Making Concrete Blocks
Concrete Blocks intro
The standard mix for Concrete Blocks is 1:3:5, 1 part cement to 3 parts sand and 5 parts stone aggregate, by volume.
Note that the ratio is different by weight, since all ingredients do not have the same density.
Many other mixes are also possible, some of which incorporate other materials such as
- other pozzolans
- expanded polystyrene
- fibres for crack control
and so on.
Bulky additives such as brick, tile & glass should be broken down in a mixer first.
There are also non-concrete mix options, such as adobe, papercrete, and so on.
Concrete blocks can be basic and functional or pretty & very decorative. Its a matter of choice, imagination, and a little extra work. While concrete blocks are too often ugly, there is no need at all to make them so. The only reasons for ugliness are 'I cant be bothered to make them look decent' and 'I didnt know it could be done.'
Beautiful concrete block walls come from thses aspects:
- added decoration
- Overall design scheme
As well as decorative finishes, decorative block shapes can also be used to add character to a wall.
A special small mould can be made of decorative shapes, and cast with cement to produce a few pieces to add character to a wall. Items like gargoyles, roses and so on can be made this way. Even jelly moulds can be successfully used in some cases.
The apearance of small blocks can be achieved without the labour by moulding in grooves which are pointed as the wall is built. This can be done to for example make interlocking rectangular blocks look like square non-interlocking blocks.
Simple novel low garden walls can be made by casting blocks in short plastic pipe sections, and stacking them in overlapping layers with the flat ends up & down.
There really is no reason to make visible concrete walls ugly.
Block walls do not have to use all blocks of the same colour. A decorative line of a 2nd colour block, or better a line of extra-thin blocks (eg 1" or 2" high), can all help bring the wall's character alive.
A line of alternating colour blocks may be run around the perimeter of the wall.
These are common basic patternings, with imagination you can do something more.
Many materials can colour blocks:
- White cement - white
- Grey cement - grey
- Stone chips - many colours available
- Clinker - dark
- Glass - crushed glass available in many colours. Sparkling finish.
- Tiles - any colour you like
- Brick dust - red brick is high in iron oxide and pozzolanic
- Iron oxide - dull red, makes pink, red, & brown
- Cement dyes - prone to fade and streak over time, so better avoided
- Coal ash - makes black mortar. Some black mortar can fail prematurely, so use it sparingly.
- Clay & subsoil - brown
Where colourants cost more than bulk concrete, which is true in most cases, the coloured mix is laid in a thin layer in the mould then bulk concrete added to fill the mould.
Where it is required to concentrate solid colourants at the face of the block, the pieces are sprinkled or laid out in the mould and concrete poured on. Take some care with the pouring so it does not disturb the coloured pieces. This method is especially suited to tile pieces, which dont look so good if exposed the wrong way up. The concrete should then be tasmped or vibrated to eliminate air pockets.
If your imagination still hasn't fired up, try thinking about:
- a white cement finish with black stone chips
- black cement (ash & dye) with clear glass sparkling in it.
- white cement with purple sparkly glass pieces
- dull red cement (brick colour) 2" blocks with white cement pointing.
- brown cement with mixed colour tile mosaic pieces
- an almost all white wall with pieces of 1" high red block scatterd here and there
- white cement with marbled colour streaks in pale pink, pale grey etc
- white wall peppered with grey cement powder dots. Sprinkle it in the mould first.
Ugly blocks need rendering & painting just to make them look ok. Save yourself years of repainting and make them look good in the first place.
Wood finish - riven wood riven stone finish- riven slate
Planting holes may be made for small rock plants or trailing strawberries. Ensure a good freezeproof concrete mix is used for these blocks.
Moulds may be made from 2x4 and lined with polythene. Other wood sizes and mould release agents can also be used if preferred. Dividers between mould cavities may be made with 1" wood.
For a faster perfect finish, it is possible to use a sheet of glass resting on wood sheet as the base. The glass must be well supported. For cost reasons this is generally only practical if you already have a large sheet of glass to hand.
If you plan to run wiring in a 4" block wall, again you can save work by fitting 1"x1" strips of wood to some of the moulds so as to make ready cast wiring channels.
Several options exist for compacting the mix in the mould:
- do nothing
- tamp & level with a strip of wood - most common option
- vibrating poker - common on commercial sites
- low pressure press - may be done with weights
- high pressure press - probably not practical for diy use
High vs low strength blocks
Final block compressive strength is determined by
- the mixture (1:3:5 is strongest)
- the amount of water used in the mix (the less the stronger)
- how well the mortar is compacted in the mould (stiff mixes can be difficult to compact)
Solid vs hollow
For light duty use such as most internal dividing walls, hollow blocks will be strong enough, as well as being cheaper to make and lighter to carry. The central plug in the mould is usually slightly tapered to make withdrawal easy.
When a reinforced wall is wanted, hollow blocks may be used, reinforcing bar fitted, concrete poured into the wall, and the poured mix poker vibrated to release air pockets. Each pour should be limited to 1m depth, and fall of the concrete during pour must also be similarly limited to avoid separation of the components.
Foamed or aerated concrete is made by adding aluminium powder to the mix. There are probably few diyers who have experience of doing this.
Another way to make light blocks is to use LECA, perlite or expanded polystyrene as the aggregate or part of the aggregate.
Lightweight blocks have much lower weight, compressive strength and freeze cycle resistance, and better thermal insulation.
Blocks made without fine aggregate are slightly lighter and cheaper, weaker, and not freeze cycle tolerant.
Hollow blocks can be filled with a mix of non-expanding garbage and cement mortar, or solid blocks can have garbage dumped in the centre during pour. This gives a greater total load carrying ability than a hollow block while reducing cost.
This is an effective way to reduce cost by using unwanted hard materials such as broken concrete, brick, removed plaster and so on.
Where a high strength block is needed, it may be necessary to make some test blocks ahead of time and test their strength.
To determine the strength of your test block, let it cure fully first (which can take a month). Then pile up the following in this order on a strong flat level surface:
- sheet wood
- your test block
- sheet wood
The sheets of wood are to even the load over the whole surface of the block.
Just keep adding more weight onto the block until it crumbles. (Don't stand close enough for toe injury.) Knowing the weight you added and the top surface area of the block, you can calculate the pressure at which it failed.
In real life applications you must keep loading far below this figure. A substantial loading margin is needed as this failure load figure must never be reached even in the worst of conditions, eg a fully loaded structure in a hurricane.
- Optimum 1:3:5 mix
- low water content, a semi-dry mix
- good compression of mix in mould
- fibres to reduce cracking
Alternatives to Concrete Blocks
- Poured concrete
- various non-block construction methods.