fitted with a correctly adjusted riving knife. This is a metal tab that should follow closely behind the blade in the cut. Its purpose is to ensure that should the cut close up for any reason, the material can not pinch the back of the saw blade. Pinching the front of the blade tends to pull the saw harder into the work piece and possibly stall the motor. Pinching the back tends to throw the saw away from the work (and toward you!)<br />
<br />
=== Non through cut ===<br />
<br />
A non through cut is one that does not cut right through the material. This may be because the saw does not have enough depth of cut for the task (see "Cutting thicker materials" below), or you are using the saw to cut a rebate or grove in the work (possibly using several passes)<br />
<br />
=== A bevel cut ===<br />
<br />
Most saws allow the angle of the blade with respect to the sole plate to be altered. This allows non square cuts to be made that will put a bevelled edge onto the cut material. Note that the maximum depth of cut is reduced when bevel cutting.<br />
<br />
=== Plunge cut ===<br />
<br />
Not to be attempted by the feint hearted! This is where a cut needs to be made starting in the middle of a board and not at an edge. A typical example may be when removing a section of sheet material flooring in a room. The saw will need to have the riving knife removed, the blade guard fully retracted, and the saw either balanced on its leading edge ready to start the cut or be placed flat on its sole plate with the blade retracted to its highest setting. The saw is then started and the blade slowly plunged into the board to the required depth.<br />
<br />
The "tilted forward" method allows for the blade depth setting to be preset (handy when you want an exact depth of cut (e.g. floorboard depth)), but presents more risk to the operator since the sharp edge is exposed.<br />
<br />
Its easy for the saw to end up being thrown, and flying spinning circular saw blades aren't a good thing. Grip the saw very firmly, and only apply light force to the workpiece. Low power cordless saws have a real advantage for plunge cutting, they tend to stall rather than throw.<br />
<br />
== Cutting thicker materials ==<br />
<br />
It is possible to cut material that is thicker than the maximum cut depth of the saw by the simple expedient of cutting twice - once from each side. While not ideal it does extend the versatility of even the smallest saws.<br />
<br />
== Types of blade ==<br />
<br />
Most saws will be supplied with a general purpose blade. These are as their name suggests suitable for most tasks including cross and rip cutting in timber as well as cuts in many composite or man made boards. However they are a bit of a compromise, and frequently you can obtain dramatically better results from even cheap saws by the expedient of changing the supplied blade for a better one. If you find yourself needing to do many cuts of one particular type (i.e. cross or rip) it may be worth buying a blade designed for the task.<br />
<br />
Most blades these days are [http://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/index.php/tct-circular-saw-blades-c-59 Tungsten Carbide Tipped (TCT)], these give the most wear resistance and will stay sharp longer. They can be sharpened, but this is often not a DIY task and a specialist sharpening service may need to be sought. The TCT tips are also easily damaged by hitting embedded nails other hard objects in the wood. Having a spare "old" blade for situations where you can't be sure the wood is free of nails can be handy.<br />
<br />
High Speed Steel (HSS) blades aren't common now. They have much lower maximum cut speed, and blunt relatively quickly. They need repeated sharpening during their life, and occasionally setting. Don't put an HSS blade in a saw designed for TCT, its speed capabilities will be well & truly exceeded.<br />
<br />
There are also specialist blades available for occasional cutting of plastics, aluminium and other soft metals. Some are even designed for cutting timber with nails in.<br />
<br />
Rebating blade sets (or dado sets) as they are sometimes known are not suitable for use with a hand held saw.<br />
<br />
== '''Jigs and Guides ''' ==<br />
<br />
There are a number of after market jigs and guides that can be bought for use with a circular saw. Many are designed to help guide the saw, and to speed up the process of making accurate straight cuts. You can also get mitre guides designed to help accurate manufacture of matching 45 degree mitres.<br />
<br />
One of the most useful accessories is the home made saw guide or saw board. These are quick and simple to make, but greatly ease the process of marking out and cutting sheet materials. They also have the added bonus of reducing tear-out at the top surface of the cut, and protecting the top surface of the material from scratches caused by the saws sole plate. Details for making one can be found [[Sawboard|here]].<br />
<br />
== Second Hand Tools ==<br />
<br />
