Soldering Links: Difference between revisions
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Wildwiki22 (talk | contribs) Killed spirits |
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* For electrics, one can use thicker flux-cored solder, | * For electrics, one can use thicker flux-cored solder, | ||
* For mechanical, it depends on the material : for stainless steel or chrome plate, I would use a more aggressive flux, as in Arax, and wash the work well after. | * For mechanical, it depends on the material : for stainless steel or chrome plate, I would use a more aggressive flux, as in Arax, and wash the work well after. | ||
* 'Killed spirits' used to be a popular flux (not for PCBs). Easily made by putting zinc (eg from a battery) into HCl. As long as zinc remains in there the acid is reacted to zinc chloride. | |||
[[User:John Stockton|John Stockton]] ([[User talk:John Stockton|talk]]) 16:08, 19 October 2015 (BST) | [[User:John Stockton|John Stockton]] ([[User talk:John Stockton|talk]]) 16:08, 19 October 2015 (BST) | ||
Latest revision as of 02:54, 3 January 2025
Beginners Qs on electronic soldering
That reference is to a lengthy News thread.
Much depends on the type of work being done; I would add :-
- For electronics, use thin flux-cored solder,
- For electrics, one can use thicker flux-cored solder,
- For mechanical, it depends on the material : for stainless steel or chrome plate, I would use a more aggressive flux, as in Arax, and wash the work well after.
- 'Killed spirits' used to be a popular flux (not for PCBs). Easily made by putting zinc (eg from a battery) into HCl. As long as zinc remains in there the acid is reacted to zinc chloride.
John Stockton (talk) 16:08, 19 October 2015 (BST)