Difference between revisions of "Carpet"
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* doesn't need separate underlay, saving money | * doesn't need separate underlay, saving money | ||
* non-shrinking | * non-shrinking | ||
| − | * | + | * the backing disintegrates eventually |
* a layer of newspaper stops it sticking to the floor | * a layer of newspaper stops it sticking to the floor | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Felt=== | ||
| + | * a low cost backing | ||
| + | * has replaced foam rubber backing | ||
===Hessian=== | ===Hessian=== | ||
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===Woven plastic=== | ===Woven plastic=== | ||
| − | * Synthetic equivalents to hessian are unaffected by [[:Category:Cleaning|cleaning]] | + | * Synthetic equivalents to hessian are unaffected by [[:Category:Cleaning|cleaning]] & damp |
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | ===Plastic=== | + | ===Plastic sheet=== |
* Waterproof, found on [[:Category:Bathrooms|bathroom]] carpets | * Waterproof, found on [[:Category:Bathrooms|bathroom]] carpets | ||
===Bitumen=== | ===Bitumen=== | ||
| − | + | * Used for commercial carpet tiles. | |
| + | * Stiff, heavy & durable | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Backless=== | ||
| + | Sometimes seen at the bottom end of the market, these carpets have no visible backing. The pile is matted rather than tufted, and sticks together firmly. The author has no experience with these. | ||
| + | |||
==Pile materials== | ==Pile materials== | ||
| Line 40: | Line 46: | ||
===Synthetic=== | ===Synthetic=== | ||
| − | * Generates static, causing wear | + | * Generates static, causing wear. In exceptionally low RH conditions can produce mild shocks |
* Fairly impervious to staining | * Fairly impervious to staining | ||
* Good option for business premises | * Good option for business premises | ||
| Line 48: | Line 54: | ||
* Bleach-safe polypropylene fibre & bleach safe colouring | * Bleach-safe polypropylene fibre & bleach safe colouring | ||
* Good choice for maximum cleanability | * Good choice for maximum cleanability | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Identifying pile=== | ||
| + | There are 3 ways to identify pile material on an existing carpet. | ||
| + | * Natural fibres are all matt when held close to the eye, Synthetic fibres have shiny bits here & there when held close to the eye | ||
| + | * Natural fibres only give up about 50% of the water used when wet cleaning, synthetics give up around 90% of the water | ||
| + | * Bleach (somewhere inconspicuous) removes virtually all colour from all natural fibers, but has much less effect on synthetics. | ||
| Line 53: | Line 65: | ||
===Axminster & Wilton=== | ===Axminster & Wilton=== | ||
* Much used luxury carpet types. | * Much used luxury carpet types. | ||
| + | * Woven twist pile | ||
| + | * Pile much more resistant to flattening than cut pile types | ||
* These are manufacturing methods, not brand names, so may be made in any location. | * These are manufacturing methods, not brand names, so may be made in any location. | ||
| Line 62: | Line 76: | ||
===Cord=== | ===Cord=== | ||
| − | * | + | * robust low cost carpet type |
| + | * corrugated appearance | ||
* feels rough and stiff | * feels rough and stiff | ||
| − | |||
* mainly used in business premises | * mainly used in business premises | ||
| − | |||
===Carpet tiles=== | ===Carpet tiles=== | ||
* If one tile gets stained or damaged, its easily replaced. | * If one tile gets stained or damaged, its easily replaced. | ||
* Much used in business premises | * Much used in business premises | ||
| − | * | + | * Sticking down with tackifier makes for quick tile removal any time. |
===Shag=== | ===Shag=== | ||
| Line 110: | Line 123: | ||
=Carpet Stretching= | =Carpet Stretching= | ||
| − | This is one topic that tends to bring up opposing points of view at times, whether stretching is necessary or not. Lots of people lay carpet sucessfully without stretching it. | + | This is one topic that tends to bring up opposing points of view at times, whether stretching is necessary or not. Lots of people lay carpet sucessfully without stretching it. Slight stretch can help avoid risk of ripples occurring later. |
=Carpet and Downlighters= | =Carpet and Downlighters= | ||
Mixing [[Halogen Lighting|downlighting]] with carpets is a recipe for poor [[:Category:Energy Efficiency|energy efficiency]]. The darker the carpet, the worse the result. | Mixing [[Halogen Lighting|downlighting]] with carpets is a recipe for poor [[:Category:Energy Efficiency|energy efficiency]]. The darker the carpet, the worse the result. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | =Carpet & daylight levels= | ||