Not much to watch for, other than making sure all the safety features work and are in place. Work on the assumption that the first thing you will need to do is to buy it a nice new blade and you should not be too disappointed! One thing to check is the standard angle of cut really is 90 degrees (use a small set square) - this should eliminate both saws made to poor tolerances, and those that have been mistreated.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>Gpesketthttps://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Reciprocating_saw&diff=20071Reciprocating saw2017-01-30T16:45:30Z<p>Gpeskett: Adding link to where you can buy recip blades from</p>
<hr />
<div> <h2>What is it?</h2><br />
<p>A reciprocating saw is perhaps best described as a mechanised version of a hand saw. A blade is clamped into the end of the saw, and a motor drives the blade backward and forward. Typically, reciprocating saws do not have a great amount of finesse, but they are well suited to fast and crude cutting (think in terms of a somewhat safer alternative to a chainsaw rather than an electric version of a<br />
tennon saw!). As a result and they are more likely to find applications in demolition work than they are in fine cabinet making!<br />
</p><br />
<h2>Example Uses</h2><br />
<p>The following jobs recounted by users of reciprocating saws, give a good idea as to the flexibility of the tools: Cutting through tree roots below ground level. Freeing a door frame upright from the floor that it was<br />
skew-nailed to, when the nails were fully home and the frame was held firm above. Using the flexibility of a 9&quot; blade to enable a cut to be made flush with the floor, under the jamb. Accurately cutting off a horizontal soil-pipe which was flush with the ground 500mm under the suspended floor immediately before it passed through the footings, while reaching through a 12&quot; wide gap in floorboards. Cutting a 2m length of 50mm aris off the underside of a floor joist to make a &quot;squint&quot; in the ceiling above a staircase. Taking out old window frames. </p><br />
<h2>Types</h2><br />
<p>There are several types of reciprocating saw. Proprietary designs like the Black and Decker Scorpion saw (not really comparable to most reciprocating saws, and more like a jigsaw on steroids), and the DeWalt Alligator Saw (a double action saw with twin counter acting blades). Most however are what one might call &ldquo;standard&rdquo; designs. The standard designs benefit from being able to share a large range of different blade types, and this tends to greatly add to the versatility of the tools.</p><br />
<h2>Safety</h2><br />
<p> Reciprocating saws are among the more benign power tools, however they are certainly not risk free! The standard design encourages the operator to keep both hands on the tool at all times. This has the added advantage of keeping him away from the sharp end! As a result of this design, most risks are of the environmental nature (i.e. you cut through something and it falls on you!) rather than from the tool itself. Like with most power tools, the use of an RCD protected power supply is recommended.</p><br />
<p>When cutting most materials, the relatively coarse sawdust produced does not represent too much of a health risk. For some cutting applications ear defenders may be required. Gloves are always recommended, as is eye protection. </p><br />
<p>One should take special care when removing the saw from the work that the blade has stopped moving completely. Otherwise, it is easy for the blade end to hit the work and cause the saw to kick back. At best, this can give the operator a bit of a jolt, and the worst could cause the blade to bend.</p><br />
<p>With prolonged use, vibration may become an issue. Note that pushing the blade stop at the nose of the saw against the material you are cutting can help reduce the vibration.</p><br />
<h2>Blades</h2><br />
<p> It is the [http://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/index.php/reciprocating-saw-blades-c-31 wide range of available blades] which give the reciprocating saw its great versatility. Metal and timber cutting blades are readily available, as are demolition blades which cut both! In addition there are special blades for cutting green wood. You can also get grit edged blades for cutting very hard materials and such as ceramics or cast iron. Blades typically range in length from 3 to 8 inches.</p><br />
<p>Since the blade is of a simple design, and there is no complex mechanism involved (unlike for example a chainsaw) so reciprocating saws can be used in quite &quot;blade hostile&quot; conditions like when cutting through tree roots partially covered in soil. The blade design is also very tough, and hence they can be used for cutting flush with other surfaces or even cutting slightly &ldquo;round corners&rdquo; rather like a pad saw.</p><br />
<h2>In Use</h2><br />
<p> Some people find reciprocating saws tricky to use at a first, as some practice is required to work out how to keep the blade moving and the saw steady. Using the nose of the tool to help hold it in position against the work helps greatly (much as the sole plate of a jigsaw keeps the body of the tool steady), although this is not always possible, or desirable (one of the great attractions of the reciprocating saw, being its &ldquo;reach&rdquo; that gives it the ability to cut in places that would be inaccessible to other power tools). </p><br />
