Difference between revisions of "Replace a lock cylinder"
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| + | Replace cylinder lock barrel | ||
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Its a mostly simple job to fit a new lock barrel. The lock itself is not replaced, just the barrel, which is bought separately. | Its a mostly simple job to fit a new lock barrel. The lock itself is not replaced, just the barrel, which is bought separately. | ||
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| − | ==Gain access== | + | ==How to replace== |
| + | ===Gain access=== | ||
If you're locked out and can't get in any other way, drilling out the lock barrel is usually the easiest way to gain entry. Expect to ruin a few [[drill bit]]s in the process. 4mm twist drills are good for the job, though if not careful more drill bits will be needed. | If you're locked out and can't get in any other way, drilling out the lock barrel is usually the easiest way to gain entry. Expect to ruin a few [[drill bit]]s in the process. 4mm twist drills are good for the job, though if not careful more drill bits will be needed. | ||
| − | + | ===Remove lock=== | |
| − | ==Remove lock== | ||
There are 2 ways cylinder locks are commonly fixed to doors. Remove the visible screwheads, and either the whole lock will come off in one piece, or most of it will come off, leaving a backplate behind that needs to be unscrewed to remove it. | There are 2 ways cylinder locks are commonly fixed to doors. Remove the visible screwheads, and either the whole lock will come off in one piece, or most of it will come off, leaving a backplate behind that needs to be unscrewed to remove it. | ||
If the whole lock comes off in one, there is a separate smaller backplate that holds the barrel in place. When the lock leaves a full size backplate in place, the baseplate holds both the barrel and the lock. | If the whole lock comes off in one, there is a separate smaller backplate that holds the barrel in place. When the lock leaves a full size backplate in place, the baseplate holds both the barrel and the lock. | ||
| − | + | ===Remove old barrel=== | |
| − | ==Remove old barrel== | ||
As you'll see, the lock barrel is held with 2 [[Screw#Snapoff_screws|snapoff screws]]. Remove these, and the barrel, the ring on the front, and the plate on the rear all come away. Reuse these screws if they're not wrecked, its easier than cutting the new ones to length. | As you'll see, the lock barrel is held with 2 [[Screw#Snapoff_screws|snapoff screws]]. Remove these, and the barrel, the ring on the front, and the plate on the rear all come away. Reuse these screws if they're not wrecked, its easier than cutting the new ones to length. | ||
| − | + | ===The new lock barrel=== | |
| − | ==The new lock barrel== | ||
They're standardised, so the main choices are brass or chrome finish, and hardened or unhardened pins. | They're standardised, so the main choices are brass or chrome finish, and hardened or unhardened pins. | ||
* minimum cost barrels are unhardened, and can be drilled open | * minimum cost barrels are unhardened, and can be drilled open | ||
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* hardened pin barrels can be drilled, but its more difficult, and can take a while, and several [[drill bit]]s. | * hardened pin barrels can be drilled, but its more difficult, and can take a while, and several [[drill bit]]s. | ||
* unhardened may be preferable for internal rooms & cupboards, a fair bit easier to remove if keys are ever lost. | * unhardened may be preferable for internal rooms & cupboards, a fair bit easier to remove if keys are ever lost. | ||
| + | |||
| + | New lock barrels always come with 2 snapoff screws, a front ring and a rear fixing plate in the pack. | ||
Its not best practice to have new locks, barrels or keys posted to you, the seller usually has your address, either from the delivery address or credit card details, and there are people that copy keys and misuse them. | Its not best practice to have new locks, barrels or keys posted to you, the seller usually has your address, either from the delivery address or credit card details, and there are people that copy keys and misuse them. | ||
| − | + | ===Fit new barrel=== | |
| − | ==Fit new barrel== | ||
How it fits in is fairly obvious, ring at the front, plate at the back. Get the new barrel in the right position, not rotated round out of place. There's usually a slight ring indentation in the door, sit the front ring in that to avoid a minor decorating mishap. Often the old front ring looks better than the new one, and on occasion the old rear plate is the only one that will sit flat enough. | How it fits in is fairly obvious, ring at the front, plate at the back. Get the new barrel in the right position, not rotated round out of place. There's usually a slight ring indentation in the door, sit the front ring in that to avoid a minor decorating mishap. Often the old front ring looks better than the new one, and on occasion the old rear plate is the only one that will sit flat enough. | ||
