|
|
Line 1: |
Line 1: |
| ==Introduction== | | P0d9VT <a href="http://qantyzmpepsz.com/">qantyzmpepsz</a>, [url=http://nrlmjaaiefps.com/]nrlmjaaiefps[/url], [link=http://dwgimatejglc.com/]dwgimatejglc[/link], http://nwukhsimpvjj.com/ |
| | |
| This article is a straight cut and paste of a very useful description posted by Dave Baker on identifying threads - and in this particular case a 14mm thread. The original question:
| |
| | |
| <pre>
| |
| "Need to find out what this thread is - it's on an air temperature sensor for a car. Its dimensions (male) are:- | |
| | |
| Thread outside diameter Threads per thingie
| |
| metric 13.8mm 1.5
| |
| imperial 0.54in 16 tpi"
| |
| </pre> | |
| | |
| ==Procedure==
| |
| | |
| After 30 years of engineering and accumulating hundreds of tools, thread
| |
| gauges are something I've never felt a pressing need for. Provided you have
| |
| an accurate steel rule or preferably a digital vernier and know a few basic
| |
| facts it's pretty easy to identify most threads. Even if diameter and pitch
| |
| are similar you always have thread angle to help distinguish types. Occam's
| |
| Razor says that most threads you'll come across in anything modern are
| |
| metric so it's best to check for those first.
| |
| | |
| ==Metric Threads== | |
| | |
| O/d will always be a tad under nominal so the bolt doesn't bind in the nut
| |
| or female thread. For pitch I measure crest to crest over 10 threads and
| |
| divide by 10. Hopefully it'll be a nice round number of mm or at worst a
| |
| half mm. You can use a digital vernier by eye across thread crests to at
| |
| least 0.25mm (10 thou) or better so you can work to an accuracy of 1 thou
| |
| per thread which is ample. Easiest way is to preset the vernier to the
| |
| expected measurement i.e. 15mm if you think it's a 1.5mm pitch rather than
| |
| trying to adjust it manually to line up with the crests. It's actually even
| |
| quicker with a steel rule marked in 0.5mm increments. If that lines up cock
| |
| on over 10 pitches and the o/d is just under an integral number of mm then
| |
| usually you're done.
| |
| | |
| A very useful set of things to have handy is one each of nice new non-rusty
| |
| bolts in 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm sizes. The thread pitches on these will be
| |
| 1mm, 1.25mm, 1.5mm and 1.75mm respectively. That covers most of the normal
| |
| pitches you'll ever encounter in metric threads apart from the very small
| |
| sizes of 5mm and under and the big stuff. If you can mesh the appropriate
| |
| bolt with the teeth of the one you're trying to identify and you can't see
| |
| any gaps against a good light then job's a good un. The o/d of the bolt is
| |
| immaterial - for a given pitch the thread form will be exactly the same on
| |
| any bolt.
| |
| | |
| While I'm on the subject of metric thread pitches I guess I could cover how
| |
| these really work. The standard pitch for any size metric bolt is always a
| |
| coarse thread. In fact the coarse pitches were taken pretty much from
| |
| similar sized UNC bolts which were designed for threads in coarse grained
| |
| weak brittle materials like cast iron and cast aluminium. Finer pitches like
| |
| UNF are used in finer grained stronger, or more ductile, materials like
| |
| steel, forged aluminium, brass, bronze etc and there are metric fine pitches
| |
| for similar use. However you never see anything coarser than the standard
| |
| coarse metric pitch even though there may be many finer variants for each
| |
| size. You'd only need an even coarser pitch for even weaker materials like
| |
| wood and then either you'd actually use a wood screw or drill right through
| |
| and use a bolt and nut.
| |
| | |
| Finer pitches create a stronger bolt because the core diameter of the bolt
| |
| is larger i.e. the pitch depth of the thread is smaller in exact proportion
| |
| to its length. Bolts that take very high loads such as conrod big end bolts,
| |
| flywheel bolts etc will always be fine pitch with as big a core as possible.
| |
| Common sizes for these are 8mm, 9mm and 10mm all of which use a 1mm pitch.
| |
| | |
| The 60 degree tooth angle on metric (and also UNC and UNF) bolts was very
| |
| cunningly designed for easy use. The top and bottom of the threads are
| |
| rounded to avoid stress raisers and in such a way that if you deduct the
| |
| thread pitch from the nominal o/d you always get the tapping drill size
| |
| which therefore, near as dammit, will also be the core diameter of the bolt.
| |
| For example the tapping drill for an 8mm x 1.25mm standard coarse bolt is
| |
| 8-1.25 = 6.75mm so it's an easy calculation to do in your head and no need
| |
| to carry a Zeus book around in your pocket all the time. This applies
| |
| equally to UNC and UNF except that you have to do more calculations because
| |
| the pitch is shown in tpi not length.
| |
| | |
| For fine pitches there can be many variants but the smallest fine pitch
| |
| you're ever likely to see is 1mm. There are in fact fine pitch variants even
| |
| for bolts of 5mm and smaller but you'll never come across them except in
| |
| very specialised equipment.
| |
| | |
| Your 14mm bolt is quite a good example. The standard coarse pitch is 2mm but
| |
| by far the most common thread in that size is actually 1.25mm which is the
| |
| standard spark plug size fitted to nearly every petrol car engine ever made.
| |
| Only the 18mm x 1.5mm Ford Pinto engine plug and the more recent 12mm, 10mm
| |
| and even 8mm plugs fitted to motorbike engines and the like will be
| |
| different. There are also 1.5mm and to a lesser extent 1mm pitches in common
| |
| use on the 14mm diameter.
| |
| | |
| Now here's a thing and to be honest I've only just thought of it. I said
| |
| above that coarse pitches are best used in coarse grained and weak materials
| |
| but all spark plugs are fine pitch and yet they screw straight into the cast
| |
| iron or cast aluminium of the cylinder head. However when they seize they
| |
| strip the threads right out of the head which probably wouldn't happen if
| |
| they were standard coarse pitch better suited to the material they screw
| |
| into. Of course it's far too late to change that now because it's an
| |
| industry standard but probably not a very clever one. I digress.
| |
| | |
| ==Non metric threads== | |
| | |
| Once you've ruled out metric then the job gets easier. Imperial threads
| |
| don't generally have variants. UNC is the standard imperial coarse and UNF
| |
| the standard imperial fine. On old machinery you might come across Whitworth
| |
| which is an early coarse or its fine equivalent BSF. Both of these have 55
| |
| degree thread angles not 60 degree ones. BA can also be found on electrical
| |
| gear but it's easy to spot because of the very pointy 47.5 degree thread
| |
| angle. It won't come close to matching a 60 degree metric bolt even though
| |
| the diameter and pitch can be quite similar. You can actually screw many BA
| |
| bolts into metric female threads but not vice versa.
| |
| | |
| For hydraulic fittings it's usually NPT or BSP. These are quite distinctive
| |
| and often tapered.
| |
| | |
| ==Additional Comments==
| |
| | |
| Since Dave's original article above was published, some addition contributions have been added:
| |
| | |
| For more information on American thread forms see [http://www.sizes.com/tools/thread_american.htm here]
| |
| | |
| ==See Also==
| |
| * [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
| |
| * [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]
| |
| | |
| [[category:fixings]]
| |