<p>Get the blade stuck in the work, and you can end up with a stationary blade, while you try to hang on to a reciprocating saw &ndash; literally! Think through your cutting activities in advance, and arrange each cut such that the material does not &ldquo;close up&rdquo; on the blade as the cut progresses, thereby trapping it. Lubricating blades by rubbing with a candle or giving them a spray of PTFE lubricant can also help to prevent binding. </p><br />
<h2>Quality indicators</h2><br />
<p> Better tools will exhibit better endurance and will be of a more rugged design. They will also have motors designed for continuous use. Vibration damping is also better on the higher end tools.</p><br />
<h2>Features</h2><br />
<p> Variable speed is well worth having, since this allows an appropriate cutting speed be selected for material in question. A &ldquo;tool free&rdquo; blade change mechanism is also highly desirable (budget saws tend to require an Allen key for blade changes). A few saws also include an orbital blade action. This can help improve the speed of cut.</p><br />
<h2>Cordless reciprocating saws</h2><br />
<p> The cordless versions of these tools are ideal for helping you get into places the other saws cannot reach, however expect to pay a price premium for the privilege. Note also that run time will be somewhat limited as effective cutting makes quite high power demands on the tool and hence its batteries.</p><br />
<h2>Second hand tools</h2><br />
<p> Nothing in particular to lookout for. Make sure that the blade clamping mechanism works correctly, check the power switch and speed controller are OK. Also check that the mains lead is undamaged.</p><br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>Gpesketthttps://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Knife&diff=20019Knife2016-12-14T14:39:59Z<p>Gpeskett: /* Blades */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Stanley Knife==<br />
[[image:Aaknife2.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
* Also known as a utility knife<br />
* Retractable and fixed blade versions<br />
* Stanley is a brand name often used for this type of knife, regardless of brand.<br />
* The toughest of the knives popular for DIY<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wallpaper knife==<br />
[[image:Plastic wallpaper knives 0130-5.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
* Lightweight disposable plastic knife with snap-off segmented blade<br />
* 9mm & 18m blades<br />
* Very cheap, many for £1<br />
* Widely used for tasks where high strength is not needed<br />
* Blades easy to replace<br />
* Durable metal bodied versions also exist.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Pocket Knife==<br />
[[image:800px-Small_lockback_damascus_antler.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
The forerunner of the above knife types, these are no longer popular for DIY use, but are still used by some.<br />
* Higher initial purchase price, zero ongoing costs<br />
* The non-replaceable blade(s) must be resharpened<br />
* Most types can snap shut on fingers in some situations, which is not really a Good Thing.<br />
* Heavier and bulkier than wallpaper knives<br />
* Some pocket knives include other small tools, which usually prove to be more useful for inflicting minor self injury than DIY.<br />
* Toolchest in a [http://www.wengerna.com/giant-knife-16999 pocket knife]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Craft knife, X-acto knife==<br />
[[image:Xacto_11horizontal.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
These are small knives sometimes used in DIY, but more popular for craft use. The handles are somewhat like a writing pen, and the blades used are scalpel blades and other blades of a similar size.<br />
* Many blade shapes are available.<br />
* X-Acto is another trade mark that has fallen into general usage<br />
<br />
<br />
==Scalpel==<br />
[[image:309px-Various_scalpels.jpg|right|185px]]<br />
<br />
More used for [[Bad Ideas Links|DIY surgery]] than house maintenance, the most popular pattern of these is a 1 piece metal handle with no moving parts, into which the scalpel blade snaps into place. Designed for sterilisability.<br />
* Disposable plastic handles scalpels are also common<br />
* Useful for removing splinters, and other very fine work<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==Carving Knife==<br />
Kitchen knives aren't much use for DIY, but mean looking serrated ones can be used as a chipboard saw if caught without the right tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Electrician's knife==<br />
* Insulated handle<br />
* Used to cut [[cable|wire]] insulation<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lead knife==<br />
* for lead roofing<br />
* Long hook-nosed blade<br />
<br />
<br />
==Carbide tipped knife==<br />
* Tough long lasting carbide tip<br />
* Massively outlasts steel blades<br />
* Good for use on tough workpieces, such as tile backing board<br />
* [http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/product/218/hardibacker-carbide-tipped-scoring-knife Hardibacker carbide tipped knife]<br />
<br />
==Hacking knife==<br />
[[image:IMAG4151-2 hacking knife.jpg|right|70px]]<br />