| + | If interior daylight is poor, changing from dark to light carpet can help. Fairly obvious, but it gets overlooked. | ||
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If the [[paint]] is water based and still wet, act right away and you should get a perfectly clean result. | If the [[paint]] is water based and still wet, act right away and you should get a perfectly clean result. | ||
* Mop it up wth paper towels or loo roll | * Mop it up wth paper towels or loo roll | ||
| + | * Scraping a few times with a scraper can get more emulsion out of the pile, making cloth cleanup faster | ||
* Half an hour with a cloth & plenty of clean water should see it looking like new. | * Half an hour with a cloth & plenty of clean water should see it looking like new. | ||
| Line 178: | Line 196: | ||
When scraping, its necessary to rotate the direction of scraping round so the carpet is scraped from all angles. Scraping over it in one or 2 directions isn't effective. What does in all directions mean? If you were to move yourself around the paint spot while you scraped, always scraping toward yourself, that would do it. | When scraping, its necessary to rotate the direction of scraping round so the carpet is scraped from all angles. Scraping over it in one or 2 directions isn't effective. What does in all directions mean? If you were to move yourself around the paint spot while you scraped, always scraping toward yourself, that would do it. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Occasionally this approach fails to break up hard lumps. If so, whack down on the lumps with the chisel for a bit until they break up. The plan is to slowly break them up, not to apply enough force to cut anything. | ||
| + | |||
=See Also= | =See Also= | ||
Revision as of 20:07, 25 September 2010
Carpet Types
Backing types
Foam rubber
- feels soft underfoot
- doesn't need separate underlay, saving money
- non-shrinking
- the backing disintegrates eventually
- a layer of newspaper stops it sticking to the floor
Felt
- a low cost backing
- has replaced foam rubber backing
Hessian
- Prone to shrink during cleaning
- Prone to rot in damp locations
- Such carpets benefit from underlay
Woven plastic
- Synthetic equivalents to hessian are unaffected by cleaning & damp
Plastic sheet
- Waterproof, found on bathroom carpets
Bitumen
- Used for commercial carpet tiles.
- Stiff, heavy & durable
Backless
Sometimes seen at the bottom end of the market, these carpets have no visible backing. The pile is matted rather than tufted, and sticks together firmly. The author has no experience with these.
Pile materials
Wool
- Generates static, causing wear
- Costs more and performs worse than wool/synthetic blend
- Soaks up stains
- A historic option
Wool/synthetic blend
- The right blend more or less eliminates static production, extending carpet life
- 70/30 and 80/20 are quality mixtures
- Best option for luxury carpets
Synthetic
- Generates static, causing wear. In exceptionally low RH conditions can produce mild shocks
- Fairly impervious to staining
- Good option for business premises
Bleachable
- 100% synthetic
- Bleach-safe polypropylene fibre & bleach safe colouring
- Good choice for maximum cleanability
Identifying pile
There are 3 ways to identify pile material on an existing carpet.
- Natural fibres are all matt when held close to the eye, Synthetic fibres have shiny bits here & there when held close to the eye
- Natural fibres only give up about 50% of the water used when wet cleaning, synthetics give up around 90% of the water
- Bleach (somewhere inconspicuous) removes virtually all colour from all natural fibers, but has much less effect on synthetics.
Pile production methods
Axminster & Wilton
- Much used luxury carpet types.
- Woven twist pile
- Pile much more resistant to flattening than cut pile types
- These are manufacturing methods, not brand names, so may be made in any location.
Cut pile
Carpets made by punching cut pile through the backing are much cheaper,
- don't last as long
- Very popular carpet type.
- The pile flattens worse than twisted pile types
Cord
- robust low cost carpet type
- corrugated appearance
- feels rough and stiff
- mainly used in business premises
Carpet tiles
- If one tile gets stained or damaged, its easily replaced.
- Much used in business premises
- Sticking down with tackifier makes for quick tile removal any time.
Shag
- Luxury carpet type popular in the 70s.
- Now superseded.
Flotex
A brand of fully waterproof antimicrobial carpets.