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The tongue of the new barrel needs to be cut to length. Mark on the tongue where it projects about half the depth of the lock, and cut it off there. Length needn't be precise. A hack[[saw]] works, but is slow and fiddly; bolt croppers or mini bolt croppers are very quick. | The tongue of the new barrel needs to be cut to length. Mark on the tongue where it projects about half the depth of the lock, and cut it off there. Length needn't be precise. A hack[[saw]] works, but is slow and fiddly; bolt croppers or mini bolt croppers are very quick. | ||
| − | + | ===Refit lock=== | |
| − | ==Refit lock== | ||
Just the reverse of removing it. | Just the reverse of removing it. | ||
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Issues sometimes encountered: | Issues sometimes encountered: | ||
| − | The new lock is too stiff to turn as far as is needed. If it turns in one direction ok, and opens the lock, no problem. If not, the cause is usually poor alignment between barrel and lock. This tends to give huge variation in stiffness as the key is turned. Slacken the lock barrel fixing and slide it sideways a fraction so it lines up better with the slot in the lock where the tongue goes, and retighten | + | ===Stiffness=== |
| + | The new lock is too stiff to turn as far as is needed. If it turns in one direction ok, and opens the lock, no problem. If not, the cause is usually poor alignment between barrel and lock. This tends to give huge variation in stiffness as the key is turned. Slacken the lock barrel fixing and slide it sideways a fraction so it lines up better with the slot in the lock where the tongue goes, and retighten. | ||
| + | If the amount of stiffness doesn't vary with key position, the fault is with the lock, not the barrel. Open, clean and grease the lock mechanism. Lock parts tend to pop out of place when opened, so probably some people aare better leaving it alone. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Oil]]ing the barrel is never the solution, and only causes staining of hands & clothing with dirty oil. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Screw won't tighten=== | ||
The lock [[screws]] won't tighten because the thread in the wood is stripped. Probably the simplest solution is to lightly [[hammer]] a matchstick into the hole in the wood door, and snap it off level. Or sometimes slightly fatter screws will fit and grip. Or if the screws are short, fit much longer ones. | The lock [[screws]] won't tighten because the thread in the wood is stripped. Probably the simplest solution is to lightly [[hammer]] a matchstick into the hole in the wood door, and snap it off level. Or sometimes slightly fatter screws will fit and grip. Or if the screws are short, fit much longer ones. | ||
| + | ===Lock won't sit flat=== | ||
Lock won't quite sit flat against the door. This happens when the rear plate that holds the lock barrel fouls the lock. Loosen this backplate, reposition slightly and tighten, or if necessary remove it and put the old one back on instead. | Lock won't quite sit flat against the door. This happens when the rear plate that holds the lock barrel fouls the lock. Loosen this backplate, reposition slightly and tighten, or if necessary remove it and put the old one back on instead. | ||
| + | ===Lock needs to accept old key=== | ||
In some situations you might need a new lock that takes the old key. Rekeying a lock barrel is a locksmith's job. | In some situations you might need a new lock that takes the old key. Rekeying a lock barrel is a locksmith's job. | ||
| − | Key needs waggling to turn | + | ===Key needs waggling=== |
| + | If the key needs waggling to turn, this is caused by a poorly cut key copy. It also happens on old lock barrels that have had a lot of use, and the mechanism is well worn. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Key doesn't insert smoothly=== | ||
| + | The key needs waggling to insert, or is stiff to insert. Some copied keys have a series of raised points between the pin landing areas as a result of the way they're cut. This can cause keys to not go in smoothly. The solution is to file the raised points on the key down - obviously the pin landing areas must not be filed down. | ||
Revision as of 13:10, 15 December 2011
Replace cylinder lock barrel
Its a mostly simple job to fit a new lock barrel. The lock itself is not replaced, just the barrel, which is bought separately.
Why replace
Apart from the obvious...
A new lock barrel is under £2 for a basic one, or £4-5 for one with hardened pins in 2011. So replacement is often cheaper than copying keys. New barrels usually come with 3 keys, sometimes 2.
When moving into a house, you've no idea who has keys. Its prudent to replace external lock barrels.
Some house insurance policies are invalid if a barrel with unhardened pins is used on an external door.