* Hammerable<br />
* Various jobs, eg removing putty<br />
<br />
==Blades==<br />
[[image:Knife blades 0132-4.jpg|thumb|2x wallpaper knife blades 9mm & 18mm. Stanley type]]<br />
[[image:Scalpel blades 0131-5.jpg|thumb|Popular scalpel blade shapes]]<br />
[[image:Blades bulk 2581-2.jpg|thumb|Blades in bulk]]<br />
<br />
According to the power tool blades retailer Saxton Blades, there are [http://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/blog/11-ultimate-tools-to-master-the-art-of-cutting/ 11 common types of knife blade].<br />
<br />
==Handles==<br />
Bone handles can be rewhitened with hydrogen peroxide.<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Special:Allpages|Index]]<br />
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]<br />
* [http://www.mutr.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=649 some scalpel blade types]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>Gpesketthttps://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Knife&diff=20018Knife2016-12-14T14:38:47Z<p>Gpeskett: /* Blades */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Stanley Knife==<br />
[[image:Aaknife2.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
* Also known as a utility knife<br />
* Retractable and fixed blade versions<br />
* Stanley is a brand name often used for this type of knife, regardless of brand.<br />
* The toughest of the knives popular for DIY<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wallpaper knife==<br />
[[image:Plastic wallpaper knives 0130-5.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
* Lightweight disposable plastic knife with snap-off segmented blade<br />
* 9mm & 18m blades<br />
* Very cheap, many for £1<br />
* Widely used for tasks where high strength is not needed<br />
* Blades easy to replace<br />
* Durable metal bodied versions also exist.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Pocket Knife==<br />
[[image:800px-Small_lockback_damascus_antler.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
The forerunner of the above knife types, these are no longer popular for DIY use, but are still used by some.<br />
* Higher initial purchase price, zero ongoing costs<br />
* The non-replaceable blade(s) must be resharpened<br />
* Most types can snap shut on fingers in some situations, which is not really a Good Thing.<br />
* Heavier and bulkier than wallpaper knives<br />
* Some pocket knives include other small tools, which usually prove to be more useful for inflicting minor self injury than DIY.<br />
* Toolchest in a [http://www.wengerna.com/giant-knife-16999 pocket knife]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Craft knife, X-acto knife==<br />
[[image:Xacto_11horizontal.jpg|right|250px]]<br />
<br />
These are small knives sometimes used in DIY, but more popular for craft use. The handles are somewhat like a writing pen, and the blades used are scalpel blades and other blades of a similar size.<br />
* Many blade shapes are available.<br />
* X-Acto is another trade mark that has fallen into general usage<br />
<br />
<br />
==Scalpel==<br />
[[image:309px-Various_scalpels.jpg|right|185px]]<br />
<br />
More used for [[Bad Ideas Links|DIY surgery]] than house maintenance, the most popular pattern of these is a 1 piece metal handle with no moving parts, into which the scalpel blade snaps into place. Designed for sterilisability.<br />
* Disposable plastic handles scalpels are also common<br />
* Useful for removing splinters, and other very fine work<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==Carving Knife==<br />
Kitchen knives aren't much use for DIY, but mean looking serrated ones can be used as a chipboard saw if caught without the right tools.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Electrician's knife==<br />
* Insulated handle<br />
* Used to cut [[cable|wire]] insulation<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lead knife==<br />
* for lead roofing<br />
* Long hook-nosed blade<br />
<br />
<br />
==Carbide tipped knife==<br />
* Tough long lasting carbide tip<br />
* Massively outlasts steel blades<br />
* Good for use on tough workpieces, such as tile backing board<br />
* [http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/product/218/hardibacker-carbide-tipped-scoring-knife Hardibacker carbide tipped knife]<br />
<br />
==Hacking knife==<br />
[[image:IMAG4151-2 hacking knife.jpg|right|70px]]<br />
* Hammerable<br />
* Various jobs, eg removing putty<br />
<br />
==Blades==<br />
[[image:Knife blades 0132-4.jpg|thumb|2x wallpaper knife blades 9mm & 18mm. Stanley type]]<br />
[[image:Scalpel blades 0131-5.jpg|thumb|Popular scalpel blade shapes]]<br />
[[image:Blades bulk 2581-2.jpg|thumb|Blades in bulk]]<br />
<br />
According to the power tool blades retailer Saxton Blades, there are 11 common types of knife blade.<br />
<br />
==Handles==<br />
Bone handles can be rewhitened with hydrogen peroxide.<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* [[Special:Allpages|Index]]<br />
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]<br />
* [http://www.mutr.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=649 some scalpel blade types]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]</div>Gpeskett