Quality
Quality of carpet depends on
- Pile density
- the more the better, generally
- Pile material mixture
- 70/30 and 80/20 are good for luxury carpets, or 100% bleachable polypropylene for cleanability
- How pile is attached to backing
- Woven piles like Axminster & Wilton are more durable than punched cut pile.
Buying carpet
New
Large discounts can be had from retailers.
Beware of the travelling sellers that show good quality specimens then fit cheaper carpet, claiming its what you ordered and paid for.
Used
Choose clean carpet only. Used carpet can be cleaned, but cleaning may fail to remove all stains, and general dirt can hide stains. Used carpets are available from giveaway schemes such as freecycle and others.
Offcuts
New limited size pieces left over from stocked budget carpets. Often no cheaper than buying the same carpet off the roll.
Economy Measures
If money is tight, using reasonably clean used carpets as underlay can leave enough money for better quality carpet. This has its pros and cons, and is discussed here. In short it supports the carpet less, and relatively thin weak carpets can wear faster as a result.
Carpet fitting
See Carpet laying
Carpet Stretching
This is one topic that tends to bring up opposing points of view at times, whether stretching is necessary or not. Lots of people lay carpet sucessfully without stretching it. Slight stretch can help avoid risk of ripples occurring later.
Carpet and Downlighters
Mixing downlighting with carpets is a recipe for poor energy efficiency. The darker the carpet, the worse the result.
Carpet & daylight levels
If interior daylight is poor, changing from dark to light carpet can help. Fairly obvious, but it gets overlooked.
Carpet in Vehicles
- Vehicle carpet is prone to condensation
- Hessian backing does not last as well when damp is enountered, but is fine if it stays dry.
- Synthetic pile & backing is most tolerant of damp.
- Bathroom carpet is the domestic type closest to car carpets. Its waterproof.
- The author doesn't know if original vehicle carpets have any fire retardants added to improve safety.
Carpet in Bathrooms
Unpopular due to hygiene issues
If you want bathroom carpet, a carpet cleaner would be a good idea too.
Pick a non-shrink backing
Waterproof backing is best for suspended timber floors. A permeable backing is best for historic masonry floors with no dpc, as it permits evaporation from the floor.
Carpet Cleaning
See the Full FAQ
Repair & Maintenance
Areas of flattened pile
- Spray with water.
- Brush vigorously until pile stands up.
- Leave to dry
Fraying or shedding edges
To stop deterioration
- hoover clean
- cut away stragglers
- apply latex glue to backing, eg Copydex.
PVA also works, but dries semi-rigid, so must be kept to the backing and base of pile only to maintain a soft feel for bare feet. PVA can make the carpet feel stiff at first, but it softens in use.
To repair
- Cut out a rectangle where damaged
- Cut a replacement piece of carpet from somewhere inconspicuous, eg under a sofa (or of course from stored spare carpet if you have some)
- Align the lay of the pile of the new patch with the carpet
- Fix patch to trimmed damaged area using carpet tape
- Or glue patch in place using latex
- Apply latex to all cut edges to prevent fraying.
- If you don't want the carpet to stick to the floor or underlay, put a piece of cloth flat under the cutout hole, gluing it in place, and glue the new patch to it.
Paint on carpet
Wet paint
If the paint is water based and still wet, act right away and you should get a perfectly clean result.
- Mop it up wth paper towels or loo roll
- Scraping a few times with a scraper can get more emulsion out of the pile, making cloth cleanup faster
- Half an hour with a cloth & plenty of clean water should see it looking like new.
Dry paint
Spots of dried emulsion can be removed with a chisel. With this method its possible to remove lots of paint spots and leave the carpet looking like new.
Simply scrape the chisel over the paint spot in the direction shown:
// // ---> scrape it this way ---> |/
When scraping, its necessary to rotate the direction of scraping round so the carpet is scraped from all angles. Scraping over it in one or 2 directions isn't effective. What does in all directions mean? If you were to move yourself around the paint spot while you scraped, always scraping toward yourself, that would do it.
Occasionally this approach fails to break up hard lumps. If so, whack down on the lumps with the chisel for a bit until they break up. The plan is to slowly break them up, not to apply enough force to cut anything.
See Also
- Carpet Cleaning FAQ
- Carpet cleaning thread on ukdiy
- Underlay review
- Wiki Contents
- Wiki Subject Categories