How to replace
Gain access
If you're locked out and can't get in any other way, drilling out the lock barrel is usually the easiest way to gain entry. Expect to ruin a few drill bits in the process. 4mm twist drills are good for the job, though if not careful more drill bits will be needed.
Remove lock
There are 2 ways cylinder locks are commonly fixed to doors. Remove the visible screwheads, and either the whole lock will come off in one piece, or most of it will come off, leaving a backplate behind that needs to be unscrewed to remove it.
If the whole lock comes off in one, there is a separate smaller backplate that holds the barrel in place. When the lock leaves a full size backplate in place, the baseplate holds both the barrel and the lock.
Remove old barrel
As you'll see, the lock barrel is held with 2 snapoff screws. Remove these, and the barrel, the ring on the front, and the plate on the rear all come away. Reuse these screws if they're not wrecked, its easier than cutting the new ones to length.
The new lock barrel
They're standardised, so the main choices are brass or chrome finish, and hardened or unhardened pins.
- minimum cost barrels are unhardened, and can be drilled open
- house insurance often requires hardened pins
- hardened pin barrels can be drilled, but its more difficult, and can take a while, and several drill bits.
- unhardened may be preferable for internal rooms & cupboards, a fair bit easier to remove if keys are ever lost.
New lock barrels always come with 2 snapoff screws, a front ring and a rear fixing plate in the pack.
Its not best practice to have new locks, barrels or keys posted to you, the seller usually has your address, either from the delivery address or credit card details, and there are people that copy keys and misuse them.
Fit new barrel
How it fits in is fairly obvious, ring at the front, plate at the back. Get the new barrel in the right position, not rotated round out of place. There's usually a slight ring indentation in the door, sit the front ring in that to avoid a minor decorating mishap. Often the old front ring looks better than the new one, and on occasion the old rear plate is the only one that will sit flat enough.
Reuse the old barrel fixing snapoff screws when possible, it avoids needing to cut the new ones. If they can't be reused, the new ones can be chopped or sawn at the indentations. Don't try to snap them by bending, a lot of these screws aren't hardened and will bend, ruining them instantly. if cutting screws, look at the cut end afterwards, and if any thread is distorted at the end, file the damaged bit of thread down.
The tongue of the new barrel needs to be cut to length. Mark on the tongue where it projects about half the depth of the lock, and cut it off there. Length needn't be precise. A hacksaw works, but is slow and fiddly; bolt croppers or mini bolt croppers are very quick.
Refit lock
Just the reverse of removing it.
Issues
Issues sometimes encountered:
Stiffness
The new lock is too stiff to turn as far as is needed. If it turns in one direction ok, and opens the lock, no problem. If not, the cause is usually poor alignment between barrel and lock. This tends to give huge variation in stiffness as the key is turned. Slacken the lock barrel fixing and slide it sideways a fraction so it lines up better with the slot in the lock where the tongue goes, and retighten.
If the amount of stiffness doesn't vary with key position, the fault is with the lock, not the barrel. Open, clean and grease the lock mechanism. Lock parts tend to pop out of place when opened, so probably some people aare better leaving it alone.
Oiling the barrel is never the solution, and only causes staining of hands & clothing with dirty oil.
Screw won't tighten
The lock screws won't tighten because the thread in the wood is stripped. Probably the simplest solution is to lightly hammer a matchstick into the hole in the wood door, and snap it off level. Or sometimes slightly fatter screws will fit and grip. Or if the screws are short, fit much longer ones.
Lock won't sit flat
Lock won't quite sit flat against the door. This happens when the rear plate that holds the lock barrel fouls the lock. Loosen this backplate, reposition slightly and tighten, or if necessary remove it and put the old one back on instead.
Lock needs to accept old key
In some situations you might need a new lock that takes the old key. Rekeying a lock barrel is a locksmith's job.
Key needs waggling
If the key needs waggling to turn, this is caused by a poorly cut key copy. It also happens on old lock barrels that have had a lot of use, and the mechanism is well worn.
Key doesn't insert smoothly
The key needs waggling to insert, or is stiff to insert. Some copied keys have a series of raised points between the pin landing areas as a result of the way they're cut. This can cause keys to not go in smoothly. The solution is to file the raised points on the key down - obviously the pin landing areas must not be filed down.